Jump to content

[TR] Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully 5/6/2017


Alex789

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mount Hood - North Face Right Gully

 

Date: 5/6/2017

 

Trip Report:

We climbed Mount Hood Right Gully on a weekend 6-7 Mat 2017. The weather was very promising at last. As I have to drive to from Seattle to Portland to join my friends Oleg and Ananstasia, I insisted that we go with approach to have a sleep before climb. We started fom Tilly Jane parking lot at 1:20 PM on Saturday. Originally we planned to camp on an Elliot Glacier. However when qwe arrived at Cooper Spur Shelter, we encountered strong and cold wind and decided that it is not worth to hike further up. We made our camp in a shade of the shelter.

05_Approach.jpg

10_Camp.JPG

Next morning we started at 3:15 AM. The wind was still strong and cold. Anastasia got cold feet and decided to turn back. We continued with Oleg. We arrived at the bergshrund at 7 AM and traversed across the right side of the bergshrund.

25_Morning.jpg

35_Tharevsing_over_bergshrund.jpg

After the bergshrund we found a good consolidated neve. We continued by simul-climbing on front points. First step was a short WI2 section. Then long section of simul-climbing again. Second step was also short and easy.

40_Simul_climbing.jpg

45_2-ns_step.jpg

More front-pointing followed and we topped the summit at 11:10 AM.

50_Upper_pitches.jpg

55_Oleg_and_Sasha_on_summit.jpg

To get back to our came we decided to descend Sunshine route. We downclimbed it and bypassed many crevasses arriving at camp at 4 PM and back to car at 6:30 PM. Very mellow conditions now on North Face. Hard neve makes good exercise for calves.

 

81_Downclimbing_Sunshine.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

60 m ropes

2 ice tools each

2 pickets

2 screws

Several slings

 

Approach Notes:

We did not use flotation, but with warmer temperatures snow can be softer and flotation might be needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 5
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...