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[TR] Bonanza Peak - Mary Green Glacier 07/22/2018

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Trip: Bonanza Peak - Mary Green Glacier

Trip Date: 07/22/2018

Trip Report:


Bonanza has been on my list for a couple of years, and I was so happy to find two smart, fun, competent human beings that wanted to check it out, too. There are lots of trip reports and beta and route descriptions everywhere, but this was an amazing trip! I want to share photos :) and inform you that the glacier/bergshrund/moat is still very good to go (or was a few days ago)!


One thing that made this climb so great was that our party was three women; for no specific reason, I had only climbed with dudes or mixed parties before. I really enjoyed the fun and collaborative atmosphere of this trip ^_^

C and I got over to Lake Chelan on Saturday morning and dodged swarms of cyclists from the CHELANMAN. Z showed up just in the nick of time for us to get on the Lady II at Fields Point Landing and head uplake. Met one another party headed for Bonanza, and they informed us of two other parties heading up (!). Well, that number of people was a little unexpected...(we later found out it was just one group of five).

Got to Lucerne and got on the Holden bus to get up to Holden Village. What an interesting place! Read about it here: http://www.holdenvillage.org/ Sort of a spiritual commune learning retreat that was bought by the Lutheran church in 1960 (I think) from a copper mining company that had first developed it and shipped a bunch of copper out to Tacoma (!)


Hiked out to Holden Lake where Z and I took a refreshing dip (objective #1 complete) and then applied the DEET in good amounts. Getting up from the lake to the talus field below Holden Pass was not too bad, with just a minimal amount of schwacking. Stay between the swampy bits and the alder and trees. The views of the glacier (giant icefall and crevasses) and the waterfall slabs everywhere were amazing....


Holden Pass still has a snow patch (otherwise dry) but there's the creek coming down from part of the glacier you can fill up at right before the Pass. During the night, we heard the 5 people coming down; they approached, climbed,imageproxy.php?img=&key=438e3321a8b92b51 and went back to Holden in the same push :ooo: They have a TR on NWHikers...

We got going around 5:20 AM the next morning. The waterfall slabs were fine, the glacier was in great shape with good snow conditions and a smart bootpack, the snow finger felt fine, the step from the snow to the rock was easy, and about 3 hours from the pass, we were headed up the rock.

20180722_073020.thumb.jpg.2c476652791f6ec02ec3a8e89ae51e10.jpg  20180722_081549.thumb.jpg.bf17ad1d1b87f18c82a63c58ef3a4ff0.jpg

20180722_081641.thumb.jpg.411921a705415fa1c12dfb69effaedc0.jpg  20180722_085549.thumb.jpg.0c5e397fa6a1ac890c062c98f6813e2d.jpg

20180722_090539(1).thumb.jpg.6d38b028f10d7a35fab06cb1e2a22528.jpgGeode thing that C found


Luckily, the two-person party that had left a bit before us was just coming down as we got to the final stretch before the summit -- I was a little concerned about them rapping above us as we came up. It worked out perfectly! The summit views were incredible, and we hung out for awhile. I especially loved seeing Lyman Lakes and Cloudy Pass, since I had hiked the Spider Gap - Cloudy Pass - Buck Creek Pass loop from the Chiwawa River Road last summer.

We did a combination of down climbing and some careful rappelling and then back onto the glacier, where we definitely noticed crevasses and bridges looking different from the morning...



We were back to the Pass by around 4, and the mosquitoes were terrible. Z and C set up "the princess fort" which was Z's mosquito netting hung on the rope strung between two trees, it was excellent! Another group showed up, and it was a guided party!  We spoke for awhile with the guide, who hadn't climbed Bonanza before, and he left us a very nice note the next morning! I later found out they were successful, too :tup:

Z left after a semi-alpine start so she could get back in time for a bit of rest before heading off to Goode, but C and I hiked out in the hotter weather, we found a cairn in the talus field below where we had approached from and that made it easier, I ate about 60 thimbleberries :very_metal:, back to Holden, back to Lucerne, I went swimming in Lake Chelan (objective #3 ticked), back to Fields Point Landing.....

So great!



Gear Notes:
60m rope, light axe

Approach Notes:
Get a copy of the informative newspaper on the Lady II, go swimming at every opportunity, bring a mosquito net fort, eat thimbleberries

Edited by Alisse
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On 7/26/2018 at 5:22 PM, Alisse said:

then applied the DEET in good amounts.

Check out 20% Picardin products like this.  I've found them to be equal to DEET, plus they won't melt plastic, give you cancer, or make your lips numb.:moondance:

Oh, and NICE WORK on Bonanza....one of the classics!

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Lovely. We were on a family backpacking trip that weekend around Stehekin and the weather was perfect. 

Thimbleberries are the bestest!


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On 7/28/2018 at 2:20 PM, JasonG said:

Check out 20% Picardin products like this.  I've found them to be equal to DEET, plus they won't melt plastic, give you cancer, or make your lips numb.:moondance:

No cancer? I don't want it, then!


Seriously though, do you know how they compare as far as aquatic life? I try to avoid going swimming the same day as putting on DEET, but I wonder about Picardin?

And where can I get some sunscreen+bug spray combo??

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2 hours ago, Alisse said:

Seriously though, do you know how they compare as far as aquatic life?


Fish and Aquatic Life

  • Researchers estimated the 96-hour LC50 in rainbow trout to be 173 mg/L and the NOEC to be 50.1 mg/L.1,2 Based on this study, the U.S. EPA considers picaridin to be moderately toxic to fish.1 Tests for bioaccumulation potential in the zebra danio fish indicated that there is no potential for bioaccumulation in fish through diet or other exposure routes.2 Another study with the same fish species concluded that there was some potential for bioconcentration, or uptake through water alone.2
  • Daphnia magna showed no signs of toxicity when exposed to concentrations ranging from 10 mg/L to 100 mg/L for 24 or 48 hours.1
  • The Lowest Observed Effect Concentration (LOEC) for the green alga Scenedesmus subspicatus was estimated to be 56 mg/L based on 72-hour exposures to concentrations ranging from 5.6 to 100.0 mg/L.1



Fish and Aquatic Life

  • DEET is slightly toxic to freshwater fish (LC50 = 75 mg/L).1
  • DEET is slightly toxic to aquatic invertebrates (EC50 = 75 ppm).1 See the text box on EC50.


Neither are particularly nasty to people or fish, but I hate melted plastic and numb lips so Picardin is for me.

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