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dberdinka

Last Ascents in the Cascades

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Drew:  Where was your first picture taken?  It looks like a road or tracks down near the shoreline...

Follow Up Question: In your experience, how much of the recent increase (seemingly) in mass wasting do you feel can be directly attributed to climate change?

 

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First pic is Chehalis Lake slide. That's the old FSR. Now you have to detour around via West Harrison and Mystery. An extra 15 km. Even more if crossing over Bardean or something.

Follow up: hard to say. The only published study locally is from the Alaska/BC border. I think it's having more of an effect in more glaciated areas. I don't think glacial retreat is having much effect in the North Cascades because there really just aren't many glaciers here relative to the Coast Mts. I mean the Garibaldi Neve has more ice than all of the North Cascades put together. Meager, Joffre, Whymper Dome, and James Turner all have a deglaciation component. Tipella and Chehalis don't.

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The Blueberry Route on Exfo Dome has been close to falling off below the crux pitch for a couple years. 3:00 Rock recently had a big chunk fall off Superfly pitch as well as a big 'un above Revolver a couple years ago.

Knitting is looking better and better.

 

MH

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7 hours ago, hanman said:

The Blueberry Route on Exfo Dome has been close to falling off below the crux pitch for a couple years. 3:00 Rock recently had a big chunk fall off Superfly pitch as well as a big 'un above Revolver a couple years ago.

Knitting is looking better and better.

 

MH

maybe you can knit a big net to catch all those falling slabs.

 

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16 hours ago, hanman said:

The Blueberry Route on Exfo Dome has been close to falling off below the crux pitch for a couple years. 3:00 Rock recently had a big chunk fall off Superfly pitch as well as a big 'un above Revolver a couple years ago.

Knitting is looking better and better.

 

MH

Have you noticed any seasonal pattern with the rockfall? The story I've been telling myself is that  most of the "exfoliation" out there happens when things start to heat up in the spring. Water percolates in to the cracks in the winter, repeated freeze thaw cycles lead to frost-jacking, and when the melt kicks in during the spring the ice-shrinkage plus lubrication provided by the liquid water plus gravity equals big-time rockfall followed by a quieter period once the annual shed is over and done with.

Does this story I've been telling myself fit in with what you observed or is this just a baseless fantasy that I've cooked up?

 

 

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Last pitch of Curious Cube (my avatar!) at Static Point.  Big ol' flake peeled off like 15 years ago.  Perhaps i have the last ascent! :yeti2:

Maybe all of Static Point is lost to the ages.  Anybody ever go out there any more?

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On 6/14/2019 at 3:27 PM, chucK said:

Anybody ever go out there any more?

Some folks have been doing work on the hardware up there lately. Give it some time and some of those routes should be all shiny and clean again.

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BTW, C/D Glacier is done for the season. A massive crevasse opened, basically making it impossible to cross safely. 

 

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6 hours ago, glassgowkiss said:

BTW, C/D Glacier is done for the season. A massive crevasse opened, basically making it impossible to cross safely. 

 

From what I heard, there is a walk around that monster crack but it puts you under some hanging ice fall in the moustache area.   Like 10 minutes in the possible firing line.  Let the buyer beware if they choose that way.

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3 hours ago, Whatcomboy said:

C/D Glacier? you talking Coleman Deming? Sorry if I'm ignorant of climbing acronym lingo.

Yes- Coleman Deming

5 hours ago, genepires said:

From what I heard, there is a walk around that monster crack but it puts you under some hanging ice fall in the moustache area.   Like 10 minutes in the possible firing line.  Let the buyer beware if they choose that way.

Exactly, it will be 20-30 min in the bowling alley. 

 

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maybe someone can make it spicy by throwing a ladder over that big crack.  then we can get all everest style points.

 

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1 hour ago, genepires said:

maybe someone can make it spicy by throwing a ladder over that big crack.  then we can get all everest style points.

 

Or just jump across it like this 

 

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5 hours ago, genepires said:

maybe someone can make it spicy by throwing a ladder over that big crack.  then we can get all everest style points.

 

or even better... ('cause it'sfor ealz...) I think this guy is a b'ham local...

 

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21 hours ago, Rad said:

Or just jump across it like this 

 

I think carrying nitro is illegal in public lands.  makes great stove fuel though.

 

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