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Climbing Training - Conjugate Periodization


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This is a cool idea. It reminds me a lot of the multi-pace training Frank Horwill (another Brit) used to train middle-distance runners (which is probably about the running equivalent of power endurance sport climbing). He also broke down all the energy systems involved and suggested training them simultaneously to a degree. It resulted in the UK dominating that event category internationally for most of the 80s. It's interesting to me because I've experimented with both concepts for distance running, rock climbing and alpine climbing. I definitely get bigger gains in an area with regular periodization, but can gain more experience due to better all-around readiness when using conjugated periodization. The more common thing seen in distance running is to do "base" period of ARCing/volume and then engage in the conjugated periodization.



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