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bcollins

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Everything posted by bcollins

  1. Tooth Sat.??

    Shit I know it's the Tooth, but it's close and I have to be back home by about 3 pm. Anyone wanna run up it? Barry
  2. Index anyone???

    Maybe Sat.??? Looking for partner to do c1-2 route on upper town wall. I've had 2 trips to the Valley under my belt, just got to get on the rock. No hassles, just lot's of fun. I have about 1/3 of the rack, ropes, etc. Ready to go. Get back to me. Barry
  3. Index anyone???

    Hey come on people. I promise I won't bring my hammer!!!!!
  4. Feathered Friends

    Backpackers supply in Tacoma's probably got it, they got a ton of books. 253-472-4402
  5. Say at Curry Village? Thanks, Barry
  6. Guye Peak

    My God, will spring ever come?? Inactivity is driving us insane!
  7. Index Town Wall TR

    Got up on the Upper Town Wall this last Sat. during the blizzard of 03! Drove up Friday night, crashed in the SUV and hauled the bags to the base of Green Draggon. My partner Rob was able to put up one long, stout pitch (A2) in snowstorm. Coldest 4 hr. belay of my life! Usually the top of the pitch ends in about 30-40 ft. of easy free climbing but Rob ended up digging through snow to frig in pins, offset Aliens and small nuts. Lowering off in the near dark, we hung the ledge off the static rope and crawled in, enduring a long, wet night. Snow turned to rain and in the morning we had lost all ambition to even clean the pitch, let alone push our route further.......drenched, tired, and having gotten our ass thoroughly kicked, we ditched our gear and drove home with plans to clean the pitch on Tuesday (today) Of course today was just as bad (although warmer). Jugging up in a downpour, I wondered why the hell we put ourselves through this misery! Shouldn't I have been snowboarding? Anyway the ledges had melted out, and an hour later we were pulling the ropes and packing out. The upper wall is a torrent, with spray and meltwater flooding out all but the largest roofs. Aid climbing in the rain is not too bad, I hardly noticed it because I was so absorbed in the dynamics of climbing. The belays are harsh though........ All in all quite the adventure. Still we'll give it another couple of months for the weather to improve.
  8. Index Town Wall TR

    Interesting and informative posts my friends. Flebs comment about says our feelings about all this. When cleaning the pitch on Tuesday in a comparatively mild but heavy rain, we realized the mistake of using pins where Rob did. Whatever call we made at the beginning of the climb was mute by that point.........Rob was worked, cold, and needed good gear quick and his call was to have pins tagged up. I don't agree with the "I'd use pins but would not mention it on this website" crap. Best to be real and honest about what we do so we can learn from the mistakes of ourselves and others. Lambones beta on Narrow Arrow was right on, now we all know of a relatively dry route to work in crappy weather. That's what this site is all about. So the moral is........... Pick your route and weather carefully to avoid placing pins on a hammerless route. Rob and........
  9. Index Town Wall TR

    To Lamb and the other unknowing purists........... I'm interested in how many of you have actually LED a pitch in full winter conditions? There is an immense difference between climbing in the rain vs. what we experienced on 3/9/03. It was 30 degrees, with frozen rain and snow. Icewater was pouring down not just the route, but the whole wall from approx. 30 inches of wet, new snow deposited hours earlier. Placing a pin doesn't sound too bad now does it. -Rob
  10. New York Gully TR

    Now this is a trip report. Direct, consice, and no bullshit. I hope you post more reports, cuz this is what's needed on this site. Tell us the gear, the time, and leave the rest to those who have the balls to get up and climb! Your partner rocks for following up such a sufferfest without spikes!! Damnit this is what climbing is all about! Index epic to fo
  11. TR: Dragontail peak, triple couloirs

    Damn, nice report. Hoping to do TC this next weekend but looks like lot's of freshies to really load up the mtn's. Oh well, it'll wait for later...........
  12. Hiway 20 update

    Silver Star Rocks for skiing!!
  13. chair peak

    Kinda humourous to read the postings on Friday about the huddling masses that would be on the route, and then to cruise it with maybe a 20 min. delay at the base. Thanks John for being the perfect "instant partner". I'm 3 for 3 for meeting partners on this website on short notice. I've knocked off Stuart West and North ridge's and now Chair with partners I met here on maybe 2 days notice!!! Love it, only in America. Also John check e-mail for info about biner
  14. Ok, reading all these posts about Chair and Guye has me salivating.........one stout partner needed to do No. Face Chair, NE Buttress or Guye. Any takers? Lot's of experience here........McClellan Butte has a nice No. face line on it too. Let's jump on it before the weather moves in, or even while it does. Avy conditions are optimal. Post here or message me. We can meet up in No. Bend. Saturday is the day to summit!! Barry
  15. Something alpine this Sat. near Snoqualmie

    Hey people, can't seem to access my private mail. Anyway JJ post here, call me at 253-566-4748 or e-mail at bcollins99@juno.com We'll firm up who's bringing what and meet up at say..................5 am??? I'll be back from work today at 5-6 pm Looking forward to climbing with you tomorrow. Barry
  16. Muir snow report?

    What's going on? Anyone up there yet? Barry
  17. Alpine prospects this season

    Wondering what others think about this present season. I think there will be awesome opportunities for alpine routes if this dry season cont. to develop as predicted. Stuart, D-tail, etc. may be possible with primo mixed conditions..........imagine the ice that'll form in Triple Couliours and other No. facing routes. There will be snow soon, but approaches may be firm and doable. Any other route suggestions or thoughts?
  18. Trip Report: European Styled Ascent of The Toothie

    Not quite sure what to say about all this. I'm glad that there aren't fixed ropes and crap to negotiate around to Pinapple Pass. That part isn't hard at all, and if your pissing about that then what are you doing climbing in the NW? And you could have placed more gear on the first pitch.........one piece isn't enough but that's your fault, not the fact that theres no fixed gear. And the tree at the top is bomber, I've rapped that a dozen times and so has a million other climbers, so throw another sling on it and move, I can't believe anyone would downclimb that pitch, let alone do it solo rather than rap, are you crazy? And if you even thought of placing a bolt on the tooth then you really need your European head examined, cuz that just ain't done around these parts my friend. These here are real mtns for real men so suck it up buddy and quit whining. Geez, bolting the So. face of the Tooth...........come on! Barry
  19. Muir snow report?

    Heading up on Tuesday, report to follow
  20. Stuart No. Ridge Sunday

    Need partner to climb No. ridge this Sunday. Plan was to leave Sat. night for a car-car blast via Goat Pass. I've done most of the No. ridge and I'm familiar with the Cascadian descent. Come on someone, my gear is in the car and the weather is good so LET'S GO!!! I would consider something else but I'm jacked for Stuart. Post here, e-mail me at bcollins99@juno.com or call. 253-566-4748 Barry
  21. Need partner desperately for No. Ridge. Let's leave Sat. night, back by Sunday. Partner had to bail at last minute!!! Barry
  22. Injury on Baker???

    Heard from a distant aquaintance of someone on Baker about a guy glissading with crampons on..........you can guess how this ended, something about a compound tib fx. Anyone heard anything?
  23. Looking for recent beta for a Stuart No. ridge trip next weekend via Goat pass. Can the Stuart be crossed without an axe, crampons or boots???? I'd rather dispense with all that crap and carryover light with just approach and rock shoes. Thanks, Barry
  24. Stuart glacier conditions/beta???

    Amazing! Thanks for the reflective info without any spray. Bailing after that long of an approach would really piss me off, and I understand how icy conditions can be on a mostly north facing glacier in the early am. I think I'll see if a pair of G-12's will hold up on my approach shoes, and take a light axe. BTW, what's the best piece to protect the gendarme off-width? Barry
  25. Full NR of Stuart

    For complete No. Ridge this time of year, I'd go in via Mtneer Creek and descend the Cascadian. (obvious logistical car hassles but I think it's worth the drive) As Russ said, break left and cross the creek. Traverse around on benches towards Mtneer Creek but avoid staying high on the large boulder field as you head towards the No. ridge. If you traverse to the creek you'll find a trail on it's west side that will head upvalley. The boulder field will SLOW YOU DOWN. You will not need an ice axe or crampons and can do the appoach to the No. Ridge in approach shoes. BTW......looking at doing the upper No. ridge via Goat next weekend. Anyone been on the Stuart recently??? Is it possible to traverse it now without an ice axe or crampons while wearing appoach shoes??? I'd almost rather take 2 long ice screws and belay across than take an axe, boots, and crampons. This is a one day trip from the Teanaway. Any suggestions? Barry
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