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Showing results for tags 'ice climbing'.
[TR] Colfax Peak - West Ridge 10/14/2018
PorterM posted a topic in North CascadesTrip: Colfax Peak - West Ridge Trip Date: 10/14/2018 Trip Report: Brief TR and pictures from the west ridge of Colfax yesterday. Huge thanks to Eric Carter for bringing this line into the light and being willing to give a go beta-less. We had his beta so it was perhaps a less stressful endeavor. Sunday morning we looked at the C-H, hoping it would be in, but expecting it wouldn't be, and it wasn't (but getting there). So we wrapped around Colfax (on a pretty major boot pack) to take a look at the west ridge. With hard snow and a fun looking line we started up, following occasional faint boot marks from Eric's party. We opted to solo as we both felt comfortable with the positive, stiff, snow. Climbing was straight forward and very fun up the first steep section to gain the ridge, steepest slope was likely around 55-60 degrees. We followed the ridge to a rock face and saw the snow couloir down to the south, we tied an equivocation hitch, rapped into the gully, pulled and coiled the rope, and continued up. The gully was very easy, perhaps 45 degrees on great snow and steepening up to 55ish near the tight exit with some alpine ice. Here we followed the cliffy headwall left and after a steep soft down-climb into the upper chutes of the C-H (probably the scariest part of the climb, but would be easy to protect with pickets). From there we followed the standard route up to the summit, encountering our steepest climbing (65 degrees? Maybe a few steeper steps? Never actually measured) and a mix of hard snice (snow/ice), breakable crust over powder, and more stiff snow. We had a blast as we wove our way up the chutes toward the top. We must have had our heads down as we climbed because about 150ft from the top we missed an obvious left hand gully that has an easy top out. Instead we ended up with 15 to the top of very steep snice and rime covered rocks, we pitched this out, and Peter lead us to the summit plateau and belayed me up. Route took 3hrs bottom to top only stopping to rappel and pitch out the last section. We descended the East ridge (one rap on good tat) and had to end run a crack on the Coleman all the way to the east, long detour, just as Carter mentioned. Lots of new snow up there but with cold temps things stayed solid and we never punched through any cracks. Colfax ice, sorry no better photos, upper curtain on C-H is not yet fat enough for our ability. Looking at the start of the West Ridge Missed everything until we were in the couloir Sorry I didn't get many photos, here is the first stretch of the upper gullies of the C-H Next 2 photos we are already too far right to have an easy top out Baker, large y shaped crack requires an end run to the East One short rappel on tat to get off the east ridge and to the col between Baker and Colfax Long afternoon shadows as we near the trail Fun route, deserves more ascents!! If I were to grade it I'd say grade 3, steep snow 65deg ?PG13?. Not sure this route would always get a danger rating, would depend on what the gullies do in the spring, maybe they'd be easier to protect and slightly lower angle. Gear Notes: Brought screws, pins, cams, and nuts, used none. Approach Notes: Heliotrope trail
Looking To Create A Dry-Tooling Crag
Kposaune posted a topic in Climbing PartnersHello! I’m interested in setting some drytooling routes up at a wall that currently only has one route on it, and there’s space for more. Problem is, I don’t have a drill(yet) so I would buy the anchors if you can supply ze drill. Hypothetically, you could put up a multipitch drytooling route with enough effort, but I’m just trying to make something I can tr solo and get pumped, lead some and have some bad ass steinpull lock offs and big movements to bomber pockets. The rock does not generally lend itself to drytooling, but I was interested in drilling and/or manufacturing holds like what is apparently done in Europe. Before you get hot and bothered about it, check out the route to the right. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114778289/the-ascentionist Now the rock just to the left of this route and for about 40ft. Wide and 100+ ft tall is good. At the bottom it’s overhanging, and eases up towards the top. The bad is the top of this particular ledge system is a fair amount of work with a matic. I am no stranger to the digging and choss trundling, but I would hope to find someone who may have some ideas about what constitutes a good drytooling route, knows how to make the pockets/edges when holds are not present, or has a drill and wants to swing stuff around. Shuksan Crag is entirely too far to drive all the time! Kyle
Crevasses on Mt Hood-kid needs a belay
Crevasse cragging posted a topic in Climbing PartnersCheers, so this morning I found a ton of crevasses within a couples hours hike of timberline lodge on Hood. I stayed close by the edge because I got there late but if you get there early there’s potentially hundreds of climbable routes. I honestly can’t tell how long they are but the one I checked out nearby the edge was perfect because you could walk in from the moraine slope instead of moving over the glacier. It had 10 ft walls perfect for trying it out and sweet walls and corners that were 50+ ft with everything from dead vertical to overhanging. And the corners were just awesome you could’ve wedged yourself up into the funkiest spots. It’s obviously not great ice but even with the sun coming up it stayed hard enough that it was tricky to get tools out and I put my stakes on the glacier with the sun on them and they held a perfect anchor for at least an hr. I know a lot of people go here and there’s even a trip organized for September but if anybody lives around Hood, I live ten minutes from timberline, and it’d be great to find a belay partner. I’ve been messing around with a double belay device by myself and it definitely works but it’s beyond tricky on most steep ice. I work most days but I should have off at least once a week to go up in the am and I can go up at night most days. I’m definitely a beginner but I get out there a ton so while I might not send the craziest stuff I can at least promise I’ll remember to place the anchor and just overall not do dumb stuff. Ill be here for a while and it only gets better up there.... reach out anytime. -Trevor Ps- there’s some sweet not-too-chossy boulders all over Hood too
for sale Scarpa Phantom 6000s, size 42, Like new - $600
bhoule187 posted a topic in The Yard Sale
sold! Petzl Nomic Pair – Great Shape
Luzak00 posted a topic in The Yard SaleSOLD, SORRY FOLKS I've got a pair of Nomics that I never really used much and won't be using for the foreseeable future – I'd like to get them a new home. They're in great shape – Ice picks have been filed only a little (see the silver on pictures #3 and #5, in particular), the shafts have only a few surface nicks, and the bottom grip/spike area is in fantastic shape. I'll ship these with the rubber tips that come new with them from Petzl and the tools to swap out the picks or fit a hammer onto the head. Price is $330 + $20 shipping for the pair. Local San Francisco/Oakland area people can save on the shipping and arrange a local swap. I've got Venmo and PayPal. Other payment methods may be amenable. Contact me via PM. SOLD, SORRY FOLKS
Leavenworth, WA Ice Conditions?
NJW posted a topic in Ice Climbing ForumHi All, I'm doing a mixed route in the area on Friday, and wondering if I should extend my trip to Saturday for some ice. Given the recent conditions, it seems dismal. With the coming weather this week, how do we feel about ice climbing this weekend? Thanks much!
Trip: Bridge River near Lillooet - Bitcoin Billionaire Trip Date: 01/07/2018 Trip Report: Steve Janes, Danny O'Farrell and I climbed a new route off Bridge River on Jan 7/2017. After working in the area for a few years Danny noticed an attractive flow of ice high up the valley that had yet to be climbed. After driving by the previous day we knew that top pitch was in, and looking good. Photo Credit: Steve Janes After a 90 minute approach we were surprised to see another curtain of ice slightly off what we thought was going to be our start point- with the grade 4 ice looking good we started the climb there. Here's Danny belaying me on the first pitch. Another view of the first pitch which felt like a WI4- pitch. We were pleasantly surprised and excited to see this ice so low on the route. Going in we thought we'd be mixed climbing our way to the upper tier. Steve Janes dealing with the first difficulties on the memorable second pitch. Once we got going things only got better- after the first pitch we were drawn into a tight chimney and climbed thru some difficulties in the M6 range. Here's Danny making his way, or squeezing his way up the memorable 2'nd pitch. Here's Danny nearing the top of the second pitch. Once out of the chimney we climbed thru some easy grade 2 ice and one tricky M4 slab section before finding another M6 chimney. Here's Steve Janes dealing with the first tricky section of this pitch. Photo Credit: Danny O'Farrell Once above the second Chimney we pitched out a short 25 meter grade 2 ice pitch before climbing the WI 4- upper tier of ice. This was a really enjoyable day out with great company, this route has an alpine feel to it and is worthy of repeat climbs! Bitcoin Billionaire: WI4-, M6, 325 Meters P1- 55 meters WI 4- First Pitch P2- 55 meters WI3/M6 The Fun Chimney P3- WI2/M4 65 Meters The snow slope that had the low 45 degree slab (tricky) need to simul climb a short distance in order to reach a tree belay. P4- 30 Meters WI2 P5- 55 Meters WI3/M6 The roof pull then second Chimney P6- 25 Meters WI2 Quick Pitch to the upper curtain P7- 45 Meters WI 4- The wet upper pitch Here's a view of the route from the Bridge River road. Gear Notes: Rack of screws- heavy up on 13's, good idea to have a couple 10's as well, Rack of cams to #3, some pins knifeblades, half ropes Approach Notes: Approximately 43.5 km from the turnoff in Lillooet or 6.5 km before Terzaghi Dam. The route lies between the already established routes Salmon Stakes and A New Leash on Life” along the highway on the east side of the river.