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Everything posted by David_Parker

  1. Tuolomne Meadows

    Don't forget Snake Dike on Half Dome...classic 5.7 (only one move) and killer view from the top. Try it on 'schrooms on a full moon!
  2. Kids rock shoes

    The resole of old tennies sounds good if I can't find cheap ones. Now, where do I buy soles and glue? I'm quite sure I can manage the belt sander thing! Dave
  3. C. Moser S12 Crampons FS

    Will, check your email!
  4. Stuart: Ice Cliff

    It really helps to know the approach along mountaineer creek. The first time I did the approach to Ice Cliff, I ended up in the boulder field. This is a huge mistake. There is a very nice path that follows along the creek. The only hard part is getting from the trail, across the creek coming from Stuart lake, over a minor ridge and through a swampy area and finding the path. Once you do though, it's easy walking in a beautiful forest. The boulder field is totally unnecessary and too hot! I'm glad I have this approach wired now because I still have not finished the route. If anyone is up for a car to car, email me!! I have the beta, you just need to be fast! I'll go anytime...even in fall when it's even icier! Dave
  5. Stuart: Ice Cliff

    What side did you pass the shrund? Did you have to get on rock? Dave
  6. knives for climbing.

    Beck, I believe the topic was "climbing knives". All those activities you do with your swiss army knife I do around the campfire or at the trailhead. I always check my crampons before I leave on a climb. I agree with you about the versitility of a swiss army or leatherman. I have one and I bring it camping or leave it in the car. But for the weight to use ratio, I take the spyderco on the actual climbing part of my trips. If you have a swiss army knife you can retrieve from your pocket and open with the same hand I have never seen that model. Teeth don't count either. Either that or it's a 5.12 move and I can't open knives at 5.12! As far as protection goes, if you pull out a knife on an attacker you better know how to use it and be prepared to use it and you better be sure your intruder isn't packing heat. I'll bet on the grizzly if you want to go hand to hand with him!
  7. The Ultimate Climbing Rig - Suggestions?

    I "loved" my 81 Toyota PU Long bed with the Brahma Canopy with boot seal to slider rear window until it broke in half. I had it set up with the plywood deck at wheel well height but they were in fold up sections to make a fore and aft compartment. Draw back, only two people although I did make two trips into the maze with 4 people and a dog. I'd love to find one in decent shape but they're pretty old now. My next rig was Mitsubishi Montero. I really liked the rear door that swung open. I had spare tire rack for bikes and could put sea kayaks on top. A rocket box would work well. This was a tough rig for off road and pretty good storage. I call it the poor man's Land Rover. I now have 95 4-runner. I specifically wanted 95 because I hate hatchbacks which all post 95 4-runners are. The tail gate- sliding rear window is much better for accessing gear without it all falling out. I like tail gates for sitting on or having a picknick! In both the 4-runner and Montero, I make a plywood shelf full width and about 1/2 the total depth of the rear storage area. This is great to put some gear under and some over without it actually resting on each other. The cooler is always handy thru the open window. I threw on the rocket box for my trip to Canada, so there was plenty of room. Not bad gas milage, best clearance, and oh so reliable. Don't go cheap, go with value! I also drove my own version of a self converted VW Bus in Europe for 6 months in the 80's and I can say I think I'd love to have a VW Eurovan Pop Top with all conveniences. That might work well with wife and kid, but so far it aint in the budget. Subaru Forester is a great car, especially with rocket box. Good leg room front and back, good clearance, all wheel drive and awsome gas milage. I drove one over North Cascades last week and it was pretty darn peppy for passing. I was amazed what that little 4 banger could do. Just don't like hatchbacks though. My next rig will be a Monster Truck with the extreme tow package to tow the battle cage around.
  8. knives for climbing.

    Swiss Army knives are for camping. The real key to the Spyderco (and like knives)is that you can open it with one hand and it locks. There are infinite scenarios where you will need to cut the rope or something else in an emergency...I'll let you suggest them. If that knife is not real handy, you'll regret it. Divers and kayakers carry knives in very convenient locations and climbers should too. In my opinion, even the top of your pack is too out of reach. PS: I guess if Clint used a swiss army knife on the Eiger then they are cool, but what if one of his arms was broken or useless. He'd still be hanging there like Toni Kurtz whom I also bet wishes he had a knife!
  9. knives for climbing.

    I have a spyderco that is always close to my heart when I climb. I don't know the model but it just has a pen clip (larger than a real pen clip). I don't rely on it though. I usually wear a vest with a breast pocket so I put it there. If I'm not wearing the vest, It goes in the front pouch of my bibs. If I'm not wearing those, then I put it in my regular pocket which is not very harness friendly or in the top of my pack. I like to have it real handy for above mentioned scenarios! I like this knife 'cause it's real sharp and real light. It cuts through anything but steam, fog, pitch dark, a driving blizzard and bullshit.
  10. Partner wanted Mt. Challenger

    I picked up erik off this web site and was not disappointed! (have fun with this line boys!) Let me just say I moved to Washington to be closer to the Cascades and do not have a regular partner. I have a tick list too and it isn't necesarily a shabby one. My situation is I'm married with a six year old son and am too flakey to be anyone's consistant partner. So nobody calls me! But I am also self employed and can take off whenever I want. As a result, I tend to be enticed only by worthwhile routes that will challege me and offer more importantly a lot of fun. I suspect many of you might think 41 is "old" but I don't think so. You may think I might be slow, but I don't think so. I share (somewhat) the same fears mentioned by Nolanr, so am often reluctant to respond to posts like this. It so happens I have met Wayne (at Banff film fest) and don't really know much about him. But I may just look into this as I have always wanted to venture into this area. Does anyone know Wayne and give a recommendation? If anyone wants to know more about me, ask me for my resume or ask erik. I also should say I am somewhat cautious of people who can't seem to use their real names. Makes me wonder what you are hiding? Maybe we should treat our profiles a little more seriously. Leave the jokes to the posts! ciao, Dave
  11. Mt. Constance

    Mt. Constance is in good shape right now if you are looking for some big vertical and safe, easy, but fun climbing. I soloed it on Saturday from the trailhead. Not as much snow at the lake as I expected but enough in Avalanche Canyon to move quickly up to the north chute. (The south chute has no snow!) Conditions were perfect hard neve! I took my crampons off once over on the east side and the terrible traverse was straight forward. This route offers great steep snow climbing mixed with fun 3rd/4th class rock scrambling. Getting off the summit block was the only tenuous moment. There were no other climbers on the mountain this particular day! Descend the normal route, it's great scree skiing!
  12. Mt. Rainier "Alpine Style"

    So does using camp Muir to sleep a few hours negate a "single push"? The problem with a single push is what time of day does that put you on the upper reaches of the mountain and what is happening to conditions? It's often not safe to be up there late when things are getting mushy down lower. I climbed Gibralter ledges route arriving at Muir at 8:30 pm and leaving at 2:00 am. To me this was "alpine" but not a single push. (I'll also argue this is more direct than Fuher Finger) I agree that single push and "alpine style" is not necessarily the same thing and most of all the Cascade peaks are climbed alpine style. I don't think using a tent and sleeping means you aren't climbing "alpine." Maybe I'm wrong.
  13. only two to go!

    Just thought you might be interested in the latest news from further east. http://www.edviesturs.com
  14. Need an old rope for roof work

    Eric, didn't you say you were saving that rope to retro fit the Hinterstoisser traverse? Now what are we going to do? DPP
  15. seeking new adventures

    I am also an avid sea kayaker and find that I can feel quite "remote" at times. At these times I often wonder what ramifications an accident would have. I have felt that the consequences could lead to death faster or more easily than when I'm ice climbing or alpine climbing. I am more inclined to carry a marine radio when kayaking than a cell phone when climbing. For anyone interested, I'm still looking for a partner to paddle some remote stuff on the west side of Vancouver Island, probably in June. You must be experienced paddler but do not need to own your own boat because I have an extra. DPP
  16. What makes a route classic?

    In spite the fact we have "gone around" on this subject, I'll comment because I missed it the first time and there may be others who have joined CC since it went around who also may have an opinion. It's a good subject and hopefully sprayproof! I'd like to think a classic climb has the same or similar attributes as a classy lady. She stands out in a crowd because of the way she is dressed or carries herself. She commands respect because she she is mysterious yet approachable. And finally she proves that your efforts to get to know her and your subsequent success exceed all your expectations. DPP
  17. Message for Who Cares

    I feel like I'm watching a fight to a hockey game. It was fun for a minute, but it's time to get back to the game. I actually find it hard to believe Who cares actually feels like what he posted. I think he did it to get you guys riled. If he did, it worked and now he's winning the fight. I find it best to just ignore him. Why lower yourselves to his level? Take care of the guy when you meet him in a dark alley! DPP
  18. Message for Who Cares

    I feel like I'm watching a fight to a hockey game. It was fun for a minute, but it's time to get back to the game. I actually find it hard to believe Who cares actually feels like what he posted. I think he did it to get you guys riled. If he did, it worked and now he's winning the fight. I find it best to just ignore him. Why lower yourselves to his level? Take care of the guy when you meet him in a dark alley! DPP
  19. Beta on Mt. Shasta

    Anyone know whats up with someone who puts in a link and it's not "hot?" (and I'm not talking about young chicks in pink shorts!!!)I know it's not my computer...or is it? DPP
  20. Gear Question: Anyone heard of Trezeta Boots?

    I have never had a problem with footwear made in Italy (especially leather! In fact I specifically seek out footwear made in Italy. Their lasts are the best, quality of leather and workmanship unsurpassed and their shoes/boots always last longer! I saw those in sierratrading post and they looked good to me. You can always return them if they don't fit....the most important factor! DPP
  21. Hwy 20 / Washington Pass

    I saw that waterfall about 5 years ago but did not climb it. Can you walk across the lake or do you need to stay on land? DPP
  22. Alpine/ ice boots

    Check out sierratradingpost.com. They have Scarpa Matterhorns and also another boot very popular in Europe that look pretty decent for a decent price too! DPP
  23. How to Pass a Knot while Rappeling

    Got any photos or diagrams to go with that? DPP
  24. Leather Mountain Boots

    Since I don't own these, I didn't put this in the for sale section. I just thought these looked like a pretty good deal if anyone was thinking of getting some leather boots for next year. I can not comment on these because I have Solomons, but Scarpas are good! DPP Ah shit, for some reason CC doesn't make my links hot! (Jon, care to comment!) anyway, go to www.sierratradingpost.com and go to footwear and then to hiking boots and scroll until you get to the Scarpa Matterhorns! They claim they are good for frontpointing.
  25. Banff Ice-What are conditions like? Recomondations?

    I was there 9 days and left on March 9. It was sunny, warm and blue skys every single day! Louise and Professors were both fat and are in the shade enough of the day to most likely still be good. Cascade is definitely out. We were going to do it by full moon but a huge piece fell off and it was spurting water big time. Don't go near it. Haffner Creek may still have some toproping but I didn't go there. The Weeping wall is probably going/gone really fast and I'm going to bet not very good. Polar Circus may still be good but you better be going back down by no later than 2:30 pm. Murchisons was also fat, but I didn't go there either. I concur that most climbers are thinking rock by now but if you go there you'll find something and can probably get beta at the alpine club in Canmore. I doubt you'll find anyone at Rampart these days. Look for chicks wearing T-shirts that say "This Winter Sucks-2000/2001" They are baaad! Wild Bills in Banff has the best dance floor! If you really need ice you can always try curling or hockey; there's plenty of that in Canada! DPP