Thomas
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Posts posted by Thomas
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Jason,
The Moaning Tree Wall is in the Cal cheak climbing area south of Whistler, BC. The guidebook has detailed information for finding the ice and can be read (...purchased) at MEC.
Tom
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Spent the day top-roping thinish ice, grade 3 to 4, at the Moaning Tree wall. Not thick enough for screws yet, but the ice is rapidly getting fatter, weather conditions permitting of course.
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I wore bibs for years, and now I've switched over to a very lightweight, high waisted pant with suspenders and full side zips (the waterproof kind with no storm flaps). These pants weigh only a third of what the MEC bibs weigh. I've yet to have any problems with snow in my pants when climbing ice or skiing. My 2 cents.
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Definitly check out Climb On when in Squamish. I've had great service there.
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I have Metolius tcu's and never had any problems, other than the wires can get bent during a fall.
![[hell no]](graemlins/hellno3d.gif)
Never tried using aliens. Hear they are great for aid.
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No officer, my car doesn't smell like herb....it's the pine tree air freshener....yes, I understand I have the right to remain silent....
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Jesse, I'll pass on your email to Chris. I see him every so often at Vertical Reality in Surrey. I'm heading back to the island to work so spring is out for me, but maybe I'll see you out in the hills some time. Rumour has it you're a bit taller than when I last saw you 14 years ago or so. Me and Dave are still short asses. Good luck with those pickets.
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Look at getting the USHBA basic ascender for climbing on a fixed line. I have used it tons at the Smoke Bluffs and it's bomber. Locks instantly every time with zero rope slippage. Can be set up for use as a prussik and hauler too, but doesn't really work for jumaring. For climbing by yourself on a fixed line, this is the real deal.
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As Matt mentions, pickets placed vertically are often useless unless placed in hard neve' in the summer/fall. 90% of the time I place pickets as a deadman.
Jesse, I am friends with David Larson (aka "stu") and Chris Wilson (he climbs now too) Remember being assaulted by the old man with the cane at the bus stop on 152nd. You were probably 12 years old or so at the time.
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I carry them with two biners clipped to the picket, one at the end and the other a few holes up from the other end. If you then clip a shoulder length sling to the biners, and put your head and one arm through the sling (like you would normally carry slings around your neck and one arm) the picket will stay tucked up against one side of your back. Works when wearing a pack to.
Then to place the picket you just pull the sling over head and unclip one biner and it already has a quickdraw. Confused? I am.
hey, you didn't skate in White Rock as kid did you?
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As a forester working on Vancouver Island, I have bear encounters on an almost daily basis. I carry bear spray, but not for the Black Bears, but for the Cougars. As long as you don't surprise a bear, or get between a mom and cubs, you're fine. I find that it's rare to even see bears when you are hiking on a trail in groups, talking etc.
If you are in Grizzly country, well that's another matter. Most Foresters working on the central coast of BC carry shot guns instead of Bear spray. Most for those of you in the USA, there ain't many Grizzlies down there to worry about.
BTW, have you ever tried firing off a can of bear spray? It has a range of 5 to 6 feet. Something to keep in mind
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Place Names
in Spray
Stoner, BC
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Not to offend you alcoholics, but forget the booze, it will only slow you down on the way in and the day after. Bring some kind herb, it only weighs an ounce! The time for booze is at the pub after the trip
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Nice photo. Got me psyched now. Looks like a lot of options for this weekend. Thanks.
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I think I'll stay away from any 5th class FWA's. The regular route will do just fine for now.
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Thanks for the beta. As for the Cheam Range, we considered trying Lady peak last Sunday, but weren't sure of the snow conditions up there. Heard of any winter ascents of Williams peak. It was looking sweet on Sunday.
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Thanks for the beta Matt. I've been up there in the summer a few times, but now that I have skis, I'm itching to get up there in the winter. I've heard that the winter approach is from the highway. Did you head up from the highway or did you manage to get in the logging road?
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Hey Dru,
What do you think Matier would be like now. Forecast is for sun and cloud all week. So if it doesn't dump might have a go at it.
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No I am not Thomas Kutter, actually I'm Thomas Porsborg. As for the Surrey comment, I can't even be bothered
![[Moon]](graemlins/moon.gif)
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Do you know if the 'Big' gully in the North west corner of the cirque has been climbed? It leads up to a notch in the summit ridge of Edge. I've been up there a number of times over the years but it has never been 'in'. "WE" were in there last weekend and the gully had a waterfall that came down over overhanging rock, so it would be hard ice if it froze, but I think this could be bypassed on rock on the east side.
"We" went up the gully to the South of Blanshard to scope out the conditions and there was lots of smears there from 2-4+. Unfortunately we were a week late and had to dodge ice bombs due to the warm temps.
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What if you answer "NO" to all of the questions. Is that wrong?
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Easy Dru, not trying to score any of your FA's.
I'm in the Forest industry, and as result of the American aggression against my trade, I've been laid off for the last month, so I've been climbing.
"We" are a couple of guys from Surrey. I've met you before through the VOC. I went to school with Mike Guite, whom I think you know.
So, I guess as far as you know they haven't been climbed, YET!
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We were up there yesterday. Tried to approach from Lindeman lake, but the snow in the Avi chutes had a 1 inch crust on top of unconsolidated "ball bearings" (for lack of a better description), so we bailed 3/4 of the way up the slope. In November we approached via the Flora Lake trail, much easier and faster, esp. w/ skis.
Do you know if they've been climbed at all?
As for the big cliff at the outlet of lindeman, the wet streaks had significant ice smears at the top, but the bottom 1/2 of the cliff was still ice free. That cliff is steep!
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Does anyone know of any routes that have been done on the Gargoyles directly above Lindeman Lake in the Chilliwack Valley?
When you carry it, what camera gear do you carry>
in The Gear Critic
Posted
If you can only carry one camera (e.g. for technical climbing), get a good point and shoot. My vote is for the Yashica T4. Had mine for 3 years, its been ice climbing and winter mountaineering and I've never had a problem with it.