Andy_Bourne

Pete, I think Alex was right, with the current warm temps most of that ice in the lower part of the canyon will have melted. However, last I heard there may be a cold front coming down from Canada the end of this week and may prove to be enough to form some things by the weekend. The last time we drove through Leavenworth there were several places that appeared top-ropable, and a few which people were climbing, all visible from the road. If it gets cold, I'd take a chance and make the drive. [This message has been edited by Andy Bourne (edited 02-07-2001).]

Thanks alpineTom. Hey, Allyoucaneat, were you the solo guy on Baker, or were you one of the guys in the team of three with snowboard and two telemarkers? We tried to summit on Sunday and it was bad. You definately hit it on the nose going from the car on Saturday. (I was with the group camping at 6000' asking about beta for the route) If anyone goes up there, I'd personally rope up for it. The snowpack is thin enough to break, but it has been windy enough to cover up some crevasses. That dude who fell in got lucky as hell, they didn't rope up and he said his pack was what stopped him. Congrats on the summit ski.

I think that there is a distiction between top-roping a climb and "hogging" one and/or doing laps on it. There should also be a distiction made between politely taking the 'right of way' and being an outright asshole. Some of the opinions stated in this thread show exactly what kind of a climber some of you can be. That said, I do think leading takes precedence over top-roping in SOME situations. If you are TRing a climb and someone comes up wanting to lead it all the way through, do your business and then get out of their way. If you are that party coming up to lead it, politely state your intentions and let them finish their business. The Golden Rule always applies.

Thanks for the suggestions. I have gotten alot of replys about the twins. We actually have gone up there already, on the 1st of the year, and they were really nice. North face and West ridge were climbable. And, yes, Mr. Goodtime the approach is still unappealling. If anyone been into any of the peaks in the Darrington area, I'd love to hear about it. Especially the Whitehorse Glacier, Three Fingers, Big Four, etc. Maybe I'll just have to find out myself. And Derek, punter or not, acclimatized or not, we'll see who is huffing and puffing. (Biotch)

Why don't we just build one of those airport people movers on the trail to Glacier peak to dispense of all that blasted walking. Then make a zip-line from the summit to the car, that way maybe more people will climb it, and we can start the NW Glacier Peak Climbing Club. Our naked meetings will be held at Kennedy Hot springs with tea and crumpets for all who join.

Just wondering if anyone has been out to climb any interesting winter routes? Not necessarily water ice, but anything in the mountains. I have been looking for some ideas for 1, 2 and 3 day routes on alpine terrain. Specifically, if anyone knows anything about winter routes near Darrington, like Whitehorse or Three Fingers, or some of the winter climbing that might be available off Cascade River Road south of HWY 20. I'd love to get some advice. Thanks.

Right on. Way to hit the nail on the head, Cascadeclimber, especially about who was here first! In my comment earlier in the thread, I was trying to politely suggest that SHW go somewhere else for instruction. But there isn't alot of chances like this to really let a forum of climbers, however big or small, know how the climbing community feels about the ethical tragedy of this organization. I have to assert that no matter how you cut it, they do way more harm than good. How many of us, if we could, would choose between having a NW climbing scene that included these organizations, or one that did not? Lets be honest with ourselves. If even one member of the Mountaineers or WAC is reading this, please take note of what you read. The very least that could be done is regulating group size, forget everything else. If a group of Mountaineers were small and inconspicuous, how would anyone be able to recognize them? What would that do for the public image? Think about it.

Right on. Way to hit the nail on the head, Cascadeclimber, especially about who was here first! In my comment earlier in the thread, I was trying to politely suggest that SHW go somewhere else for instruction. But there isn't alot of chances like this to really let a forum of climbers, however big or small, know how the climbing community feels about the ethical tragedy of this organization. I have to assert that no matter how you cut it, they do way more harm than good. How many of us, if we could, would choose between having a NW climbing scene that included these organizations, or one that did not? Lets be honest with ourselves. If even one member of the Mountaineers or WAC is reading this, please take note of what you read. The very least that could be done is regulating group size, forget everything else. If a group of Mountaineers were small and inconspicuous, how would anyone be able to recognize them? What would that do for the public image? Think about it.

I think it is also worth mentioning that there are more organizations out there offering climbing instruction, other than the socially oriented ones like WAC, Mountaineers, etc. As mentioned above, you can take classes from climbing gyms as well. These instructors may or may not be knowledgeable, which is something that you would have to ascertain on your own. The other route to take would be with a professional guide service. By far the most expensive way, but if you really want the highest quality instruction by trained professionals in a group with other motivated adults, this is the best way. In this area are some of the most widely known guide services and climbing schools in the country. Seattle has Mountain Madness, Alpine Ascents Int'l, and Cascade Alpine Guides. In Bellingham, we have the American Alpine Institute, one of the longest standing in the country. My advice, if you have the funds and want to take a course, would be to go to the professionals. The VERY best way is to find a few competent climbing parters, read instructional books, and learn yourself. If you want a social organization, which is a totally valid pursuit by the way, go that direction. It just depends on what your goals are for learning this noble sport. And welcome to this wonderful place, please treat it with respect.

New years day we climbed the N. twin in fairly good conditions, though quite hungover and naseated. The original plan was via the W ridge, but we opted for the north facing snow slopes instead. The snow had a styrophomey crust on top of less consolidated powder. Without snowshoes, we were punching through alot. I don't know enough about avi conditions to make a prediction, but it seemed somewhat safe. There was evidence of a couple avalanches on the way up originating from the sides, but the main route (N face) had no evidence of recent slides. It ended up being a very nice winter day-trip in seemingly good conditions, despite the logging road/bushwacking approach (bring a mountain bike if you have one). Though, since we have been having pretty considerable precipitation here in Bellingham for the past couple of days, the conditions may have changed significantly.

There are tons of climbs right next to the road. A guide book will help you find the areas to look, but you don't really need one. The 2nd edition of the Potterfield/Nelson is enough to get you around. Scouting from the road is easy as hell, and it is what you will be doing whether or not you are toting a guidebook. The stuff on the west side of the lake looks killer from far away, and one would need a boat to approach those climbs from the bottom. But in no means will you need a boat belay to be able to fill a weekend with some ice bashing. Matt S.- - Get the latest info from Mr. Leahy, he is returning today from Banks. I'm going to Tennessee for Xmas, see ya when I get back. We should make it back up to Lil' Wet sometime! Couple of us are going end of Jan.

We drove HWY 2 to Banks Lake over the weekend (12/16-17) and there is lots of climbable ice there. Some grade 5s top out and are completely formed. We did lots of 3s and 4s that were the first pitch of harder routes. The drive is pretty long, so make sure it is gonna be cold. Luckily, we made it while it was, and had a great weekend there with lots of options. If you are not up for the drive, there is some stuff along Hwy 2 if you look hard enough. From the road it looked as though Drury was in, plus 3 or 4 other pillars and gullies along the road. Hubba Hubba is NOT in, or anything else to speak of in Icicle Canyon. I'll have an up to date report on Banks from a friend who will be returning on 12/21.

Actually, there is "SOME" ice in Icicle Creek. I saw a couple guys toproping a pillar off the road. But HWY 2 actually has enough stuff to possibly constitute a weekend. I think we counted 3 or 4 climbable looking pillars/gullies as we were driving to Banks Lake, including Drury which definately appeared in. We stopped and did the approach to Hubba Hubba, only to find what dbb said, zero ice. Banks lake, though 5 hours from Bellingham, had plenty of ice. Enough stuff is climbable there to pay a visit for sure. Go while it is still cold and eat a burger at Wally's.

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We also did some climbing near Lillooet on 12/8, the Rambles, WI 3, was in for about a pitch and a half. Follow the orange tape through the woods from the car. Some other guys we know climbed Icy BC 12/10, and a "4+ pillar around the corner and to the left of Deeping Wall" They said the 4+ pillar had the best ice. Icy BC was fairly thin, but climbable for the first two pitches, and the ice was generally brittle. The Lake was crossable at Marble Canyon.