scott

you really don't need a tool at all. you might want to take one bd hook -- for one move on the third pitch where there is a carved out pin hole. when you pull the rope at the descent gully, it stands a good chance of getting wrapped around the dead tree that is sticking out-- happened to me twice. water, food, rainjacket, headlamp.

its toast, discard it. for top roping too.

if you have some offsets, the second aid pitch is no real problem. the third pitch has manky fixed gear, but you can just move off them quickly, then to a good cam crack. i thought the rotten block was fine, but the belay above the rotton block is three button bolts. there is a shallow thin crack above the rotton block that stays in the corner and goes up over a three foot roof. a slab move or two below and at this roof, i thought this was the crux. this will certainly be the crux if you don't use long runners on this pitch, since it moves back out of the corner after the little roof and there can be major rope drag problems, and some slighly flaring cam placements (but easy climbing). then you have a nice ledge for the last technical pitch. this route is really fun and is easy in a day, especially if you fix the first two.

they make me fart like nothing else. just something to keep in mind.

kid rock's shoes?

Ok, I can call, but I am looking for average years -- is there ice by october 15th through - november 1? it looks like not, average temps don't drop below 30 until mid november.

anyone know if there is ice in valdez as early as the last two weeks in october? anywhere else in alaska this early? thanks.

This post is just what i needed today. In places where you don't have to bring a shit tube, I carry a paper supermarket sack with handles. The handles are key-- keeps your hands out of the way while you let it rip. Thank you all for this post.

obviously, it depends on the conditions. the person i did it with thought it was a little tough for a very short while, and he has guided 8,000 meters. we couldn't pick a route on the headwall area because it was cloudy, so we just climbed where we ran into it. the next people to do it after us died. it took us less than 7 hours round trip from camp. not very hard, but i would still bring a second tool and a couple of screws.

I did it in early april a long time ago. it was apparently the first ascent of the season. it was cloudy just below the ice pitches. we had a pitch or two of 50 to 60 degree neve/ ice (we didn't belay) and then 15 feet of WI 3 that was running with water. it was blue glacier ice and was kind of hard at 9600 feet. this was the only part where we belayed. bring two technical tools just in case the upper part of the route was easy, meandering around crevasses, and very scenic. the summit was struck by lightening just after we got there. the descent must have been cake- we ran down i think- i don't remember it. this is a good route to do car to car. the glacier approach was kind of awful, too many crevasses in the dark, punching through etc. also, the night before a huge piece broke off top of the coleman headwall area and came crashing down, house sized chunks we wandered by the next morning. it was warm. i would bring a few pickets and two ice screws.

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Cycling is the best weight loss exercise I have ever done. If you follow a program like the one outlined in 'the cyclists training bible' by friel, you will get in great shape. ten weeks of lots of miles at 140-150 heart rate, then start to add different types of intervals. you can burn thousands of calories in a few hours.

I'd be right at home just outside the asylum...

Thanks for the information. I am thinking of living out of a truck w/ camper or renting a cabin outside of town. anyplace close by with shacks in the woods? I am just about sold on the idea.

I have an opportunity to work in Anchorage for the summer, but am wondering about climbing, mountain biking, kayaking nearby. Is the Chugach interesting? Glacier climbing? Any resources? thanks

its the mendenhall towers outside of junneau. really incredible granite, new route potential. helicopter approach and terrible weather.

and by the way, NOW would be the ideal time to get on either of these routes

now ladies...simmer down.

anyone know how the crevasse situation might be for an unroped climber? is it really well covered up?

The Smoot guide says its c3 or something.

What is the consensus rating for Liberty Crack? I have heard C3 to A1. I think it is C1+ or C2. What about the Thin Red?

I've heard that you should cut 250 calories a day from your diet. More than that slows your metabolism too much. Also, get a cheap heart rate meter. Long workouts in zone 2-3 on a bike will cut fat quick.

ok alex- i'll look at the index guide again. and dru- let it be known that i plan on nailing city park into an easy 5.11... i'm sure no one will mind.

By which I mean pounding pins. Suggestions for routes in Washington in the A2-A3 range that offer good introduction to nailing? I am not interested in nailing stuff that is now normally done clean. I have done clean to C2 but no real nailing.

I don't think you can safely use an ascender for lead soloing.