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JonParker

NW Face Forbidden - W ridge notch approach

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Anyone done this approach this year? Or this time of year in the last couple years? I haven't found much info on it and I'm wondering what the rap anchors are like and if I should expect moat shenanigans. Appreciate any info.

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Should be better than this to access the toe of the route (late August 2012)....:lmao:

IMG_0215-X2.jpg

I would definitely expect shenanigans though.

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1 hour ago, JonParker said:

that looks like no kinds of fun

Full disclosure @JonParker, you can probably avoid the toe pictured above by rapping in from the west ridge notch (we came around the mountain and carried over, but a full spanning crack denied us entry to the buttress higher up).  There is a ramp that comes in above where this photo was taken.  Still, you will likely need two ropes and potentially an extra picket to get over the 'schrund from the pin anchor that @Blake and @Dannible  reference in this TR.  It is a tricky approach from the WRN, even in good conditions.

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I made it in from the west ridge notch with a single 60 m rope years ago.   I recall maybe two rappells on rock followed by another off a bollard and then maybe one off a picket to get to the ramp Jason mentioned.  Definitely full on.   I imagine it would be in no better or worse shape than ever.

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We climbed the route yesterday by the Boston Glacier approach with a spectacular bivy at the north ridge notch. Getting onto the rock from the higher snow ramp was trivial with no moat or serac shenanigans. Here is a photo of the terrain below the west ridge notch taken from where we gained the rock. It likely would have saved us lots of time but I was glad to have taken the long route just for the incredible bivy. Have fun out there. 

IMG_6911.jpg

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Back in the dark ages (1980s)  we bivied at the north ridge notch then climbed up and over the next day.  It's a cool climb!

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