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Winter climbing in Bend?


Tom MacD

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Hi all - I'm looking for recommendations on some excursions during a day off from a family ski trip to Mt. Bachelor.  I plan on checking in with the Timberline Guides as well when I arrive, but wanted to see if some of you locals had some recommendations for fun single-day outings in the area (and with relatively moderate approaches).  My goal is to get more experience on crampons and steep snow and mixed climbs, and being relatively new to winter climbing & mountaineering, I'm looking for moderate to easy routes.  Curious to hear what's available (so far Broken Top seems to be the main choice).  I'll be in Bend for a week, arriving on the 29th of December.  Thanks!

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Very, very seldom there were any good conditions at this time of the year (lived there for 9 years in the 90's). Back in 92 or 93, during one of the low snow years, managed to romp up North Sister, which was a fun scramble. However usually the best conditions were either during Fall or during Spring (freeze/thaw). Paulina Falls can provide some entertainment on steeper ice (mostly TR). I remember doing some WI3 pitches on Broken Top, but again- they usually form in early Spring from freeze/thaw.  

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I hear Steve House dry-tooled Picnic Lunch Wall before he moved to Colorado (it hadn't yet been free climbed, but now goes at 5.12+ R). Also, a certain mountain guide claims to have dry tooled Churning in the Wake (13a). Personally, I think as long as you stay off of popular climbs no one would care, but we have a couple other crags in the region that offer dry-tooling in a colder and less-popular location.

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