Jump to content

Latok I North Ridge Rescue?


Choada_Boy

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 13
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I remember a similar thing a bunch of years ago, on Nanga Parpat’s Rupal Face. 

I watched this one play out for the last week or so, on mountain.ru. I also figured he was a goner, bur still held out hope, until late last night.  I got chills down my spine when they posted: “Saved!”

Russian climbers are hard dudes, though, so I am not too surprised. They almost summited, again, this was their second attempt. His partner fell with most of their gear. F#ck that!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow. I'd also read the accounts from this past weekend and guessed that he was toast. So great to hear a happy ending in the mountains. Sounds like he could have been torn apart like a medieval tortue rack victim if the anchor had been any stronger.

Phew! 

Maybe the mountain spirits are telling him to take up golf...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Choada_Boy said:

I remember a similar thing a bunch of years ago, on Nanga Parpat’s Rupal Face. 

I watched this one play out for the last week or so, on mountain.ru. I also figured he was a goner, bur still held out hope, until late last night.  I got chills down my spine when they posted: “Saved!”

Russian climbers are hard dudes, though, so I am not too surprised. They almost summited, again, this was their second attempt. His partner fell with most of their gear. F#ck that!

 

So is it true they were using dulfersitz because a rappel device was too heavy to carry?   Seems a bit unreasonable to expect someone to risk their neck to save you when you cut your margins that thin.   And then to leave yourself anchored to both chopper and wall.  Yikes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Taken from AAI:

There are a few mental tools that we use when we instruct people how to climb safer and better. One of these is the use of acronyms to remember the components of safe anchor systems. Fortunately, these are becoming part of the average climber's vocabulary. The three that are most commonly used are SERENE + ERNEST + HELICOPTER. Here's what they stand for:

Solid (or strong)
Equalized
Redundant
Efficient
No
Extension

+


Equalized
Redunant
No
Extension
Solid (or strong)
Timely

+

Helicopter-proof

Edited by layton
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...