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grandpa

Looking for specific harness...

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My favorite harness, by far, is the Metolius "Safe Tech" with the two belay loops and the double back style waist belt buckle. But, they now only supply that harness with the newer, "speed buckle". I really dislike those, and it seems everyone is going to that style, so it appears that I'm outta luck. (%$#@#! lawyers, I suspect). 

Searching the 'net tonight (so far) has resulted in Ø (zero) harnesses with that style buckle. Do any of you know of a manufacturer that still uses this buckle? 

Second question is, somewhere recently I saw/read of a harness that has a small loop sewn into the leg harness strap, designed to clip a 'biner into for use with a prussik or klemheist autoblock. Do any of you know which one this might be. I'll keep searching, but haven't found it (yet). 

Thanks, all...

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Black diamond Bod and Alpine Bod appear to use the old style buckle.

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7 hours ago, Wildearth said:

Gearexpress has a couple of models of the "Safe Tech".http://www.gearexpress.com/metolius-safe-tech-mens-deluxe-harness.html

Thank you! I have not heard of this company. I just wrote to them to confirm, and then will place an order if it's the old style buckle. The way things are going, I must be the only guy out there that likes this buckle arrangement.

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29 minutes ago, grandpa said:

Thank you! I have not heard of this company. I just wrote to them to confirm, and then will place an order if it's the old style buckle. The way things are going, I must be the only guy out there that likes this buckle arrangement.

Most welcome! Hope you find it.  Cheers!

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if that does not pan out, try misty mountain harness.  I heard they can customize for a reasonable price.

 

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isn't the only difference between speed buckle and the buckle you speak of that the end of the webbing is sewn over to prevent it from being unthreaded?  KNIFE woudl fix that.  :)

 

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1 hour ago, genepires said:

isn't the only difference between speed buckle and the buckle you speak of that the end of the webbing is sewn over to prevent it from being unthreaded?  KNIFE woudl fix that.  :)

 

No, the "double back" style has a one-piece buckle, and the end of the webbing must be threaded back over itself every time. The "speed buckle" style has a two-piece buckle and the webbing is fixed in place, and has the webbing sewn over as you mentioned. I've used both and far prefer the old style, but I'm guessing the manufacturers are catering to the "most inattentive among us" by going with the "speed buckle". I find the old style to be easier to set and adjust, but I do know that more attention in "harnessing up" is imperative! 

 

Thanks all, for the replies!

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I appreciate your preference for the older style harness buckle but I've never really gotten along well with them and even recently retired a BD couliour harness specifically because it has that style buckle.  There's an interesting rant from Will Gadd about replacing harnesses just to update to the newer style.

https://gripped.com/gear/will-gadds-harness-tip-save-lives/

For the other comment about harnesses with a loop just for an autoblock on the leg loop, I'd be surprised if you find one.  Petzl puts a loop on the leg loops of their alpine harnesses to rack a single ice screw for crevasse rescue but I don't think it's load rated for an autoblock.  At best, putting your autoblock on your leg loop is good for a third hand but is not a redundant back up for your rappel device/belay loop/main rappel carabiner.  Current best practice is to extend your rappel device away from your belay loop and then use your belay loop for your autoblock in order to have a redundant full strength back up in case you have a failure somewhere else in your rappel system.  

You probably know all this and have preferences based on lots of experience but I thought it would be helpful to have this information here just in case someone with less experience finds this thread.

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" putting your autoblock on your leg loop is good for a third hand but is not a redundant back up for your rappel device/belay loop/main rappel carabiner "

the loop for autoblock does not need to be anywhere as strong as a belay loop.  We are talking about the small prussik that backs up the brake hand I assume.   Basically it needs to be as strong as your hand grip is.  the autoblock replaces the hand as a way to apply braking force to the rappel device.

I wish my grip strength was in excess of 15Kn pulling force.

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to add to the gripped article mentioned above, I had a NED moment due to not fully doubling back the harness.  On a multipitch, I had to sit on some gear during the first pitch of the climb and at the top belay anchor, noticed that my harness was not doubled back.  I guess that body weight was low enough for the harness to stay on but I know that a leader fall would have been death. If it would have been a standard craggin situation, it may have failed on being lowered also.

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3 hours ago, genepires said:

" putting your autoblock on your leg loop is good for a third hand but is not a redundant back up for your rappel device/belay loop/main rappel carabiner "

the loop for autoblock does not need to be anywhere as strong as a belay loop.  We are talking about the small prussik that backs up the brake hand I assume.   Basically it needs to be as strong as your hand grip is.  the autoblock replaces the hand as a way to apply braking force to the rappel device.

I wish my grip strength was in excess of 15Kn pulling force.

So Gene: what's the "best" way to back up a rappel? prussik above the belay device? autolocking device above the belay device? Rappel deaths seem to have good "gear" solutions if you know the right gear and configuration.

 

Dave

 

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5 hours ago, max said:

So Gene: what's the "best" way to back up a rappel? prussik above the belay device? autolocking device above the belay device? Rappel deaths seem to have good "gear" solutions if you know the right gear and configuration.

 

Dave

 

I really dig the new 'spider rappel' set up.  Girth hitch a double length 9/16" sling through your harness (leg loops and waist strap NOT the belay loop).  Tie an overhand knot in the middle.  A small locking biner goes at the end to clip into the belay while you are setting up the rappel.  Your rappel biner and device is clipped through the short loop formed by the knot.  Set up the ropes through the rappel device.  Clip a biner to the belay loop and clip the autoblock/prusik to this biner.   There are some good videos online demonstrating this technique, but I like it because it is the chicken sling, rappel device, and auto block all together and it is stronger as the autoblock is clipped to the belay loop. BTW, I agree wit the new speed buckles.  Don't likle them.  I tie a knot in the tail, just to make sure and noticed other climbers do this as well.

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