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telemarker

Castle Rock New Route

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Geez you guys, same old arguments. I'm going to have to check this new route out. I was just over doing Canary and I didn't see it. I used to think Castle was the be all and end all of granite climbing in Washington. But lately I've been spending much more time at Index.

 

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/mid-wall/106386407

 

It's less hot, and new crack climbing crags are being found and developed all the time. Much of it aproaches or exceeds the quality of Indian Creek. It's an exciting time to be climbing!

P.S. I also love table tennis. The wife and I have a ping pong table and we play all the time...plus you can play at the rec center in Squamish after a day of climbing.

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You can protect the newly bolted funky climbing up to the 5.9+ crack on this pitch fairly well with two bomber purple tcus / green c3s and a .3.  Seems like most of the climbing at upper castle requires one to be somewhat creative...

Edited by SDuke

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I climbed this, it can go without bolts. Personally I didn’t like the climb and it was still pretty dirty. It protects well with gear with the rack we brought up.

I'm surprised it was bolted up at castle. I could see someone bolting it as a new climb in some obscure spot for fun or to practice bolting...

To each their own, but I don’t think the bolts were a tasteful addition for the climb or the crag in general.

That said, I do appreciate the replacement of bolts and anchors on castle, as well as bolting on innovative new routes. That route is just fine without bolts IMO and you can place gear-there’s a cam placement right next to the second bolt and you can place gear without running it out.

Not the nicest explanation of my opinion, and if you like the route that’s great. 

Edited by EagleCreek
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I climbed this once and was entirely uninspired compared to all the other offerings nearby.  I wouldn't climb it again. But oh well. It's there, and an alternate way to access the second/third pitch of Midway etc. if Midway and/or South Crack are bottlenecked. 

But then again if that's the case, you can always climb Rainshadow. 

Again, I don't want to be critical of those people out there expanding our Leavenworth climbing options on their own time and money. I'm just not sure it was necessary to forge a line up in that exact spot. Lord knows I've spent a lot  of time at Castle, and to me this route just seems sandwiched and out of place. 

Just my stupid opinion. 

Edited by telemarker
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I've learned from experience that if it's green when you find it it'll go back to green if it doesn't get traffic. People will be re-discovering Index routes to the end of time for this reason. 

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