scott

does anyone know about how long the 'death slabs' approach to half dome takes? i am trying to figure out if i should do the approach and fix the first few pitches, bivy at the base, go to big sandy the next day, then summit. or do the approach and try to get to big sandy in one day. i don't really want to carry gear to bivy the base...

above (or was it beneath?) the rotten block there is a possible bivy - ok for one person, sitting room for 2. i think here you are bivying on top of the rotten block. it has a great view and cool exposure.

no doubt it hurts after many pitches, but your feet get stronger and you learn how to place them so they don't hurt as much

thats cuz yer so strong now sporto

also the aiders, hammer, and any cam hooks. i emailed you.

i want the ledge and such. check your pm.

i lived there but never made it back onto the ice cap (lame) mostly b/c i couldn't afford the helicopter ride. mendenahall tower easiest route is 5.6 and some 50 degree snow, i have heard. there are also other good 6 pitch climbs back there and potential grade v or vi aid climbs. wait for good weather and then chopper in (with extra food).

drink more h20 before during and after.

i would include it -- croft also writes in his guide that along with dark star and red dihedral, it is one of the trilogy of difficult sierra rock climbs. also, the first ascent story with harding, someone else, and that random hitchiker who made it to the top is a classic. i guess i would include it b /c it is such a nice looking line, and like you said, once you see it, you want to climb it. the more beta you can get about 10c offwidth / chimney at 14,000 feet, the better. thanks

i will soon have thu, fri, sat , sun off. i live in san francisco area now and will head down to joshua tree every chance i get. let me know if you will be down that way and need a partner.

10d

ok thanks, its near table mountain and the grotto? i'll be in josh for thanksgiving

anyone climbed there? access issues, good winter crag? guidebook? thanks

this is why i recently bought a bicycle. i can get 2-6 free hours easier than i can get a full day or more-- i just roll out of my driveway and start from there. so i guess i'll start doing club rides and racing. shorter sport and trad routes and the occasional long route. this is going to be really interesting. thanks all...

i'm in california for now, but i'm sure i'll get all the baby apparatus. do they really shit 9 times a day?

my advice to you is to climb like there is no tomorrow.

i am thinking of letting my dog take care of the kid while i go out climbing. he is a fairly mellow, responsible guy... or just moving somewhere like boulder or bozeman or salt lake where good climbing is very accessible. i'm not worried about it, just wondering about people who continue to climb hard and also have a full life. i would rather my kid have an interesting father with his own interests than some boring McDad. i have seen people take kids to the crag. why not pack one up the walker spur?

i am thinking that if i have the discipline and will to wake up at 5am i can get in several hours of biking. i know i will be really tired much of the time, but this still seems posible, so i am starting to concentrate on endurance and less on technical climbing. this way i can still get out for a weekend and do pretty well at 5.9 a0. thanks

ok, so it seems that there will be three of us here in about 7 months. i am wondering what some of you who have kids have experienced -- have you had to more or less quit climbing because of time restrictions (30 to 40 hour work week)? do i absolutely have to wear dockers and get pale and fat? have you had to stop dreaming of longer routes in the mountains because they now seem irresponsible (my idea of longer and harder is the cassin, walker spur, that sort of fairly difficult classic)? i have a somewhat understanding spouse.

colorado crack, tangerine colored flake something or other (10b on back side of formation with figgers on a landscape). this last climb is really good.

thanks. now i just have to find some sucker to carry the pack through the chimneys.

next on my list, interested in beta on the wide sections, how run out are the offwidths and chimneys. thanks

it wasn't great, but it worked real cheap

trip report: pushed cork in, drank all of 2001 french wine. no sucking or breaking. drank some water in the middle of the night, thank god. feel pretty good this morning, all things considered.

ahh, can anyone tell me how to get this wine bottle open without a corkscrew? thnkx