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Jason_Martin

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Posts posted by Jason_Martin


  1. The American Alpine Institute will run its annual gear sale on October 10th and 11th from 9am to 6pm. Save up to 75% on rental gear! Save 15% on all new store merchandise! Get a free AAI t-shirt with any purchase of $100 or more!

     

    2009_Gear_Sale_Flyer_Revised2_.jpg

     

    Photo by Steve Smith.

     

    The Equipment Shop at the American Alpine Institute may be found at 1513 12th street, Bellingham, Washington, 98225.

     

    For more information, please call 360-671-1570.

     

    Jason


  2. Neither of them had very good knowledge of mountain rescue techniques at the time that this happened. The whole thing could have been managed better...and if it were, Simon wouldn't have ended up in the situation that he ended up in...

     

    I've said this in the past and got jumped on because the route was so difficult. But the reality is that they pulled off an ascent that was way out of their league at the time and then got messed up on the descent. It's amazing that both of them survived...

     

    Jason


  3. FYI... For those who have friends who will be at this event and that you would like to have trained...or if you yourself are a beginner and would like some free training this weekend...

     

    The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam this weekend at Leavenworth. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on Sunday, September 27th. Primarily we are interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for free.

     

    The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs.

     

    The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals

     

    To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link:

     

    http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/spi/

     

    If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call me at:

     

    360-671-1505

     

    Thanks,

     

    Jason Martin


  4. The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam this weekend at Leavenworth. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on Sunday, September 27th. Primarily we are interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for free.

     

    The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs.

     

    The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals

     

    To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link:

     

    http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/spi/

     

    If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call me at:

     

    360-671-1505

     

    Thanks,

     

    Jason Martin


  5. I guess I wouldn't say don't try it. Instead, I would say to just be aware that some parties have had trouble with it.

     

    The topo definitely refers to multiple rappels as does the SW BC book. The most helpful thing for everyone here would be to stop calling names and for someone who nailed the descent to amend the topo for future climbers.

     

    Jason


  6. I don't want to interrupt this great spat, but I am hoping to get some info. Planning to do the NE Butt. next weekend and since I know (from doing it last year)the Slesse Creek descent is long,tedious and a logistical problem with the transport we are going to try the crossover descent this time. I really appreciate all the beta that people have posted, positive and negative. My question is: will we find water/snow on the approach, climb, descent and if so, where? If anyone who has been up that way in the last few weeks has some insight, please share.

     

    We did it about three weeks ago and there was water on the approach and slightly above the forest on the descent. There was no water on route.

     

    The gullies I rapped were in the crux routefinding section part II. Crux routefinding part I was straight forward and simple. Part II was a lot more complex. The beta isn't quite right in either the Southwest book or in the topo. You might find our rap stations, but be prepared to surrender a bit of gear.

     

    We did go down through the woods low on the descent, but never found the flagging. This wasn't really a big deal though. The big deal on the descent was crux routefinding number II on the topo I posted. However, it does sound like people have somehow completely avoided that section.

     

    Jason


  7. Marc,

     

    You must be really really really good. Thanks for putting me in my place. I must be really really bad. It was really nice of you to point out my deficiencies. I'll be sure to keep them in mind.

     

    I don't get the flaming on the internet. Is this what you want to hear from someone you don't know? This is a legitimate thread that should be kept clear of this kind of junk.

     

    I actually feel pretty comfortable with new routing. I've got about thirty

    FAs...mostly in spots where the descent was the crux. I guess I could keep spraying about myself, but then this would turn into another useless dick measuring thread...

     

    The Crossover Descent isn't new routing. Indeed, based on all the feedback I saw on the net prior to our experience this is a well-traveled descent. But as I stated, it's likely that people are going all over that ridge and as a result a trail has not begun to form. Had I been aware of this, I wouldn't have been looking for a trail or for carins.

     

    I guess the take-home point of this entire thread for the person who is thinking of this descent, is that it could be cruxy...but if you nail it spot on, could be okay...

     

    Jason


  8. Crossover Pass sucks. We had to leave four cams on the descent down the last set of gullies. It was not pleasant and took almost as long as the route to deal with.

     

    Jason

     

    Crossover Pass is only as Suck as whoever does the routefinding

     

    Now. Now. Let's all play nice...

     

    We followed this topo and felt that it was pretty honest in it's overall description. However, there was one section where the topo was a little bit off in what he calls the "Second Crux Routefinding" area and we never found the "trail" with flagging in the woods down low, even after traversing the hillside repeatedly.

     

    I think I could do it a lot faster now that I wouldn't be looking for signs of humans passing before me. There are very few carins to follow, only a few rap anchors to speak of, and no worn trail anywhere on the descent.

     

    We also upset a beehive on our way down, which really wasn't very much fun...

     

    That said, if I were to do it again, I would go down Slesse Creek.

     

    Jason


  9. The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam this weekend at Mount Erie. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on Sunday, August 30th. Primarily we are interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for free.

     

    The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs.

     

    The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals

     

    To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link:

     

    http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/spi/

     

    If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call me at:

     

    360-671-1505

     

    Thanks,

     

    Jason Martin


  10. Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding in the Northwest: A Slideshow hosted by AAI Guides

     

    January 21, 2009 at 7:00pm

     

    Join the American Alpine Institute for a free slideshow on Backcountry Skiing and Snowboard in the Pacific Northwest! This free show will feature photos and a discussion lead by AAI mountain and ski guides. Presentations include skiing the Spearhead Traverse, the Coleman Pinnacle, and splitboarding on Washington Pass.

     

    American Alpine Institute – Equipment Shop

    1513 12th St, Bellingham

     

    Event Cost: Free

    Snacks and Drinks will be provided

     

    Phone: 360-671-1505

    www.aai.cc/winter_clinic.asp


  11. After logging hundreds and hundreds of days at RR, I still can't get it out of my blood. It is the best climbing area in the country. It does take a little time to get used to the rock, but once you are...there's no place better...

     

    Jason


  12. American Alpine Institute

     

    Job Announcement: Alaska Range Programs and Expedition Coordinator

     

    Duties:

     

    *Coordinate the Alaska programs and oversee client bookings for AAI’s eight Denali expeditions and a variety of Alaska Range Mountaineering trips.

     

    *Work as a guide in at least one Denali program per season.

     

    *Assist in the management of programs in the Cascades, the Sierra and in Colorado.

     

    *Advise AAI’s executive director on Alaska mountaineering programs, risk management, and human resource issues.

     

    *Participate as one member of an executive team in the hiring and training of staff, in strategic and operational planning, and in the design and completion of special projects.

     

    *Optional – If an applicant has a strong motivation to continue working as a guide after the Alaska season, this position can be combined with guide work during the summer season.

     

    Requirements:

     

    *Alaska Range Guiding experience or Alaska Range Climbing Experience

     

    *Abilities to write and speak articulately, creatively, and effectively

     

    *An ability to work with a high level of energy, commitment, and responsibility.

     

    Location:

     

    *Bellingham, Washington, a beautiful and environmentally conscious town ranked #1 in the US by Outside magazine for quality of life in a community with exceptional opportunities for national caliber outdoor sports (cragging, alpine rock, glacier climbing, sea kayaking, mountain biking, trail running).

     

    Compensation:

     

    *$32,000 to $36,000 (DOE). Vacation pay, holiday pay, and health insurance benefits increase with time. Guiding wage is determined separately and is based on experience.

     

    For a prospectus and application, please visit:

     

    http://aai.cc/Employment/

     

    Submit application, résumé, and cover letter to info@aai.cc

     

    Please feel free to contact Jason Martin at 360-671-1505 or at jason@aai.cc with any questions.

     

    www.aai.cc

    http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/

     


  13. Join us on Wednesday night at 7:00 pm at the American Alpine Institute to learn more about snow and avalanche safety in the winter backcountry. The free seminar provides an introduction to the hidden danger of avalanches for skiers, snowshoers, and snowboarders.

     

    If you have any questions, please feel free to call us at 360-671-1505. Or log onto our website.

     

    We are located at:

     

    1515 12th Street

    Bellingham, WA 98225

     

    On another avalanche note, we are going to start to present avalanche observations and news on our blog every Wednesday afternoon. To see the blog, log onto:

     

    http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/

     

    Jason

     

     

     

     


  14. Join us for a lecture and discussion series at the American Alpine Institute headquarters in Bellingham.

     

    November 19th -- An Introduction to Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding

     

    This clinic is about how to get into backcountry skiing or snowboarding. We'll discuss gear and equipment, skiing techniques, and where to go in the Mt. Baker area. Space is limited, so first come, first serve!

     

    December 10th -- Avalanche Awareness Seminar

     

    An introduction to avalanche awareness in the backcountry.

     

    January 21st -- Backcountry Skiing in the Pacific Northwest

     

    A slideshow hosted by AAI guides.

     

    To find out more log onto:

     

    http://www.aai.cc/winter_clinic.asp

     

    The American Alpine Institute is located at:

     

    1513 12th Street

    Bellingham, WA 98225

     

    All programs start at 7:00.

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