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Everything posted by layton

  1. [TR] Enchantments - Acid Baby 7/11/2015

    anyone done the "final" pitch on top again? bonus 5.10
  2. way to pick out that line! looks great! I scoped that a few time but the lower section must have obsured the good stuff above. So glad it went and was good!!
  3. fuk yeah!

  4. fuk yeah!

    maybe with both it's be just really comfortably nice out for all to enjoy
  5. Regular NW Half Dome no longer there

  6. Climb: Porcupine Peak-swamp creek trail Date of Climb: 9/12/2004 Trip Report: Note to climbers: the north face of porcupine peak is huge, granite, slabby, and mostly worthless. There are a couple really steep (vertical) 700 cliffs WAY up above some exciting slabs and gullies. Then there is the "see-tru" couloir, which is a vertical gully that is see-thru about 1/2 way up. Good views of Tower, Hardy, and Golden Horn, and of course Goode across the way. BUT....there is HUGE ice potential in winter. There is a great trail up swamp creek not marked on any map that I could find. Besides being a trail, it has liberal amounts of blue flagging tape. Actually, a ridiculous amount. The trial starts on the far west end of the Swamp Creek Pullout. It's about 1500' and 2 miles to the cirque and is pretty neat. Gear Notes: remote vision
  7. Raynauds Syndrome

    it's generally unrelated to it being cold out. white cold fingers on a warm summer day
  8. Tips for Improving Speed?

    don't dick around - you'll save more time than any training
  9. Where is Tumwater Tower?

  10. Richard Pargeter's Mountain Maps Return!

    I love those maps! So helpful
  11. Raynauds Syndrome

    Haven't seen that guy in forever!
  12. Raynauds Syndrome

    That's not Raynauds, that's frostbite.
  13. Raynauds Syndrome

    your fingers turned black?
  14. Hip Surgery

    Bob don't be hatin' on Gene.
  15. Who Requested This?

    15 more months! Glad your wife escaped
  16. Who Requested This?

    Move to Long Island if you want your spirit completely crushed
  17. Posts by fourteenfour - something stinks

    nice job guys, looks fun!
  18. is fourteen four the new borg queen?

    the weirdest part is that the climbs he chose weren't the highest or lowest views, posts, etc in any category, or even special - so he would have had to have some sort of selection criteria. but what? how?
  19. Mount Albert

    well shit
  20. Climb: FRA-Acid Baby III+ 5.10 approx 1000' climbing-Dan Cappellini, Rolf Larson, Mike Layton Date of Climb: 7/31/2005 Trip Report: "Now that we've climbed together, I think you're ready to meet Dan," Rolf stated at 6am in Leavenworth. The three of us had a blast doing a fantastic climb up on Asguard Pass across from the NE face of D-tail. All three of us knew of the line, although they tried to get me to do d-tail madness or the boving route instead. i made lies why we needed to do this route. We get to the base. Crap, this is gonna be quick. What looked like a 4-5 pitch climb now looked like 3 pitches max. At least it'll be over quickly...We got back to the car at 10:30pm. I posted a topo (too big for here) in my gallery. I'll add the link on my next post when i put up the photos. Anyway, our climb ACID BABY turned out to be unrelently steep, quality, and a clean line. I pegged out the contrive-o-meter when my pitch came up by trying to go directly up the roof in the center of the face. After an hour-long battle with gear and fear I backed off. I had a 1/2way in nut, a grey tcu that kept pulling out when i moved, an RP between two removeable stones, and a belayer-slayer i was standing on trying to make the impossibe (for me) reach up over and aroudn the roof. I fell and nearly shat myself in the process. The nut pulled, but came to a stop when the remain metal that was touching the rock somehow held. My RP and TCU blew out. I got real bloody! After a lot of "gosh mike, you're retarded" Rolf slung his balls over his shoulder and gave the roof a go. Much swearing and "careful" grumbling later, Rolf downclimbed my horror show, not as excited to be lowered off my nut as I was. "Well if Rolf couldn't do it," I though.... Anyway, I got the seat of SHAME while Rolf took the obvious and way better way to go up super exposed cracks, ridges, and traversing. Dan and I got stellar pitches, and more stellar pitches led to the top. Turned out to be about 1,000' of climbing all pitches very physical and almost every pitch in the 5.10 range, two being very sustained 5.10. Maybe my photos will do it more justice then my not so good TR (i'm tired and don't have time to post this later). We topped out on top of Enchantment peak after fully burying the CONTRIVE-O-METER on top by doing a sweet pitch of climbing on a large steep slab covered in cracks. We just couldn't stop climbing....well actually we all we bitching pussies by the summitt. If I think of anything else important to the actual route, i'll post it. Rolf and Dan are free to call bullshit, i don't care. feel free to downgrade it to I+ 5.6 55meters. anyone know the name of this tower? if it has one that is. Gear Notes: set and a half cams up to 4", nuts Approach Notes: can't see the tower till you're almost there
  21. Climb: Illumination Rock-Rime Dog 3rd ascent III 5.9 mixed 200m 4/24/04 Date of Climb: 4/24/2005 Trip Report: Edit: I've edited this thing twice now. 1st we thought we did Iron Maiden, then according to sources we did an FA, but Wayne corrected us since he's done all the routes on I-rock, and I guess we did the 3rd ascent of Rime Dog Finally, after a record number of failures due to weather, conditions, gear, time, etc...Marcus Donaldson and I were finally able to unleash the fury -which was well pent up from our almost weekly forrays into failure. Despite a 60% chance of snowstorms and even t-storms, Marcus and I drove up to Timerbline Lodge below Mt Hood arrive at a little after 5am. We could see a nice storm cloud growing above the summit of Hood and the wind was whippin'. The worst part of the slog up to Illumination Rock is havign done it before and remembering how long and boring that approach is. The mountain definately seems closer than it is, so it took us about 3 hours from starting to skin up the slope to being on belay. I am a terrible skiier so I left my skiis at the top of the upper Palmer lifts. This was a mistake and a blessing (more later). The route we were attempting starts left of the South Chamber up a series of gullies and headwalls. It looks like a ridge climb when viewed from the side, so it's pretty interesting to find gullies on a rather improbable looking line. The ice climb, "March Madness" was almost ready to climb (on the east face -a 1.5 pitch wi4) but was pretty thin and the ice looked very very very shitty. It wasn't even an option as we only brought one 17 cm screw anyways. I dug out a little platform and belayed Marcus up the 1st pitch. I wish I could say how hard it was or if it was good or not, but 2nding it, i got my ass fully handed to me. Unbelievable amounts of spindrift from above and from the howling wind completely blinded me. I mean i could not see anything. Snow and ice collected behind my belay parka (which i never took off througout the whole day) and gave me ice-cream headaches while i tried to claw my way up the pitch. None of the "ice" or rime would hold a stick. The rime would just collapse or chunk off, holding neither pick nor screw. In fact, during the whole climb neither of us got a single solid pick placement on the already marginal amount of ice and rime on the route. What we did have was tons of powder snow over rock and slab. Needless to say i was not too excited by the time i reached the end of the ropestrecher pitch. I was freezing and already covered in snow from head to toe. He wanted to quit when he reached the belay and knew i would feel the same by the time i reached it. But we had committed to doing a route together this winter and this was our final opportunity to do one. I took the rack and led out, just going through the motions of climbing, hoping that would psych me up again. His statement of, "hey, put a piece in quickly, i don't think this anchor will hold" didn't help much. I climbed up a pitch and put in a belay where i thought the route should go. I didn't really know b/c i couldn't see jack shit. I got about one second of vision between numerous bouts of furious blinking. Marcus's turn again. I put the belay directly under a rock headwall. Immediately above loomed a groove or offwidth looking section that went up about 50 feet into what looked like more headwall and rime gargoyles. Marcus did an amazing lead, and i could hear him talking to himself (saying very bad things) as he loudly grunted his way up. I climbed up and was very impressed. It was about hard 5.9 climbing with tools and crampons. I had to chimney, drop knee, layback, and handjam with extremely shitty feet (i.e. no feet). Then a run out tip-toe traverse on slab with quite the drop to another don't fall on me belay on the arete of a snow fluting. This 50meter pitch was nothing like Wayne or Lane's description of this climb as there was no "nice water ice" climbing and "easy 5.7". Either we were off route or the character was drastically different with no ice and full blizzard spindrift conditions. My next lead was a tight chimeny with shitty unusable rime gargoyles on my right and a closed seam of crappy rock on my left...all covered in powerder snow. I lived up that pitch and made it to the summit ridge after some very exciting bouts of gear placement. The rock ran out of crack features and the snow wasn't solid enough for a picket. I dug and dug for gear and tried about twenty differnt picked placements. Finally one picket lodged between some rocks under the powerder and held a pull. I piled more snow on it and jumped up and down to help pack it in. I put my pack on top of it, sat on the picket, and belayed Marcus up. On top we really had no idea how to get off. One way was a very long ridge of nothing but none too solid gargoyles which would take hours to traverse, the north face was an option but we couldn't see more than a few feet down it and had no idea what would happen if we started down it. Also we had nothing to rap off off. We concidered down the ridge the other way to the west as it was shorter, but after much digging and rooting around, we could find zilch to rap off of. What to do? The picket! Marcus rapped off my shitty belay picket (which has my mailing address on the back of it if you find it). I clipped into the picked and downclimbed the otherside of the mountain (N.face) so if it popped, he would have to pull me up and over the mountain. Luckily the picked held and i got to rap off it w/no back up. fun fun fun. Back at the base the wind calmed down but it was total white-out soup. I felt like falling over on flat terrain with no visual horizon. 360 deg of white. We wandered around what looked like heavens waiting room till we got to the upper palmer lifts. No skiis! Someone had taken my skiis back down to the palmer hut! D'oh!!! Why would someone do that? Turns out that someone did me a huge huge favor b/c just skiing out from the lower palmer hut back to the car, i crashed (spectacularily) many many many many -did i say many- times. I am a really shitty skiier. Maybe i'll make a "skiing sucks" t-shirt on my website. So the route is super fun, is a bit over 200m and goes in 4p at around 5.9(M?) mixed climbing. There is a route that goes out left on p2 called April Insanity and got a grade of IV 5.9+ AI4-M4+ whatever that means. I think the IV is a bit overzealous. The SW ridge gets a IV+ 5.9 AI4, and once again the IV+ seems rather much. There is a dihedral to the left of March Madness (the obvious ice climb) that goes at 10c. Inside the S.chamber there looks to be some fun 1 pitch stuff of all sorts of different grades. Go get em. I promised Zac not to share his very nice topo due to copyright issues...so if you want better info, email me. I guess you don't need any particular conditions except it not being real warm out. Ice would be a nice thing though. More photos to come. Some look better bigger, but the thumbnail for some reason isn't available in the gallery On the approach I-rock. "Rime Dog" is left of the s.chamber Marcus getting NAILED(he's in the center of the flash) by spindrift on p2. Marcus getting burly on p3. He's almost 7" tall so this section is a bit hard for shorter folks. Stemming, dropknees, jamming, and drytooling Rapping off White out...where's marcus? Where's the horizon line? Me n' Marcus well rested on the drive home Gear Notes: Skiis and skins One 9mm half rope Lots o' shoulder legnth slings Camalots-single set micro (don't use aliens they freeze) to .75". double set 1-3". we got away with only one but really could'a used two. Assortment pins: angles, LA's, and bugaboos...knifeblades not neccessary Lots o' nuts (marcus the gear miser brought the crappies selection known to man) This route takes rock pro in the .75-3" and nuts very well. Screws and pickets were totally worthless-find a better way down than rapping off a shitty picket Lots and lots of tat Goggles would be VERY nice Approach Notes: Boooooooooooring Start EARLY!!! Major shit coming down and the s.chamber is very very avy prone.
  22. Climb: Dragontail Peak-F.A.- Der DieHedral Date of Climb: 6/27/2004 Trip Report: 1st Ascent: Der DieHedral, 6p var to NE Arete on Dragontail Peak. 14 pitches. IV 5.10b ®. 6/27/04 Eric Wolf and Mike Layton. You gotta love the weather forecasting that's been going on these days. N.Cascades 60%, Der Leavenworthen 40%. Next day it's 0%. Then back up to 20%. Well MisterE and I figured it would be nice so we drove up to Der WorthLeaven and managed to get 3 full hours of sleep before our 3am wakeup call. We were going to try a new route up a major dihedral system on the NE face of Dragontail peak I had noticed on a photo someone posted on this site. 4 hours later we are finishing our final step-kick to the base of the NE face. Turns out that original dihedral (looks mid 5.10 and 5-6 pitches) is really really wide the whole way up. Definately doesn't look fun. Although it would be an interesting ascent. Bring you and you're friends #5 cams and big bros. Anyway, above us loomed another shorter diehedral, but WAY lower down Asguard Pass which was nice b/c it mean the route would be longer. Age before beauty, so Eric got the 1st lead, the luck bastard. It looked like crap but a hidden LONG 5.8 fingertip undercling flake (amazing) led to a 2 inch splitter (also amazing) back to the fingertip flake. As I follwed I was really hoping the whole route would be this good. This was a 120 meter lead. My pitches were in the dihedral itself and were both 70meter rope stretchers. The lower dihedral was tenous, but not too hard. The upper pitch I led, known as the "Belayer Slayer" required precise footwork and careful hold selection. It went at 10b ® and was the crux of the route. Eric got a couple leads after this and one went up a steep slabby face with splitter 1-2" cracks and went at 5.8 Now we were on the N.E. Arete which is the 1972 route in the beckey guide. We swapped leads up the ridge which was kinda easy, but required careful climbing and the exposure was wild. After about 1500' of ridgeclimbg we got to the N.E. tower summits which marked the end of the N.E. arete and the end of some awesome climbing. One rappel and some scrambling got us to the snow basin below dragonail and the Witches towers. There we ran into Kenford and Paco coming down from the Backbone ridge. Kenford was limping badly so we knew something was awry. Turns out he fell onto his heel and did something very bad to it. Maybe broke his calcaneus. Anyway, it was a really shitty place to have something like that happen. Luckilly he slid on his ass all the way down Asguard Pass IN SHORTS!!! Hardcore! MisterE had his 1st glissading experience and he was really psyched about that. What an amazing 1st glissade. 2000' of rocket power feet skiing. I hope Kenford didn't injure himself too badly on the hike out. I can only imagine how much pain he was in by the time they got to their car and how long the hike out must've taken. Hope you guys got some beer before the hospital! I am going to attach some photos MisterE took in a sec so hold your horses. You gotta wait for me to finish my roll before I post my photos. Gear Notes: Standard Rack up to 4 inches We used a 70m rope and used ever inch of it. Approach Notes: No crampons needed
  23. Mount Albert

    has anyone been dumb enough to do Robbie Reid since McLain's book stirred up the pot? That book should come with a coupon to a car mechanic. Will it ever get updated?