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Gabe O.

[TR] Guye Peak - Southeast Gully 1/28/2017

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Trip: Guye Peak - Southeast Gully

 

Date: 1/28/2017

 

Trip Report:

Fil and I climbed the southeast gully on Guye Peak on Saturday. The bottom half of the gully was in the inversion cloud layer and was in great condition - nice alpine ice for the most part once it gets steep. Great sticks with our tools. We soloed it without much difficulty.

 

Roped up for the second half and climbed 4 pitches. The chockstone that some people seem to have trouble passing was more or less covered in snow. Our 3rd pitch ended up being on crappy wet and snow covered rock - completely avoidable if you traverse right out of gully and climb above (on snow) when you see no more snow/ice to climb.

 

The higher we got the wetter the snow became but the angle mellowed out so it was manageable.

 

credit goes to niroyb for the sick video edit below:

 

[video:youtube]

 

Gear Notes:

Light alpine rack + few screws, knife blades, and pickets.

70m rope Used every form of protection at least once.

 

Approach Notes:

Parked in Alpental Parking lot and followed Ober and then Unter strasse roads up above Sahlie Ski Club

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Interesting ice tools, what are those?

 

Those are my partners (Fil's), but they are e-climb tools.

I think an older version of these: https://www.e-climb.com/en/cryo-ice-axes/22-ice-axe-cryo-p.html.

 

I've used the before a few times and love them. Especially for steep snow. The spikes on the bottom make for great traction when holding them below the pick and pushing them into the slope.

Edited by Gabe O.

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:tup: :tup: Thanks for the report and video. Was pondering on where to go, this TR sold me on wanting to do this route soon. :grin: Also the video was highly informative on giving one an idea of the route. Very inspiring for getting back into video photography.

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:tup: :tup: Thanks for the report and video. Was pondering on where to go, this TR sold me on wanting to do this route soon. :grin: Also the video was highly informative on giving one an idea of the route. Very inspiring for getting back into video photography.

 

Thanks, Josh!

It was a fun route for sure. Nick's edits have inspired me to think about getting into it as well (Fil's GoPro was used for this video).

Edited by Gabe O.

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