max

A buddy of mine just released this video. Check it.

Nicotine is a stimulant just like caffeine. If you're familiar enough with it to not get the pukes, and use it infrequently enough to not have built a tolerance, this is a pretty good method. A chewing Primer for the aspiring alpinist-spitter: Get mint, it doesn't taste so bad. DO NOT get any other flavors; their sick! To acclimate yourself to it, try a peanut m&m sized dip placed squarely in the lower lip. When you start to feel dizzy/light headed, immediately remove the plug. If you take it out right then, you most likely won't get sick. If you ride it out... get ready. But continue this several times and eventually you'll tolerate it enough to use at your convenience. If you're already a smoker, you may still need to acclimate yourself; I've known smokers who've really got their ass kicked by their first chew. Figure out a "spitter" method for your car. Go disposable: mMost people are satisfied with an empty 16 oz pepsi bottle, but you may want something less see through! Don't try a pop can as a novice, you'll get slobber everywhere. As much as you may be tempted, don't use a water bottle because the flavor is hard to remove. Don't try spitting out the window; you'll get chew all over yourselves and your car. Be ready to take a shit. It is a stimulant, after all. Finding a good place to take a crap at 2 in the morning can be stressful. In my opinion, chewing is gross/inconvenient enough you likely won't use it enough to develop an addiction. Use it, don't abuse it! It really can be a useful drug.

For the record, there's also "Climber's Guide to Chuckanut Drive", also by Jason Henry, that has ~25 pages on Larrabee. I sent you a PM.

I know it's not very cool to say what people should, but I'd have no problem saying "If you're drunk, you shouldn't drive regardless of the inconvenience it may cause you." Seems to be a similar situation.

I think the reasoning you've used to "derived" that mtb is lazy could also be used to come to the conclusion skiing is lazy. Good luck with that!

Maybe ACK can speak to this, but I've found the gg2 doesn't provide enough friction! This is using a 10.5 rope, lowering a 175 dude at a pretty slow speed. I don't remember having this problem with the original.

Coming back from squamish, they us guard challenged our story of supposedly climbing in squamish by asking what kind of rock it was. I assume if you give them a story, they want to see you can back it up with some details.

Arpaio held a news conference Tuesday to release what he called new evidence that President Obama's birth certificate is fake. Arpaio says he's investigating that because some constituents asked him to — and, as Arpaio said to Fox News earlier this year when he announced he's running for a sixth term in November, he represents his constituents. "I'm the elected sheriff of Maricopa County — the 4 million people I'm responsible for," he said. Really puts his heart into his work! http://www.npr.org/2012/07/19/157012424/controversial-ariz-sheriffs-tactics-go-on-trial

No, Tosh chopped Ron Paul's route in Squamish. Counterfake it the one who crapped his pants.

Hey, I'd take the select climbs if you put up a complete email address! Dave davidmichaelbrannon at gmail dot com

Roping up is a tactic (action or process) used as part of an overall plan. Tactics in themselves are pretty hard to evaluate without the context of an overall strategy. Example: Cruise missile strikes: yeah or neah? Well, depends on the situation. I think you'll get better advise if you phase your question to compare two plans. If you're traveling as a team, you've got to have some sort of belay: running belays/fixed anchors/"body belays" (self arrest, bracing, ?). I would estimate that most people overestimate their ability to self arrest in some conditions. If you're planning on self arresting, make sure it seems reasonable given the conditions.

Personally, I disagree with this strategy. While a stud looped with a nut would be tolerable for a running piece, I would never use two of these alone for my rap anchor. As a running piece mid pitch, a nut-looped bolt has some backup from the pieces above and below, each hopefully more tolerant of violent jostling and outward pulls. As anchors, two looped bolts are all you've got, and (in my opinion) not sufficiently "solid" enough to be used as rap anchors. Otherwise, I think Quarryographer's solution is best for midpitch bolts w/o hangers.

hmm. Missed the ropes. I thought he was soloing, but I have yet to go back and watch again. Ropes... pfft. totally changes the scary factor.

? Please explain your jargon. This is all that I got out of google... I was blown away watching this... that was near death!

http://brk.to/fb1e Holy crap.

Has anyone heard what the visibility was like? Anyone up there that day?

Absolutely no appologies nessesary. I just don't know what hash tags are... Can you explain what your post accomplishes?

Man, I must be out of it. That was total gibberish to me. Is this one of those robot posters, like the one that keeps trying to sell sunglasses on cc.com? Can you please say that again, in verbiage your parents would understand. Please?

I'm surprised this isn't a age-discrimination issue...

He did.

Is it possible to have a thread around here that doesn't degrade to somebody pissing on someone else?

Here's mu answers: 1. The only GPS device I use now is my iPhone. It's marginal. I wouldn't suggest it. I have previously used Garmin... cv-70 or something like that, and one of those units that have a radio in it.. and some super old survey units. 2. From what I've heard, and my experience with my phone is that battery life/reliability is high on people's lists. But I think you may have mentioned that. 3. I've never been impressed with map displays on any unit, even a laptop screen. Nothing beats the detail and scope of a topo map. I'm tring to use a Delorm gauzetteer withthe coordinates gridded out and just use the lat/long feature on my phone. No idea how much differnt datum error from the topo. I actually never bring this when I'm climbing in the mountains.

What's the order number? More directly, are they part of the recalled order number 1149? Probably not, but something people will likely want to know.

I'm consistently surprised how little physical effort is required to exceed the "quit and turn around" threshold of most people, even "climbers". I'm not boasting. I don't get out that much. But the times I've worked, I've consistently been alone.

I've tried this guy several times. I chatted him up in person several times, and each time he was very nice, but resolute about climbing: no go. He seemed very concerned about liability.