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OlympicMtnBoy

question Women's Weather/waterproof Belay Jacket?

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My wife wants one for Christmas, and then she will stop borrowing mine all the time.

 

I can't seem to find much out there right now though, am I using the internets wrong?

 

I have an OR synthetic puffy with a light goretex shell that I got on clearance a few years ago but they don't seem to make it anymore.

 

WildThings no longer makes their belay parka, neither does NW Alpine, technically those were water resistant though.

 

Aside from dropping $500 on patagucci or arteryx are there any other options for a reasonable waterproof/highly water resistant and warm synthetic jacket? I'm not talking midlayer weight, there is an explosion of those. She needs something for belaying me ice climbing in our drippy weather and for throwing on at ski touring rest breaks. Both of those happen in very wet conditions around here sometimes.

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I guess it depends on how waterproof you really need it to be. My wife has a Rab Neutrino (or maybe infinity? They are similar). She really loves it. She actually has a mens but it also comes in a womens. At regular price they aren't cheap though either.

 

It is moisture resistant and does well in snow and cold temps. If it really is going to be drippy she either carries a shell that can go over or often carries mid-weight insulation instead.

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Not sure anyone makes a completely waterproof belay-specific jacket, unless you buy one of those $900 options from Arc'teryx= second mortgage. These jackets are more for skiing than climbing.

 

Outdoor Research has their Fllodlight Jacket which is their alpine climbing specific down belay jacket with a waterproof shell, but it isn't seam-taped. I've tried this on at the shop and I personally don't think it's as warm as other options out there. They need to fill it with more down!

 

Outdoor Research also has their Diode Hooded Jacket which is a blend of synthetic PrimaLoft and 700 fill down.

 

For synthetics, Outdoor Research came out with their new Perch Belay Jacket this fall. 200 g/m2 of PrimaLoft Gold on the body and 180 g/m2 in the sleeves/hood. Reasonably priced compared to the DAS and way cheaper than the Dually Belay Parka.

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Thanks for the input guys! I looked more at RAB stuff and they have the Inferno Shield that might be what I need, around $220 on sale which isn't horrible.

 

You are right, I checked my OR Havoc that she likes and it's Gore Windstopper. I'm note sure how this compares to some of the common Pertex options but i know it has a membrane laminate. While not touted as truly waterproof, I have bivied in it in the rain and been dry. I just know she is more likely to also grab something to walk the dog in the rain and not layer up (or belay me on an ice pitch in the drips).

 

The OR Perch looks sweet, but too bad they don't make a womens version. My wife is on the petite yet slightly busty side and mens XS can be tough, at least for a gift without having her try stuff on. I still don't trust down and icy rain.

 

 

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I personally use the Rab Neutrino Endurance Jacket for all my belay needs here in the Northeast. Rab added 25 more grams of down for the Fall 2016 model and this thing is a furnace. My personal opinion is Rab makes some of the best down clothing available. Plus, it's hydrophobic! I totally understand the need for a good synthetic coat though!

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Black Diamond makes the Stance Belay Parka in womens sizes (not Belay hoody, two different jackets) which is comparable to a DAS or OR Perch in terms of insulation. Unfortunately the shell fabric is just standard Pertex with DWR, so not truly waterproof.

 

Montbell makes the Thermawrap guide, which has 120g synthetic insulation in the body and a WP/B shell, but only in mens sizes...

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