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glassgowkiss

Unrepeated routes in N Cascades (winter type)

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Routes like Intravenous on Chiwawa, It Ain't over Motherfuckers on Pyramid (plus another one on East Face of Pyramid) need desperately second ascents. Hey wankers- wake up! 

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Please!! how about sombody repeating the North Norweigen Buttress route? 1985 it was put up! If that was in french alps it would been done dozens of times. I say this sitting at my comfy desk in my warm room. :hubba_hubba:  Or do the FWA of it?

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Winter routes!

Sloan's W Face has still never been climbed in winter...nor Three Fingers' NE Face. NE butt Jberg needs a 3rd winter ascent. The sick gully on Whitehorse! Laps on Snoqualmie! No shortage of modern winter routes to go around...

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Three Fingers NE face has been done in winter, although the existing route is in the line of fire from a hanging snowfield. Still I'd probably head up there if conditions lined up. That whole valley is amazing.

That W face of Sloan though....sweet. @Marcus Russi you had a decent go at it. Maybe next time.

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Nothin' says hasbeen chestbeating like posting about how long it's been since you put up a route with no repeats since.

Maybe your route just sucked.

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4 hours ago, John Douglass said:

Three Fingers NE face has been done in winter, although the existing route is in the line of fire from a hanging snowfield. Still I'd probably head up there if conditions lined up. That whole valley is amazing.

That W face of Sloan though....sweet. @Marcus Russi you had a decent go at it. Maybe next time.

My bad, I meant the E Face of Three Fingers, as pictured here.

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22 hours ago, G-spotter said:

Maybe your route just sucked.

Maybe you should ask Colin if the route on Chiwawa sucked or not. From the pics I have seen it is pretty unique and very classy, yet unrepeated after all these years. If it's a low snow winter, it might be a year for it. 

 

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15 hours ago, glassgowkiss said:

Maybe you should ask Colin if the route on Chiwawa sucked or not. From the pics I have seen it is pretty unique and very classy, yet unrepeated after all these years. If it's a low snow winter, it might be a year for it. 

 

the new more mature Bob taking the high route.  oh times they be changin'  :)

 

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I recall, Shuksan's Hanging Glacier hasn't been climbed in winter, but I might be wrong.

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7 hours ago, Off_White said:

Oh, sorry boss, missed your instructions. 

 

I did not mean like that. It might be one of these low snow winters, with good potential for winter alpine/mix, and these routes are unrepeated. Probably the route you posted would be pretty sketch when covered in snow, as probably gear opportunities would be limited. 

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I just thought you'd like being called "boss", but I thought it appropriate to keep on topic so I took it down. :D  It wouldn't make a great winter route, it's a long ways in and more of an arete. Pro opportunities in the summer were just fine, and the rock wasn't very chossy, but it didn't seem like it had the kind of features that would ice up nicely and provide any lovely mixed lines. It's a long long ways in during winter when the highway is closed, and lots of avalanche terrain to get there. I'll toss it up again when some more summerish "unrepeated climbs" thread comes along. 

 

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Are routes on North/East side of Slesse repeated? Heart of Darkness is not, but what about N Face Couloir? Also Mark climbed a route on Cheam, which is moderate in grade, don't think it's repeated. 

 

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1 hour ago, glassgowkiss said:

Are routes on North/East side of Slesse repeated? Heart of Darkness is not, but what about N Face Couloir? Also Mark climbed a route on Cheam, which is moderate in grade, don't think it's repeated. 

 

You need to pay more attention dude. N Face Couloir gets lapped. Maybe not weekly though.

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In terms of unrepeated routes, iirc, Buckshot and Wild Game on Buck NF have no repeats? And those are big, not like Intravenous which while looking cool is only a couple pitches long?

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On ‎11‎/‎6‎/‎2018 at 1:40 PM, Marcus Russi said:

Winter routes!

Sloan's W Face has still never been climbed in winter...nor Three Fingers' NE Face. NE butt Jberg needs a 3rd winter ascent. The sick gully on Whitehorse! Laps on Snoqualmie! No shortage of modern winter routes to go around...

In a normal snow winter you'll likely have to ski in for 15+ miles to the summer trailhead or have a snowmobile. Kinda too bad as it looks like some good winter climbing. Or think of it as a good thing being so remote. 

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