Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  

first ascent [TR] snoqualmie mountain - possible fa: the turf testament 03/31/2018

Recommended Posts

Trip: snoqualmie mountain - possible fa: the turf testament

Trip Date: 03/31/2018

Trip Report:


marko and i went kickin', scratchin', 'n stabbin' yesterday and unearthed a previously unheralded book of the bible: the turf testament. 


start a few hundred feet up the slot couloir at the large right facing book. pitches 1-2: two 60m pitches up rock & turf in the corner and some thin ice on the right face. pitch 3: climb a short corner, move easily left to the next book, & climb it to tree belay (<50m). [pitch 3 alternatives: a. possibly rightward escape on a treed ramp (may dead end on the ridge bordering the slot), or b. finish directly up very difficult looking roofs above.] pitch 4: climb up shallow right facing book with overlaps to difficult exit moves overlooking the roofs directly above the second belay (30m). [pitch 4 alternative: straight up through a short squeeze chimney to a difficult looking roof in main corner.] hike up the ridge between the slot and crooked couloirs to the summit rock band. pitch 5: up central chimney/gully to exit immediately left of cornices (30m).

a pretty good photo of this route appears in martin volken's "backcountry skiing: snoqualmie pass". the route is very obvious to anyone skiing the slot so i would not be surprised if it has been climbed: any info would be appreciated.

the route cannot be seen from the start of pineapple express. however, a party could climb the first 4(?) of p.e., then scope the route from there. if interested, they could cross the slot to the turf testament. if not, continue up p.e. 

are you ready to testify?

Gear Notes:
rock gear to 4"; screws to 13cm (for us); your choice of turf gear; a few pins (not used)

Approach Notes:
best via standard approach to nw face. dropping down the slot may work but has drawbacks (can't scope the route, pissed off skiers).

Edited by rat
  • Like 1
  • Snaffled 1
  • Rawk on! 3

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

nice 'discovery', lads!  looks like a solid addition to your empire of dirt.

have wistfully looked up at that wondering if/when someone might climb it. how many snargs on the rack?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just one shortie Snarg, used 3x in the blessed turf blobs.  Some very crappy phone pics follow...

The first page of the newest Testament:



The first 3 meters off the ground:



The next 15 meters, which set the tone for most of the climbing:



Looking straight up last pitch and summit cornice.  (The few other pics I took during the climb were too crappy for publication):



Summit shot.  If you look closely you can see the chiseled Fingers of Fate:



This climb, in the conditions we found it, is harder and more sustained than NYG and PE and all their variations.  Though Rolf said that's because we're old now.

Praise be Turf for without it we are NOTHING!


  • Like 1
  • Rawk on! 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎4‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 7:34 PM, kukuzka1 said:


You'd love it dude, next year you can guide me up it 'cause by then I'll forget that we even did it!

  • Rawk on! 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

kukuzka1, his brother, and I were Team Motrin on an Alaska trip a few years back; I think graduating to Team Centrum Silver is appropriate!

  • Rawk on! 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this