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Longshanks

[TR] Goode Mountain - Northeast Buttress From the West 07/10/2018

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Trip: Goode Mountain - Northeast Buttress From the West

Trip Date: 07/10/2018

Trip Report:

http://goacrophile.blogspot.com/2018/08/goode-ne-buttress-78-713-2018.htmli-WPLs76m-4K.jpg

Gear Notes:
Rack: Nuts and tricams, single BD C4 from 0.4-2, BD X4s 0.1-0.3; 12 alpine draws and 4 long slings. Rope: Single half rope (60 m), doubled over for the rick climbing. Ice: Crampons, one ice screw, and one picket each. Footwear: mountain boots – I never wished for rock shoes, but this is a personal preference. I know many folks who've used rock shoes on this climb, and been glad to have them. Shelter: we used an XPED BIVYBAG DUO UL as our "tent" with two pickets lashed together as the pole. 300g of useful shelter. It works, but it's pretty miserable to be trapped inside of during a rain storm. We used every piece of gear we brought, except the ice screw. You probably don't need the pickets unless you intend to descend via the Goode-Stormking col, or if you do AND are comfortable on exposed 45-50 degree snow without protection.

Approach Notes:
Park Creek Trail: - A little brushy in places, with a few downed trees closer to the junction with Stehekian valley road. Not bad at all. The Goode climbers trail that connects Park Creek trail to the basin below Goode's SW face: - The old track is right in the middle of the 2015 burn zone, and is mostly gone. You can still pick up bits of it along the rib-crest just up-valley from the major stream crossing, which is helpful. The fire seems to have petered out above 6000', and the track up through the cliff bands between 6200 and 7200 is still there. Goode-Stormking col: -It appears that the rappel route most climbers are using is not the right one. There are about a dozen slings wrapped around a large but rotten horn at the lowest point of the col, with a boot track leading to it. Not only is the horn suspect, but the rappel line is horribly dangerous: a long vertical-to-overhanging line with extremely loose sharp rock. Searching up and right (closer to Goode) I found a disused piton and nut anchor in solid rock, that provided an easy, safe 10 m rap to the snow. Goode, SW Couloir descent: Descending with one 60 m rope can be done quite safely. The block on the sloping ledge "at 70 feet" that Beckey describes in CAG Vol 2. (and which was there as late as 2008) is gone. Instead, a solid horn is found at 100'. Altogether a better anchor.
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