slothrop Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 Hey all you Index wall climbers! I'm recuperating from an injury but am itchin' to climb stuff. My bum foot won't let me make the hike in to do the first winter ascent of the south face of Forbidden, so I want to learn to aid climb while the sun shines tomorrow. What are some good first aid routes to try at Index? I was thinking about City Park, since it's got a bolt ladder start and looks like it's just one crack to the top (correct me if I'm wrong). I can rustle up some aiders and whatnot, but I don't have any fancy aid gear, like offset cams, WC Zeros, skyhooks, or teeny tiny nuts. Any suggestions for an aid route that can be done with several standard alpine racks' worth of gear? Oh, and I'd prefer to do clean aid since I don't want someone to shoot me off the wall if I get off route and start nailing some free climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 sloth you can pretty much up aid up anything clean. if there is no one around aid godzilla...bring two rope... this way yu can start with the bolt ladder and then move into the the good stuff...you will need only a standard rack also jap gardens.. also thin fingers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 Yeah, City Park is pretty easy with standard nuts and small cams, like tcu's. Bring lots of nuts. It's also very safe because it overhangs a bit and there isn't much to hit. Clipping the first bolt may be the crux. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 Yeah, City Park is pretty easy with standard nuts and small cams, like tcu's. Bring lots of nuts. It's also very safe because it overhangs a bit and there isn't much to hit. Clipping the first bolt may be the crux. CITY PARK IS GHEY THOUGH.. and played out...maybe if you were to cam hook to the top without gear it might lead to something...but seriously though.....when was thre last time you climbed a 100ft #4 stopper crack?????? i say do something with more variables, but still easy...just used to it ALL, not just one dumb move over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over......etc!!!!!! lamebone brak outta that same ole rut boyee! and find some cool as shit hidden!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted February 6, 2003 Author Share Posted February 6, 2003 Word. Thanks for the suggestions. Thin Fingers sounds good. But what about getting into the hand crack after the first section? I can't remember if you can aid that, or just have to make the step across from the little pedestal on the right. Whatever, I'll just see how it goes. I was hoping to get on an unpopular free route (or a route that's usually just aided) so I won't make everyone wait for hours as I bumble up the wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 6, 2003 Share Posted February 6, 2003 Word. Thanks for the suggestions. Thin Fingers sounds good. But what about getting into the hand crack after the first section? I can't remember if you can aid that, or just have to make the step across from the little pedestal on the right. Whatever, I'll just see how it goes. I was hoping to get on an unpopular free route (or a route that usually just aided) so I won't make everyone wait for hours as I bumble up the wall. some smaller nutz, i wanna say either a #4 or #3 will get you into the hand crack!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 A cam hook will work better to get into the hand crack. Pick one up at Feathered Friends for $9 on your way there. It'll come in handy on many of the lower town wall pitches unless you either do a lot of back cleaning or have 2-3 sets of everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted February 7, 2003 Share Posted February 7, 2003 Sloth, Narrow Arrow is a good one. And the one just to the left of Jap Gardens is as well (can't remember the name). The 5.11 crack up at Toxic Shock would be good also. Erik, you can eat my Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted February 8, 2003 Author Share Posted February 8, 2003 Fun times at Index today! We did Thin Fingers and damn if it wasn't scary to be hanging by two lobes of a green Alien. chucK joined us and did laps on Godzilla while I tangled in my aiders. I got so excited about reaching the ledge that I did the mantel, forgot to unclip my etriers, and had to downclimb to unfuck myself. Good fun. Index rocks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
North_by_Northwest Posted February 8, 2003 Share Posted February 8, 2003 Nice work, man. Don't you just love switching from aid to free? You gonna be up for a longer aid route at Index soon? Green Dragon maybe? Rock On. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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