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[TR] Mt. Baker - Coleman Headwall 05/30/2019

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Trip: Mt. Baker - Coleman Headwall

Trip Date: 05/30/2019

Trip Report:


Trip dates: 5/30 - 5/31
Party size: 2


Met couple parties did NR with good conditions feedback. We camped at ~6525ft on the way to NR with a clear view of our right side route. We were the only party camping in that area. We can see boot path going towards the base of our climbing route, but just up to the last crevasse close to Roman Nose and it was turning left.

We started our approach to the base of the climb following boot path and latter we were on our own. Met a family of crevasse around, like we were on some kind of an island. We had to set up a belay while one of us jump over, otherwise approach to base of the climb was navigating around few other crevasses.

Our climb started crossing a bergschrund on the right of the big alpine ice walls that was having a nice bridge. After crossing, we went up straight on a mix terrain of snow & ice until we got another bergschrund and a vertical ice of ~7ft on the other side. The bridge was a block of ice ~2.5ft in length and ~1ft in width and the narrow gaps around. We crossed setting up a pitch with 2 pickets and 2 ice crews. We got semi soft snow above the ice wall, we were able to get over the wall. We continued going straight up close to the rock and went on right side, continued going up weaving around the rock until the only snow exit was on the left. We went on the left and continued going up and looking for a way to go over right side between rock bands. Once we got our way to the right side, we continued traversing and going up the slope, got on the ridge and to The Summit!

We put on 2 pitches, the 2nd pitch was just with pickets. We simul-climbed the climb otherwise until little after we gain the ridge. The whole climbing route was a fun sustained steep! 

Descending Coleman Deming route was postholing. There are 3 easily visible crevasses on the route. Glissade was fun.

It was a great day to seldom climb this beautiful Coleman Headwall route.


Gear Notes:
Used 2 ice screws, 4 pickets, 2 ice tools, 60m 8mm single and standard glacier travel gear.

Approach Notes:
Trail is clear of trees. Snow on trail starts little after toilet & camp signs.







Edited by Hardik
Pictures uploaded.
  • Rawk on! 4

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