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[TR] Lane Peak - South Face (Standard) 4/15/2017

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Trip: Lane Peak - South Face (Standard)


Date: 4/15/2017


Trip Report:

The gate opened at 9am, there was a wait in order to get in. We drove to Narada Falls parking lot, where we started the ascend. The weather was great the entire day with sun and the there was a fresh layer of snow, so recommend wearing snowshoes.



Once you ascend the initial hill, you walk on the road for 0.2 miles and then turn to the right towards the trees (Lane Peak should be in the background). Then you reach a flat area and you will have to cross a creek using a snow bridge that has a log under it. Then you continue to ascend all the way to the top which took us 4 hours (for a group of 12).



A static rope was set at the top to summit as it is very narrow, be careful here as there was some small avalanches taking place. Then we rappel down using a tree and then climbed down until reached a flat area by the trees before descending.



The descend started at 7:30pm (with headlamps) and we glissaded down one of the sections on the way down as the snow was soft and we could see the bottom of the hill. We did the left side of the tree line path not the right. Then we keep walking and passed the snow bridge and then back to the flat lands until the final 400ft ascend to the road. On the way down to the parking lot, the snow was very slushy and wet. Made it back to the parking lot around 9:30pm.


The road conditions are clear for driving, but the Park Rangers do require to carry chains.



The exact route:


Follow around the side of the parking lot past a maintenance building and bathrooms, and proceed up the steep hillside to the road above which leads to Reflection Lakes in the summer. Follow snowshoe/ski tracks on the road away from Lane Peak until the first major hairpin turn. Turn off the road and down hill here.


Drop through the forest until a flat, open clearing, then turn right (east) under Denman Peak and towards Lane. Traverse steep hillsides, gaining elevation. There is a part that you go over a snow bridge to pass the creek in order to get closer to the peak (Pass one at a time for safety)


Note the descent track is to the left of the rock nose you will pass below Lover's Lane.




South Face (Standard) - Class 3 with possible moderate snow


The standard route starts the same as described above. Cross Tatoosh Creek at 4,500 feet and follow it down however do not go all the way to the base of the north face proper. Instead, head up the large gully separating Lane and Denman Peaks. In spring, this gully will have moderate snow but in summer, you can start on the large 250 foot talus slope that comes all the way down to the creek. At the end of the talus, continue up through the trees and stay right of a short cliff band. 700 feet above Tatoosh Creek (at 5,200 feet), emerge above the trees and continue to the broad, 5,440 foot saddle.


From the saddle, turn right and head west up gentle slopes and aim for the obvious weakness in the southeast face of the peak. The final 50 feet will involve some fun Class 3 scrambling. The summit is a small perch with beautiful views of three volcanoes and most of the Tatoosh Peaks.


Descend via the standard route down the SE face. The scramble down is fairly straightforward but there is a large tree you can make a short rappel from. Continue down to the Lane/Denman saddle and return back to Tatoosh Creek and make the final 400 foot ascent back to the road.



Gear Notes:


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Edited by jackie7

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