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rat

first ascent [TR] snoqualmie mountain - possible fa: the turf testament 03/31/2018

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Posted (edited)

Trip: snoqualmie mountain - possible fa: the turf testament

Trip Date: 03/31/2018

Trip Report:

 

marko and i went kickin', scratchin', 'n stabbin' yesterday and unearthed a previously unheralded book of the bible: the turf testament. 

 

start a few hundred feet up the slot couloir at the large right facing book. pitches 1-2: two 60m pitches up rock & turf in the corner and some thin ice on the right face. pitch 3: climb a short corner, move easily left to the next book, & climb it to tree belay (<50m). [pitch 3 alternatives: a. possibly rightward escape on a treed ramp (may dead end on the ridge bordering the slot), or b. finish directly up very difficult looking roofs above.] pitch 4: climb up shallow right facing book with overlaps to difficult exit moves overlooking the roofs directly above the second belay (30m). [pitch 4 alternative: straight up through a short squeeze chimney to a difficult looking roof in main corner.] hike up the ridge between the slot and crooked couloirs to the summit rock band. pitch 5: up central chimney/gully to exit immediately left of cornices (30m).

a pretty good photo of this route appears in martin volken's "backcountry skiing: snoqualmie pass". the route is very obvious to anyone skiing the slot so i would not be surprised if it has been climbed: any info would be appreciated.

the route cannot be seen from the start of pineapple express. however, a party could climb the first 4(?) of p.e., then scope the route from there. if interested, they could cross the slot to the turf testament. if not, continue up p.e. 

are you ready to testify?

Gear Notes:
rock gear to 4"; screws to 13cm (for us); your choice of turf gear; a few pins (not used)

Approach Notes:
best via standard approach to nw face. dropping down the slot may work but has drawbacks (can't scope the route, pissed off skiers).

Edited by rat
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nice 'discovery', lads!  looks like a solid addition to your empire of dirt.

have wistfully looked up at that wondering if/when someone might climb it. how many snargs on the rack?

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Just one shortie Snarg, used 3x in the blessed turf blobs.  Some very crappy phone pics follow...

The first page of the newest Testament:

IMG_1433small.thumb.JPG.97c8304e823b64a2fd4da2bd99fb3820.JPG

 

The first 3 meters off the ground:

IMG_1436small.thumb.jpg.7234f61ee3e3940cec6a5e73ee057028.jpg

 

The next 15 meters, which set the tone for most of the climbing:

IMG_1440.thumb.JPG.2168b3561f54a35c5b2b9e23a685fe3d.JPG

 

Looking straight up last pitch and summit cornice.  (The few other pics I took during the climb were too crappy for publication):

IMG_1459.thumb.JPG.67ee57e86046d032e2c6b638811fa9a5.JPG

 

Summit shot.  If you look closely you can see the chiseled Fingers of Fate:

IMG_1472.thumb.JPG.ddb4203ace792629729d2c12cd36db51.JPG

 

This climb, in the conditions we found it, is harder and more sustained than NYG and PE and all their variations.  Though Rolf said that's because we're old now.

Praise be Turf for without it we are NOTHING!

 

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On ‎4‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 7:34 PM, kukuzka1 said:

Cool!

You'd love it dude, next year you can guide me up it 'cause by then I'll forget that we even did it!

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kukuzka1, his brother, and I were Team Motrin on an Alaska trip a few years back; I think graduating to Team Centrum Silver is appropriate!

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