layton
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Posts posted by layton
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For stuck ropes with both ends down, the Jul is friggin sweet.
And Blake, I soloed Spaceshot with the Jul...ask Edelrid if that is kosher?
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My problem with the Jul isn't me not liking it, but my climbing partner's inability or unwillingness to use it...so I use a GriGri. I stopped using my Kong GiGi just because the new Reverso has been damn smooth with a metolius belay biner and it's more functional than a gigi. All good systems, just depends on preference and squabbling over an ounce of weight or less here and there. As for rappelling, I really don't like it. An autoblock not with a Sterling Hollow Block is foolproof, smooth, and having a prusik on you is always a bonus.
If my partners liked the Jul, I'd use it
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One grigri and reverso each is my best system
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Thanks! Got a photo already - sweet setups. I really don't like a sleeping setup, too much hassle.
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I'm the type of person that if I have something coming up, like a trip, or am not done working on something (like my new book), I cannot enjoy my free time - instead I anxiously fiddle with shit. I have to have a blank calendar to be able to enjoy other hobbies like running, biking, or reading.
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Water bladder goes in first if using one. sleeping bag with compression sack goes in bottom. Stuff in extra space with other clothes you won't be using. If wet weather, line with garbage bag. If using closed cell foam pad, put it on the side compression straps. Divide up group gear bases on both size and weight. Cram the rest of that shit in there. It should all fit except the rope and helmet. The rope gets strapped tight under lid (use slings if no strap) and helmet is secured to back of pack so it won't flop around. Put day's lunch and sundries in lid. If that doesn't fit and you're going for less than a week with a 45L pack, you are bringing too much shit. Get a lighter tent and sleeping bag first, then reduce your food and clothing (except breakfast/dinner - eat all of that). This last tip increases your chance of bailing, but also success.
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one of the best trips I've had!
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Sick gnar broseph!!
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Does anyone have a slick set-up in the back of their pickup truck canopy? I gave mine away (i hear it's making the rounds...slut), and want to put an example photo in my new book. Would anyone care to donate a photo of their setup? Free copy when it's published.
Thanks!
-Mike
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Jon,
I think you guys were working on this but it never panned out.
Organize trip reports like mountain project organizes their routes. To do this you could integrate tags of state, area, route? #washington #enchantments #acid baby. This would populate a list on the side you could navigate through. Moderators could edit the tags to keep things together and organized.
Right now TRs are just blindly guessing a route is in the system (or that you even know the route exists)
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I bet. Holy crap nice job
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Dragging and dropping photos would be so useful, if at all possible.
I'll do a TR when I'm done with my next book.
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A lot of us oldtimers have moved. I don't post TRs anymore because nothing I've done is cascades relevant. I would post more TRs if adding photos was simpler - it really takes quite an effort to post a TR. Many of us check in more than you think so keep posting. What is lame is posting links to your blog instead of a good TR
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if someone can repost the image smaller, i'll delete the original hogging the screen. can't seem to figure out how to post images right
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Ok, it's really a geometry question. I've heard of this theory (and actually put it in my first book). But it doesn't make sense. How do you get 30 degrees and 3 degree each additional cm?
Bruce Tremper illustrates it in "staying alive in avalanche terrain".
picture reposted below
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oh say, that's a good thought. lots of trees in yosemite you could haul up too
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you could get more than 45 degrees with a jet pack
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thanks for the math...
always wondered why no one ever tried to figure this out... i would think it would be well known
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I've also assumed the leader doesn't just burn a fatty and float past the pendi on his way to awesome land.
Awesome.
If I don't like a pitch, I lower out the length of that pitch, and pendulum so hard that I make a half circle and wind up at the next anchor.
PSA..on locking biners...which I generally hate in
in The Gear Critic
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The Edelrid Slider locking biner is also a great locker, so low profile it can fully rotate through a GriGri or through a bolt hanger. It does get crusty after a lot of time in the desert, and I bet it blows on ice routes though.