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max

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Everything posted by max

  1. Mount Baker - Sherman Peak Avalanche 10-21-13

    bad ass! PS: thanks for the information! Your work helps bring the science to the people in an accessible and interesting way.
  2. NR Baker Conditions

    Word on TAY is that the road is open. http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=29386.0
  3. Was John Wayne gay?

    ... fight the power!
  4. Keepers of the Beat

    h-pay, bitches.
  5. Bolting Moratorium in NCNP

    There is the third option of no rap station at all. Can't do it w/o leaving webbing, don't do it. I know that sounds a bit fanatical, but why should climbers exempt themselves from the the "Leave no trace" ethic? (Chris: cheers!) Part 2: I think outside of the Wilderness, the chains are superior to the tat.
  6. Bolting Moratorium in NCNP

    Two thoughts: 1. The Park and the Wilderness are two different beast, and should be managed differently. My take on the park is allow anchors where people will use them. It's a park. 2. Wilderness starts as a philosophical construct: a place free from the alterations of Man. As such, we should modify our actions to meet the philosophy, not the other way around. Sometimes this means making tough sacrifices.
  7. Does any body know about the tunnel at tunnel rock in the Smoke Bluffs? What purpose does it serve?
  8. yosemite?

    Probably better to rap the route... jk
  9. RIP Green mountain lookout

    http://blog.seattlepi.com/seattlepolitics/2013/05/08/u-s-judge-awards-70804-to-anti-lookout-lawyers/ Salt on the wound, for some.
  10. Free. I'll even deal with shipping if you promise you're actually interested, not just collecting crap. Only thing left is the jacket. 1. Hooks: 2. Large down puffy. Very puffy, but a little short for me (I'm 175/scrawny/long). Stained and slob-like, but warm. And free. 3. Trainer kite. Complete kit ready to fly. 3.1 sq m. 4. Smith sunglasses. Lots of interchangeable lenses. nice solid zipper case. Tortoise shell frames. Reasonably fashionable (I think)... and free. I'm getting rid of them b/c I know have prescriptions. 5. One serviceable/one out of commission 10.5x60 bicolor ropes. These guys weigh alot so you pick up in Bellingham. Gone Offer expires when ever I feel like it, check the dumpster if expired. I never notice I have PM's so call or text 360.319.3050 Dave
  11. eastwa: Got your message. Ropes are gone. Kite: If I don't hear back from T Newman by monday evening, the kite is yours. Voicemail me again with your address. Dave
  12. Hooks are spoken for but not picked up. I'll get in touch with you if that falls through. dave
  13. T Newman: The kite is yours. PM me your address and I'll send it. Offer Expires Monday evening. Sunglasses are spoken for, but your on the reserve list. dave
  14. POV camera and editing setup

    You don't want to find yourself on the wrong side of a gopro gap!
  15. Mt Hood

    Hey Fargo! Check this out: http://www.nwac.us/weatherdata/timberlineupper/ I got this from the sidebar On the NWAC site. "weather Data -> telemetry -> the little graph icon. Much easier to interpret!
  16. FYI I've purchased tickets to Palm Springs for about $250 RT from SEA. It may be cheaper and quicker if you've got a ride on the CA side...
  17. Winter Ascent of Mt. Rainier

    Austin: I've never climbed Rainier in the winter because I've never had the nuts. But I will offer the advice I've heard the most and that has made the most sense with my experiences: It's all about the weather. If you notice what's posted around here, you'll hear about a fair number of Hood, Rainier, and Baker climbs/partial climbs that go off without a hitch. And you'll also read a few winter epics/case analyses that invariably involve getting hit with sooner/quicker/stronger storms than predicted. Combine this with something you said that piqued my ear (please don't be offended if I've misinterpreted you): "it looks like the 28th is going to be the day" Given the pattern of weather here (Bellingham) over the last two weeks, there's been - something like 4 ft of snow in the last week - two or three mountain storm cycles that persisted and hit hard - maybe two periods of time with "good" weather lasting over two days. that a in seven chance of hitting it just right. - It takes most people at least two days to climb in the summer, it WILL take longer, and you MAY get slowed down.... Your chances hitting one of these windows are poor, and you better be sure you get it right. - It gets really shitty real fast at 11,000 - disaster situations often people making choices based on schedules, not conditions. Conditions are very dynamic now, so should your plans. So, to rap it up before I sound like Grampa Telemark, pay real close attention to the weather and don't underestimate the quickness and intensities winter storms can hit in the mountains.
  18. Good advice for others, just bad directions: Index is on Hwy2 (I'm sure Drederek knows this... )
  19. 9/11 truth in 5 minutes.

    If that video was supposed to convince me of something... I missed it in all the rapid cuts, chopped up quotes, over-layed text and voice, implied and explicit logical falicies, smarmy know-it-all-ness. That was 15 seconds of my time wasted.
  20. Climber Lost in Whiteout on Mt Hood

    Navigating on the flat in WAY easier than on the slope.... I worked for the FS doing stand analysis, drag line layouts, and marking sales. Most of this was done with compass bearings and pacing. Anyone who says pacing a bearing on a sidehill is easy is Wack! I think this guy's decision to hunker down was his best. High stakes navigation in the fog on a slope is a bad idea.
  21. Both North of Bishop right off of HWY 395, both south of HWY120 to Tioga Pass. One was a small grouping of sharp granite mini-domes east of the hwy about 1/2 a mile. Not a major area but had 2-30 sport climbs. I think this is them: 37° 45.447' N 118° 57.504' W Another was near here, RIGHT off the road. A small cliff of basalt and tuft-like stuff. 20-30 ft high max. Maybe this place? 37° 46.151' N 119° 0.305' W The name of the "area" was (something) pass. EDIT: AHA! THe New Rock and Road is online.... Deadman's Summit. Any insights? Thanks, Dave
  22. Banks Lake Ice

    Check this: http://www.wunderground.com/weatherstation/WXDailyHistory.asp?ID=KWAGRAND5&day=28&year=2012&month=11&graphspan=month It looks like the last few weeks have been pretty warm...
  23. SOLD

  24. uneven half ropes

    If you're speaking from a mechanical standpoint, one end feeds through the device and the whole show unravels. But I'm thinking you get that. From a reasoning standpoint, I think the logic goes that the largest, most published climbing safety book in america (the world?) says one of three main reasons people die rappelling is uneven ropes. I'm no actuary, but I think that means even ropes removes you from a hazard pool.
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