Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Bronco

Fly Boys Route -Goat Wall - Mazama

Recommended Posts

no topo but here is a description:

 

Flyboys 18 Pitch 5.9+
Parking is at the pull off for the swimming hole and parking for Prime Rib and Restless Natives. Walk 200 feet back down the road to the east, the trail will be visible on the opposite side of the road. Follow the trail up into the woods. Continue on the trail through the boulder field until you come to a Y in the trail. To the right takes you to Restless Natives and to the left will take you to Flyboys. Follow the trail to the gully where cairns take you up the gully and exit right at the largest cairn .The start of the climb is next to the tall dead tree. The hike should take about 30 minutes. 
The route is designed both as a walk off or a separate rap that parallels the climb. Rappel stations are visible either on the way up or when rappelling down. Belay stations have 3 bolts at the top of all pitches. Rappel stations have three bolts and two chains. Do not confuse the two. If you are climbing the route a 60 meter rope and 16 draws will suffice. At the top of the route follow the cairns to the top of the trail where it joins the walk off trail of Prime Rib. It is about 20 to 30 minutes back to the road. If you intend to rap the route a 60 meter rope with knots in the ends will deliver you to back down to the base of the route. BE ADVISED that all 60 meter raps are rope stretchers. A 70 meter rope is advisable for safer rappels. Do not take this climb lightly. This is an alpine sport route. Although all pitches are bolted this is a long and challenging route. Enjoy and please be safe!
1) 5.9 9 bolts From the large snag route starts 40 feet to the right in a right facing corner. Thin face crux up high. 
2) 5.6 8 bolts Easy ramp to 15 foot block, mantle onto slab and continue to chains 
3) 5.8 10 bolts Steep face to staircase leading to exposed belay. 
4) 5.9 11 bolts Traverse left into intricate face moves followed by sustained face climbing. 
5) 5.6 5 bolts When second arrives move belay 4 feet towards gully. Extend 3rd bolt with runner to avoid rope drag. Continue past rappel anchor to base of pitch 6
6) 5.8+ 9 bolts Tricky bulge leads to excellent arête climbing. Walk 40 meters south to base of wall to start next pitch 
7) 5.9+ 8 bolts Stemming corner leads to steep and wild face moves into crack. 
8) 5.8+ 16 bolts Sustained enjoyable climbing leads to large ledge with cairn and 50 meter walk to south to start next pitch. 
9) 5.9 15 bolts Perfect pocket pitch. Scramble up and to the right of flag tree for next pitch. 
10) 5.9+ 10 bolts Over hanging jugs in broken flakes leads to expose belay. 
11) 5.7 14 bolts Diagonal face leads to clean slab. Walk past trees to south 50 yards to start of pitch 12. 
12) 5.7 9 bolts Sustained moderate climbing through corners and overlaps.
13) 5.8 14 bolts Continue climbing through corners and overlaps. 
14) 5.9+ 9 bolts Stay left on arête to short face followed by traversing flake into squeeze chimney. 
15) 5.4 6 bolts Follow bolts through easy slab trending left to stance above gully. 
16) 5.8 7 bolts Step across abyss to exposed arête and jug ladder. Scramble 3rd class past lone pine tree to start of 17. 
17) 5.7 10 bolts Boulder start leads to step face trending right.
18) 5.9+ 10 bolts 3 consecutive 5.9+ bouldery problems lead to exposed finish.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hah, I just came over to post about this route, but Bronco beat me to it. Looks like a good time to me, definitely goes on the list. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I climbed this in September last year, took us about 6-7 hours to climb and we did the walk off the top (shuttled a car up in the morning).

It's a thoroughly enjoyable climb and one I wouldn't mind repeating this spring!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Would someone be able to highlight on a map where the upper car/bike shuttle spot is? I spend a couple hours trying to find the right road for Prime Rib a few years back with 0 success... I don't ever want to rap those walls again. 

Edit: Just climbed it yesterday and Mountain Project had all of the info I needed. Easy bike shuttle and ride off. Great 6 hour climb and I definitely recommend linking pitches with a 70m if you don't mind drag. We linked 1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 7/8, 10/11 (exactly 70m), 12/13 and 15/16 (and could have linked 17/18 with a little rope drag). 

Edited by Wellman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×