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Ben Beckerich

Graybeard Nordwand, early winter.... this winter.

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Seems like if you caught 'er in early/thin conditions, it might not be a complete death trap. Wait till the first few warmer storms rip through, skin up, and hope for more ice than neck deep powder on route

 

Target time (for my schedule for my winter North Cascades adventure.... which is happening, Graybeard or not....) is like last week of Novemberish to first week of Decemberish.

 

This route is pretty much EXACTLY what I'm looking for, approachwise, gradewise, seriousnesswise.... but a wait for spring isn't a luxury I have.

 

What's it typically like up in the hell of the North Cascades steeper north faces late fall/early winter? Does the powder just instantly start piling up, or can the region be caught in the more southerly Cascade's early fat ice/thin snow?

 

Thanks brus

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I think the crux for you will be finding good winter conditions while the highway is still open. Not sure when it typically closes. You could ski or snowmobile the closed road though, if you really want it.

 

FWIW, I have found very good conditions in the Cascade Pass region in very late fall and early winter while the Cascade River Road is still open to mile 20/Eldorado Creek TH, which typically becomes impassible by January. Very short days that time of year.

 

 

Edited by DPS

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I think the crux for you will be finding good winter conditions while the highway is still open. Not sure when it typically closes. You could ski or snowmobile the closed road though, if you really want it.

 

FWIW, I have found very good conditions in the Cascade Pass region in very late fall and early winter while the Cascade River Road is still open to mile 20/Eldorado Creek TH, which typically becomes impassible by January. Very short days that time of year.

 

 

I'll have to get a hold of WaDoT and try to get a feel for when they think they're gonna close 'er down... 'cuz yea, now that you mention it - the most primo conditions are going to be before they close it. Enough frozen liquid accumulation to climb, but not enough yet to be sliding.

 

According to the WaDoT website, they generally close at the exact same timeframe I'm looking at - last week Nov/first week Dec. I figured, for some reason, it was earlier than that and had already planned to skin in....

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I'm in Winthrop, shoot me a PM with your email address and feel free to pester me for a conditions update in later Novemeber. I'm a skier, not a climber so all I'll really be able to tell you is snow amounts and temps. Usually WSDOT is looking for 2-3 feet of snow in the avalanche paths that threaten the road to close it. Good resources would be the NWAC weather station at WA Pass if it's working and also sign up for the WSDOT North Cascades emails. They usually do a good job of sending out status reports on what's happening up there.

 

edit: Alternatively if there is enough snow you might be able to snag a snowmobile tow up with me or others.

Edited by JBo6

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I'm in Winthrop, shoot me a PM with your email address and feel free to pester me for a conditions update in later Novemeber. I'm a skier, not a climber so all I'll really be able to tell you is snow amounts and temps. Usually WSDOT is looking for 2-3 feet of snow in the avalanche paths that threaten the road to close it. Good resources would be the NWAC weather station at WA Pass if it's working and also sign up for the WSDOT North Cascades emails. They usually do a good job of sending out status reports on what's happening up there.

 

edit: Alternatively if there is enough snow you might be able to snag a snowmobile tow up with me or others.

 

Hell yea man.. I'll definitely hit you up. Wanna shoot me an email or text sos I can contact you?

 

Ben@fairweather-roofing.com

503-327-4244

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