Jump to content

Mixed climbing


bigwalling

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 11
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You want bolts or natural gear?

 

Doesn't matter. I'm just interested in knowing what our state has to offer in this form of climbing.

 

If you have a drill and time then I am sure you can create something more difficult that what already exists. Otherwise you can find something heinous on many mountains out there.

 

For some info I heard that near mt baker ski area there is some sport\mixed climbs that are EXTREME.

 

Caption: Andreas Schmidt climbs Gorilla Bar, rated M8, at the newly developed 'Toolshed' mixed climbing crag at the Mt. Baker Ski area.

Photographer: Tim Matsui

 

Guest-20030131-6673200009.JPG

Edited by Cpt.Caveman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You want bolts or natural gear?

 

Doesn't matter. I'm just interested in knowing what our state has to offer in this form of climbing.

 

If you have a drill and time then I am sure you can create something more difficult that what already exists. Otherwise you can find something heinous on many mountains out there.

 

For some info I heard that near mt baker ski area there is some sport\mixed climbs that are EXTREME.

 

Caption: Andreas Schmidt climbs Gorilla Bar, rated M8, at the newly developed 'Toolshed' mixed climbing crag at the Mt. Baker Ski area.

Photographer: Tim Matsui

 

Guest-20030131-6673200009.JPG

 

If I'm not mistaken, this route is about twenty feet tall, although, this year, it's likely to be forty feet to the first bolt.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I'm not mistaken, this route is about twenty feet tall, although, this year, it's likely to be forty feet to the first bolt.

 

I don't know a thing about the area.

 

This climb is to the right of Pan Dome, about 75', unless it's in a new area. The pitch he's leading is just left of the farmost ice pillar on that "cliff band".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The hardest modern mixed route in the state (i.e. bolted route) is a route called Guru on the Rap Wall in Alpental. The route goes at M9 and to my knowledge has only seen one complete ascent.

 

Sean Issac told me that he believes the gentleman who completed this route is the first to do a route at this grade inside the boarders of Washington State.

 

There are a number of extremely hard mixed routes that are more alpine in nature. For example, Goat's Beard in Mazama is seldom in good condition and often requires hard mixed climbing.

 

The hardest ice/mixed route in the state is down near Camus on Hamilton Mountain. The ice climbing on the route is in the WI 6 range and there are many mixed moves. To date this route has never seen a complete ascent. It is by all standards (including rock, alpine, ice and mixed) perhaps the hardest and most commiting climb in Washington State.

 

Jason

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...