Jump to content

[TR] Johannesburg - NE Rib 1957 10/13/2018


dave schultz

Recommended Posts

Trip: Johannesburg - NE Rib 1957

Trip Date: 13-14 October 2018

Trip Report:

 

started 715 Sat AM from the parking lot.  

 

took the lowest start posible, scrambling a few hundred feet before a 100m roped pitch into the trees.  

lots of unroped climbing before realizing we were too far right.  we did another roped pitch thinking we'd be out - wrong.  a single 30m rappel down and skiers right put us back in business.   

a long stretch of unroped climbing into a gullet.  roped back up for a few of the moves and that deposited up on the main ridge's shoulder.  this was the large climbers right trend in the topos.  

lots of steep vegetated climbing and steep exposed climbing brought us to a short (10m) knife edge ridge crossing - officially out of the shit.   this is where you could drop into the gulley to climb up to the bivy or stay on the rope.  gulley obviously looked nasty in October.

we scrambled another short distance to where we needed a rope. either the ugly offwidth or the steep face up and right.  not entirely sure if the face is what others had chosen, but it's what we opted for.  it was a little hard down low, but opened up nicely.  we hauled packs on this particular pitch.  

from that beltway we were a 150m pitch then a 45m pitch to the bivy site.  arrived around 530pm - just under 10 hrs on the route.  

no running water for us, so we went ultraconservative with fuel only melting water and saving some fuel just in case.  we were treated with an awesome sunset and sunrise. we were nestled between the snow and the rock and stayed protected from the wind.  

next morning we were moving by 745am and summited around 920am.  glacier was very simple all things considered.  snow arete was very cool and truly unique. 

started to descent around 10am, opting to downclimb vs rappel.  some serious exposure on sometimes pretty delicate climbing.  we were pretty close to the top, only dropping to maybe 100 feet below occasionally and not for very long.  we reached the main descent around noon.  

on the main descent we made one anchor for a belayed downclimb relatively high up, then lots of downclimbing snow and rock until an obvious rappel station.  this was a real rope stretcher (full 30m) to a subtle ledge skiers left of running water, we loaded about 1.5 liters knowing we'd get more soon - it was euphoric to get nice cold water.  

more snow and rock brought us to a second obvious station, going skiers left.  another 30m with some downclimbing and we were onto a broad apron.  

traversing skiers left, going more directly to C-J Col, we found three more rap stations, plus a lot of downclimbing.  we reached the col around 230pm.  we were moving quite slow.  

after quickly adjusting layers we were off to Doug's direct and searching for water.  we were at the top around 5pm and made fast work down to the 6k foot level.  

here is where were made our only route finding mistakes: dropping too low too early twice.  this cost us probably a at least an hour.  we then got back on track and were to cascade pass by 8pm and the TH by 930pm.

all in all, full value route that was surprisingly straightforward.  I'd do it again.

Gear Notes:
single rack to 3in was nice to have,  60m rope was shortest we would have wanted

Approach Notes:
short, or long, depending on your perspective

20181014_152730.jpg

20181013_183933.jpg

20181014_073854.jpg

20181014_074052.jpg

20181013_145630.jpg

20181014_074059.jpg

20181013_163347(0).jpg

20181014_072553.jpg

20181014_073849.jpg

20181013_074115.jpg

Edited by dave schultz
pics
  • Like 2
  • Snaffled 1
  • Rawk on! 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice write up, Dave. Also, at least we know I had that picket up until the last snow arete photo was taken...

 

Some more photos:

 

Typical 'Schwackin

IMG_20181013_091107.thumb.jpg.fb18bee0d1e9758dc27a05f82ede33ec.jpg

 

View from the bivy

5bc8a602bb189_IMG_20181013_172643-PANO(1).thumb.jpg.373378100e5ea5f5eea1d96c966fedbc.jpg

 

Snow arete:

IMG_20181014_073820.thumb.jpg.6b7f739e057e914a708c2f6107c4d66d.jpg

 

"Your best option is probably to jump into the moat"

IMG_20181014_090842.thumb.jpg.4ec9ef84f6ed85bc0e8bea4cbfb77bf7.jpg

 

Traversing a hanging glacier on the downclimb

IMG_20181014_112326.thumb.jpg.5c8e31e073d9e7bc412b426236444ea8.jpg

 

More downclimbing

5bc8a6071250b_IMG_20181014_102733(1).thumb.jpg.dc0bcbfa75dd6ac52b9f2c957f79abb8.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Rawk on! 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...