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KaskadskyjKozak

[TR] Cruiser - S Corner 06/16/2018

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Trip: Cruiser - S Corner

Trip Date: 06/16/2018

Trip Report:

 

Nearly nine years ago, in early August, I attempted this route and turned around on the summit of Beta.  I've been overdue for a rematch.  Just to make things interesting (well, I needed to be in town for Father's Day), I decided to do the climb C2C.  We car camped near some side trailhead a mile or two shy of Staircase, and headed up at 5 am on Saturday.  20 hours later we were back at the car, happy, successful, and rehydrating with the beverage that proves God exists and loves us.

 

Now for some pics to fill in details.  See attachments.

Continuous, firm snow from near Gladys Pass to Needle Pass

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View up from Needle Pass.  The lower parts are unsavory, loose, exposed class 3.  It gets better higher up.

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Better scrambling.  This is more fun!

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Looking down the gully from the summit of Beta:

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Cruiser!

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Some minor shenanigans negotiating the moat. 

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We solo'd the gully up to just below the chockstone, stashed our packs and did a short (silly) lead through the cannonhole.

Ledge above the chockstone

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Summit block (taken on descent).  There is one shiny bolt and an anchor with two more.   I placed a few cams and a nut.

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Exposure on the summit is non-trivial:

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Summit P0rn:

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Gear Notes:
Ice axe, crampons, helmet, small alpine rack

Approach Notes:
no snow until ha lfway from Flapjack lakes to Gladys Pass, then mostly snow until Needle Pass. From there, a moat or two to contend with but otherwise dry

 

IMG_0554.JPG

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IMG_0546.JPG

Edited by KaskadskyjKozak
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Yes!  Such a great climb, glad you made it happen on the second try.  I still think that is one of the more intimidating summits out there, given the grade.  THAT'S low fifth??!!

I had to laugh that you did it C2C.  My wife and I took three days!

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On 6/22/2018 at 3:31 PM, JasonG said:

Yes!  Such a great climb, glad you made it happen on the second try.  I still think that is one of the more intimidating summits out there, given the grade.  THAT'S low fifth??!!

I had to laugh that you did it C2C.  My wife and I took three days!

Yeah, the summit pitch is definitely high-pucker factor.  Such a fun climb!

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That brings back some good memories!  One of my first Olympic rock routes, I led on my brand new rack of 4 cams and some nuts I brought back from Russia.  Glad you got back there to finish it!

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12 hours ago, OlympicMtnBoy said:

That brings back some good memories!  One of my first Olympic rock routes, I led on my brand new rack of 4 cams and some nuts I brought back from Russia.  Glad you got back there to finish it!

I've been meaning to get to the Olympics more - love the area for sure.  There are a few great scrambles on my radar screen (Constance, Clark, Anderson...)

But it's extra special to tick off a rock climb like this.

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