Rodchester

Rope drag is dictated more by the placement of gear and slings extending the clip then whether or not you have twin or single ropes. This is true on rock or ice. I suppose that in identical positions, some twin systems may weigh more than a single, making it a little more difficult to pull, but I seriously doubt that rope drag with a twin system is inherently worse. Anybody? I am familiar with double/half rope systems and like them a lot for certain applications. Half/double ropes do allow you to clip alternatively and thus (when gear and slings are placed correctly) allowing one to reduce rope drag. I recommend AGAINST clipping a double/half rope as a twin (clipping both ropes to a single piece).

I have used both...Raven wins hands down. And considering its cheaper, is there even a question?

To be sure, this type of call up has happened MANY times in the past, including Korea, and most recently in GWI. When one enlists you enter into a contract with at least two (sometimes more) phases. Active duty, active reserve, and inactive reserve. The total term of the contract is presently 8 years. Post Vietnam I know it was 6 years until the mid to late 1980s, at which time it became 8 years. I know that during the Korea War era it was 8 years. So if you enlist for say 2 years active duty, you then are discharged from active duty but put either into the inactive reserves, or if you want or already agreed, are put into the active reserves (weekend warrior one weekend a month two weeks in summer in Reserve unit or National Guard) for 6 years. Usually a recall will only include those discharged from active duty within the past year. This is for various reasons, including conditioning, training, and other issues. I got out in later 1989 at the same time as another guy. I had been in for a total of 7+ years under an older six year enlistment, while the other guy had been in for 3 years and enlisted under the 8 year system. I got my COMPLETE honorable discharge the day I got out. He got pulled from college classes and sent to GWI. I drank beer and chased chicks. Anyway, I was a young child during Vietnam, but I do recall the draft issue very clearly because my brother was about to be taken (low-number) in the 1973 draft. He was about to just go ahead and enlist hoping he might have more control over his duty assignment and station, when Nixon cancelled the draft. This is not the draft and it is not Vietnam. Similarities? Sure. But there are MAJOR differences. Is there an issue with the size of the military? Sure. But it is not due to the enlistment rate. It is a budgetary and NSP issue. The question is more one of our present military "mission table of organization and equipment." It isn't a draft issue. You military and NSPS wonks out there know the clear differences in a military relying on recruitment and that of one on conscription. There are many differences, to many to list or discuss herein. rest assured, there are VERY few within the military, the NSPS community that want a draft of any type. That said, the issue does allow for some interesting discourse on the effects on the society, as well as the military. i read a great paper by an NSPS student in college regarding the effect of decreasing family size on the social willingness to allow a draft.

I am not familiar with the exact wording of the law, but usually when a law is passed to have one effect, and it unintentionally has another effect, the court has some wiggle room. I hope the judge really wiggles, or maybe she can get some backing in congress like the Thai woman received. This just Bull Shit!!!

I have the Lowe/Camp Ultralites and I love them. I think that PMS carries them.

If you are in Seattle, Outdoor and More is having a pretty good sale through the weekend. Everything is 20% off, even 20% off stuff that is already marked down. Some pretty damn good deals. I picked up a cam yesterday cheap. They have closeouts upstairs, hit-n-miss and mostly softgoods, that were originally marked down, then take an additional 40 % off, then take an additional 20% off....WOW!!! They had some pretty solid deals on ropes.

I wasn't sure if it was spray or news. Granted the Sherpa's story is news, but I just couldn't resist.

Everest Speed Record This is going to make Dan mad!!! There is no mention of this "record" being certified or verified. As such Dan must ignore it, indeed, make fun of it and attack personally the offending sherpa.

I have all seven editions of Freedom of the Hills, including an original first print run of the First Edition. I also have a hard bound version of O.H. Bonney's Guide to Wyoming Mountain Ranges, which is a hard bound collection of all of his field books for each range in Wyoming. This is a must reference book for climbing and hiking in Wyoming. very hard to find in a complete hard bound version.

Verified....or unverified?

My buddy has the MountainSmith Auspex which is basically a larger version of the MS Phantom. Good packs, very lightweight, but at 3300 cubic inches and with a frame sheet and single stay the Phantom is not really a "summit pack." I would call it a good alpine mountaiuneering pack for summer trips traveling light for a night or two. If you want something smaller, take a look at Lowe Packs. they tend to make realy good smaller sumit type packs. They have a new one out that looks very cool. Alpine Attack 20 Good luck....

The only bad thing that I can see coming out of it (which I think some implied in thier posts) is that it may give some the false sense that they can place a cam properly based solely on getting the green light from the cam...

Why don't you try another mountain?

Exit 38 has had by far rthe longest stretch of continueing problems in the area. The Exit 38 Bandit, as he is commonly referred to, is very good at breaking into climbers' cars, using some scanning equipment to scan credit cards and ATM cards, actually putting the cards back, and locking up your car: you never even know he was there until your account is overdraw!!! He has been at it for years and no one can stop him. Search the posts on this site. There is plenty of info on his dirty work posted here.

Alas...the finest exposed high altitude alpine shiter in the continental United States is gone....a thing of not so distant memory. However, a new form of high-tech blue bag has taken its place.

I like Lummux's picks. The OS actually involves VERY little actual climbing. Still all and all a fun experience, but the OS pales in comparison to the Exum. The Esat Ridge is a complex route involving lots of fairly diffcult route finding and a widfe mix of climbing skills. It is also easy to get a permit for it, because nobody does it (at least in comparision to the Exum and OS). Be prepared for snow on the upper route (ice axe and crampons MAY be needed or at least wanted). Another one to consider is the CMC Route on Mt. Moran. A much more remote less climbed (though still popular - you will not likely be alone) climb. It is somewhat involved and takes a little bit of route finding skills, but nothing hard. Rent a canoe and do it in two nights to really enjoy the scenery and the climb. An excellent fun alternative to the Grand crowds. Have fun!!!

REI also has a new and pretty cool thing for the REI On-Line Outlet. If you live near an REI retail store, you can have your order shipped to that REI store instead of to your home...and its FREE. That saves big time and makes buying certain items worth while that would other wise be cost cost prohibitive due to shipping costs. Pretty cool for the evil empire.

She is correct, but you misunderstood what she said. She is a Parks person, and technically the pass isn't going away TO THE DECREE THAT IT EXISTS ON PARK LANDS. It will go away as to FOREST SERVICE and BLM lands. Kep in mind that she is also no teven informed on the new bill. Also, it doesn't take effect, or more correctly loose its effect, until this fall.

Shoreline-Trango It appears that Trango has redesigned the flexcam (I like the old ones , especially in the mid to small sizes) so that the cams on smaller sizes are in direct opposition to each other. This is similar to the Splitter Gear cams, however these still have four cams which should keep them stable and allow for shallow placements. (I think Splitter Gear actually also had/has a four cam unit too). I spoke with someone in the "industry" that seemed optimistic that these would be effective and he said that they would be significantly stronger in the passive position. Don't quote me on that though. I am curious by not optimistic. They apparently aren't actually in stock right now. Further, they have gone up $5.00 per cam. I really like the old flex cams and felt that at $39.95 they were the best retail priced cam out there (read: value). Maybe the old ones will go on sale?

Not so sure that i would agree. Wearing the newer leathers with insulation on one day ice climbs is one thing, but on Denali or the Rupal Face? I disagree with the assumption that Twight would say to no longer use plastics in the world of Extreme Alpinism. Maybe I'm wrong, I mean I suck anyway.

I think that MH sleeping bags tend to be heavy "as advertised" and that on top of that they tend to actually be heavier than advertised. I did a little test a while bag on lightweight sleeping bags (2lb range & 15-25 degrees) and found that MH sleeping bags (Phantoms) weighed were consistently over the advertised weight, by between 5-7 ounces. On a "lightweight" sleeping bag, that is a HUGE difference. I’ve used a few of their tents, and can’t say they suck or anything, but I am not impressed either. Overall I find MH stuff to be bulky, heavy, and not very innovative. That said, I do tend to agree that their stuff is well built. So its not bad, and a deal is a deal. Good luck...

Steve R: Were you with a Asain woman, who I would assume is your wife? You were picking up your snowshoes at the hogs' back? Yep, that was us...shitty conditions huh?

No...that was a good buddy of mine ehlping me with the newbies.

Now that sounds right to me.....

AJ: We were a group of seven camped at the Buttes. Were you the guys diggin s now cave on Sunday a.m.? What elevation is that area? My watch said 7100 ft, which I thought was more or less correct. The guys that my buddy and I were with are new to mountaineering and this was thier first trip up a glaciated peak. After we came down, one of them said he had read in Smoot's book that we were at 9000 ft. I know it can't be that high. Anyone know the elevation for the Baker CD route high camp area below the Black Buttes?