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J Jones

[TR] Black Peak - NE Ridge 06/02/2018

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Posted (edited)

Trip: Black Peak - NE Ridge

Trip Date: 06/02/2018

Trip Report:


Planned on a two day approach instead of a longer one day push. Weather (snow/rain) forecast for Sun 1400, decided for an early Sun and try to beat the clouds on the summit. Left TH at 1300, Sat. Easy enough trail looking down on Ann Lake, from Heather pass you see your objective and walk, loosing about 400' elevation to Lewis Lake and then up to Wing Lake. Recommend doing this hike early season, the snow was great and those talus fields would add hours to the hike.


We found the bivy camp nicely melted out and dry. There are a couple benches to choose from. 

Sunday, 0620 left camp, hiked up easy snow, final push was straight up tot he right of the notch. The later season route goes to the left, but that looked more treacherous than needed, with a steep snow traverse over a cliff band. After gaining the saddle we wondered over to the rock, de-cramponed, and looked at crossing left in front of the melted out cornice, but chose to go right, behind. This was the way to go, placed a picket, not really needed and began simuling mixed snow and rock. 

Stay on the ridge unless it is obvious that you can walk, traverse on the left or right. We didn't wander more than 10 feet laterally from the ridge. Just trust it and keep going forward and up.

There was a surprise right before the summit block, a mostly melted out cornice. It'll probably be gone by the time this is posted but be aware. Summit, there are 2 ways a scramble right in front of you as you step across to it or follow the left path and you'll see a cordelette. I used it to down climb, but use you best judgement.

Follow the south ridge for the walk off. "Follow the Carins" that's all, don't dive down to soon, it all seemed to go but walking further around seemed more pleasant looking back at it. Snow was in mid way down the ridge so we glacaded back to camp, but the weather had come in so we had a wet walk out.


Actual Time:


1300 leave TH

1500 Heather Pass

1715 Wing Lake - Bivy/camp


0620 Leave camp

0710 Arrive at notch

1430 Summit

1630 Back to camp

1940 Back to cars


We we're 2:30 behind our expected time. 

Gear: Crampons, Ice ax, 60m (Kiwi coiled), 2 pickets, Nuts, Offset nuts, .3-1 BD cams, 2" Omega (because ok). Climbed in boots.

Gear Notes:
Simuled a lot of it, 80/20. Brought 10 doubles and 6 singles, could have brought a little more of each to make simuling carry farther. Rack .3-1 Plus a 2" omega and nuts.

Approach Notes:
Most of the approach is in the snow. The bivy is melted out and pretty nice. Lots of mud slides, but no major snow activity. We lost the snow trail briefly coming in and out, but low near the hairpin that starts you towards Ann Lake. Lots of ski tracks and boot tracks leading everywhere.

Edited by J Jones
added expected timing.
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How was the weather on Sunday?  Any photos?

Such a fun route!

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