scott

backing up further is up to the climber i guess. i just like to keep moving and not have to bother with another system. as long as the rope is well anchored, you could tie the rope into a piece 25ft up or so with a clove hitch after you pass it, and then clip a sling that is girth hitched to your harness to the rope with a locker. if you fall, you won't go past the piece the rope is tied into. this has the advantage of being a do it once and forget about it method.

For toproping, the soloist works really well. if you pump out you can sit on the rope like with an ascender. it feeds very well. i would tie the rope back into the pro with a clove hitch after you pass it) every 50 feet or so so that the weight of the rope doesn't begin to pull the soloist sideways. the trick with using the soloist is to get the right amount of tension between the harness and the chest harness so that the thing doesn't twist or turn sideways easily, but not so much tension that you can't do reachy moves. the soloist doesn't hold upside down falls. the silent partner does, but is tricky to use and will not lock up easily if you want to rest on the rope when toproping. it takes a real fall to lock up the silent partner. to back up a soloist used while toproping, just tie a looping knot in the rope beneath you- the soloist will snag on the knot if it doesn't catch.

madam i'm adam best said after sex

thanks. any input/ stories appreciated...

any thoughts on what routes are accessible, which of these are safest (least threatened from avalanche) etc?

potassium is supposed to help. eat bananas

Just keep calling-- someone will pick up eventually...

hey caveman someone is posting in my name. i did not write that post suggesting that you and fred beckey engage in lewd acts. i received your personal message reply and was quite confused. i am still confused. scott

[ 08-13-2002, 10:39 AM: Message edited by: scott ]

i did the berger-stanley route (the one in the nelson guide). There is only one real chimney pitch and it protects very well. The other pitches are sort of 5.8 stemming between two walls-- no problem. The last pitch of this route is hard for 5.9 and takes small nuts and aliens or tcus.

Direct North Buttress of Bear Mountain.

colin random memories of clean break. clean break is long, but maybe not grade v. more like grade iv. the rock gets kind of bad at the end. the first four pitches are great. there is some routefinding problems-- you move right around pitch four when you come to a top of a block and are face with a left leaning seam that looks like it could be a decent crack. it isn't-- move right. all of the harder pitches have good rock. you can use a0 and do it at 10-. i seem to recall needing a number three cam for a 10- fist crack. we were never "on-route" at the top- we moved too far left or something-- the rock was getting bad and we just took the path of least resistance. you could do it in a day, but it is more fun to hike in one evening and bivy then leave the next evening-- we did it that way and made it back just before dark. on the second pitch- don't go into that corner on the left with the offwidth at the top (no matter how attractive it seems at the time...not) instead climb the face to the right and go over the little roof. the first pitch does not stay hard all the way although it looks like it does. sorry to ruin your onsight. it was a good route.

nice work colin. if you look close in one of those photos you can see agent orange and necro-whatever retreating with amazing hardman speed.

i have the 3# 12 oz version- what is it called? i think you should be sure to get guy lines on the side walls, mine did not come with them.also, there is no awning over the door, so if you crack the door at the top to vent, snow will come in. you could make a little awning, though. i like the tent alot, but haven't used it in winter yet. [ 11-04-2001: Message edited by: scott ]

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ok, but i still find the name "kascade trad klan" offensive.

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