cj001f Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 Ive heard petzl Shunt works great for self belay but feed is not quite as smooth as Ushba. The shunt doens't feed that badly, but I didn't like using it because of the slippage when loaded - it went a couple of inches down the rope before it stopped(not the most reassuring feeling in the world) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 if you're going to be on less than vertical terrain where there is a chance you might trap the device between your body and the rock in a fall, consider getting a device where the camming action is internal or shielded. For example if you fall on a gri-gri such that there is no room for the lever to swing out it will not catch on the rope. I believe Petzl Shunts have a similar weakness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted January 27, 2003 Author Share Posted January 27, 2003 I just ordered an Ushba. Thanks for the input. PS I did read some of the link that Off White posted. Apparently the shunt is not recommended. Good point, Fern. Cheers - TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 How well does the ushba work for solo leading? How does it handle upside down falls? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 I don't think you can safely use an ascender for lead soloing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 How well does the ushba work for solo leading? How does it handle upside down falls? You can use it but I would recommend spending the money you would spend on such a device, on beers for a belayer instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 I've heard the same thing -- ascenders and lead soloing do not mix! If I wanted to lead solo I would shell out the dough for a fancy device built specifically for that purpose (Soloist or Silent Partner). I have led solo aid using clove hitches, but I don't know if it's possible to lead solo like that; and even if it's possible, I don't know that I would... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 I like the silent partner for solo leading, though I have only used it once, you just can't try to make a big quick move, as the unit will cam and lock on ya (pulling out a few arm lengths before the move solved this problem). I figured those devices cannot be used SAFELY for solo leading, but I thought I would ask to make sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 Like Mark Twight says in Extreme Alpinism - "There is a way to modify a GriGri to make a device that can be used as a solo belay device for a free climbing leader, but I wont tell you how to do it here, nor will anyone else. If you need to do it you will figure it out." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 Dru, is that like, "son, if ya hav'ta ask what it costs, ya kaint afford it" ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted January 27, 2003 Share Posted January 27, 2003 Search on Google. It took me about five seconds to find a page on how to modify a Grigri. I still think rustling up a partner is faster, easier, and less expensive and more fun. Or become the next Dean Potter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted January 28, 2003 Share Posted January 28, 2003 I've TR soloed with a Petzl Expedition clipped between my harness and a webbing chest harness. It works pretty well and I don't do anything way out of my league. Downside is there's no redundancy unless I add a prusik, but that would foul the smooth feeding of the ascender. That is what I usually use. Make sure to clip the biner into the device properly (see Putzl site or instructions), it will keep it from jumping off the rope, and feed easier. If you still want backup, then tie a loose prusik above the ascender. It will be pushed up by the ascender. I don't bother with the chest harness though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 I would prefer not to have to stop climbing to keep re-tieing a hitch, (or moving up a prussick) but thanks for the comment on rope pinching. YIPES! Even a tr fall could create enough friction to burn through your prussik cord! Careful out there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allison Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 My favorite device for belaying is this thing they call a climbing partner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 My favorite device for belaying is this thing they call a climbing partner. Is that UIAA approved and CE certified??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted January 29, 2003 Author Share Posted January 29, 2003 For what it's worth, Ushba emphatically says that their basic ascender is not suitable for solo leading but it is absulutely the best shit out there for solo-TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squid Posted January 29, 2003 Share Posted January 29, 2003 For top roped soloing, I've used the Wild Country Ropeman II ascender, and I'm pleased with it. It feeds well, and the rope cannot be removed from the device. It is both lighter and cheaper than the Ushba Basic. WC Ropeman @ MEC I use a back-up knot when top-rope soloing with this or any other device. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hummerchine Posted March 4, 2003 Share Posted March 4, 2003 I have experimented a LOT with solo top-rope systems, my current favorite setup uses the Ushba unit clipped to my belay loop with a DMM Belay-Master carabiner, on a Stratos rope. I back it up with a Petzl Mini-Traxion on a foot-long runner girth-hitched to my harness, so it rides on the rope about a foot below the Ushba ascender (also clipped in with a Belay-Master). I even modified the Mini-Traxion so the cam cannot be locked open (easy mod with a Dremel, just cut the notch of on the outer plate). Weight the rope a few feet off the ground with a water bottle and the extra rope coiled up. Mega bomber, rides smooth, easy to set up, no chest harness, backed up with another type and brand of ascender. I would strongly recommend against using only one ascender, weird shit happens; if it does you die. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yngeagle Posted March 4, 2003 Share Posted March 4, 2003 I would have to agree on the Ushba ascender. I've been using mine for years now and I love it, its great for doing laps and training. I also like it for doing and making problems higher up the wall where most of the boulders wont go, plus mainly because it doesn't wear on rope like the other ascenders that use teeth do. If your looking to buy one or look at it Nelson's shop in the U-district usually carries it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackY Posted May 2, 2003 Share Posted May 2, 2003 OK, I ordered a Petzl basic ascender and mini-traxion and I plan to attempt to use then as Hummerchine describes. Anyone have any more advice etc. thanks, Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dummy Posted May 2, 2003 Share Posted May 2, 2003 Thanks Off_White. How about a reference book recommendation that addresses soloist systems - are there any out there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted May 2, 2003 Share Posted May 2, 2003 gri-gri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 2, 2003 Share Posted May 2, 2003 There is some good info now available on www.buildering.net about roped sololo devices. Did you know that an Ushba will cleanly sever the rope at a 5 kN force level!! So its safe to use for TR (max realistic force you will gennerate is about 1.8 kN) but NOT for leading If you can find a Troll copy called a Roller, it is safer, begins to slide a bit a 3kN and so does not cut the rope, apparently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted May 2, 2003 Share Posted May 2, 2003 The Yates rocker is similar to the ushba and feeds very smoothly, better than the petzl shunt or what ever it is their TRS device is called. It was recently rated tops in one of the british climbing mags. It does feed smoother, seems to have the minimal rope drag.- it works by bending the rope, no teeth. the silent partner is the only device specifically designed for solo lead climbing; all other self belay devices are for TRS only, although this won't prevent a climber from jury rigging a system acceptable to their level of risk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted May 2, 2003 Share Posted May 2, 2003 OOOPs. Rocker not Roller. The Troll is the Yates I believe. Yates is USA only and Troll is Wild Country's budget arm. Its just the Ushba with a few tweaks. I dont think you can get the Ushba in the UK anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.