Jason_Martin
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Posts posted by Jason_Martin
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There is no way the crew on the 96 ascent could have known anything about previous ascents. And I do believe that the article written in the AAJ was a good article.
I don't mean to attack anyone claiming first ascents when the previous ascentionists did not report their routes.
Believe me, this is a phenomenon that has existed throughout the climbing community forever. Routes are commonly not reported or are but the beta doesn't get out early enough.
Alan Kearney and Greg Cronn's route was a First Ascent. However it was not the first ascent of the North Face. Their route does not follow the first ascent line.
There were at least three other lines put up prior to the 96 line.
All the information presented here is based on rather tedious research and is not hearsay.
I'm sorry if you take offense. That is not what I was trying to do. I was simply trying to let people know the history of the mountain.
Jason
[ 11-07-2002, 12:20 PM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]
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Winter,
It's supposed to rain in Red Rocks this weekend.
Jason
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The "official" drytooling area can be found below the trestle directly across from the westbound exit 38 exit.
From I-90 eastbound, take exit 38 and drive 1.7 miles to FS road 9020. Turn onto 9020 and drive two tenths of a mile to where an overgrown jeep trail leaves the south side of the road. Hike the jeep trail through light trees to its end at a talus slope about five minutes from the car. There is a very rough trail along the left side of the talus slope to the base of the crag.
Numerous slabby somewhat low angle lines exist here.
Directly above the railroad grade a mixed ice route sometimes comes in called CYA.
Jason
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More likely than not, the Paull and Littauer ascent of Spindrift Couloir was the third ascent. Rich Calstad and Cal Folsom did a route in the same general vicinity in 1974. In 1984, Steve Swenson and Greg Child climbed the same general line as Paull and Littauer. Then in 1996, the two teenagers did their thing.
There is the strong possiblity that there was another ascent in between the Child/Swenson and the Paull/Littauer ascents, but it hasn't been confirmed.
Some of these guys who have been climbing here for a long time weren't real into reporting everything they did. As a result, the first report of the route was not until Climbing Magazine #162 and then the 1997 AAJ.
Jason
[ 11-07-2002, 11:02 AM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]
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Alex and I don't have any info on the "Toolshed" yet. Any beta would be appreciated.
Jason: j_dougie@yahoo.com
Alex: wastateice@yahoo.com
Jason
[ 11-01-2002, 06:36 PM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]
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I just recently came across this and thought it worth sharing. It's a pretty cool list with an even cooler idea behind it.
Jason
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I've never pitched out the third and fourth class. If you pitch that out it's certainly going to be a long day.
Six pitches was an estimate off the top of my head. Swain's book gives it ten pitches. I know we did it in less than that.
Jason
[ 10-17-2002, 04:46 PM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]
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It is important to note that that the Urioste Guide is a trad guide. You have to get the Swain book if you want to be able to find the sport climbs.
You can get the Urioste book at Desert Rock Sports on West Charleston about fifteen minutes east of the Red Rock loop road.
In theory Swain's next edition of his guide will be a "comprehensive" look at all routes in Red Rock.
Jason
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Ropegun,
I think Mike is joking. The Swain book is one of the worst.
Jason
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Jubilant Song is confusing at the top. There are harder ways to go and easier ways. Some of the ways are on very friable rock. And sometimes the easier ways don't look easier...
But with that in mind, everything on Jubilant Song is fun until the very top where the route is not super clear.
I think the move you're talking about on Frogland feels sketchy because it's so cruiser up to that point... Then suddenly out of the blue there's a hard move.
Jason
[ 10-17-2002, 10:25 AM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]
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Personally I like a-d, regardless of if it's trad or sport.
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Personally I like a-d, regardless of if it's trad or sport.
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I stand by Jubilent Song. It's quite a good route. I've done it three times and it has been enjoyable each time.
The guidebook calls Black Orpheous a 10-. But like Burdo, Swain is trying to solidify the grade system. It's arguable whether this is a good or bad thing. But the result is that grades can be confusing to some visitors. Following is a quote from his book:
"True Sport climbs have ratings subdivided by letter grades (a-d), as was introduced by Jim Birdwell of Yosemite fame. Routes that require some amount of traditional gear have the subdivisons of minus and plus. These 'gear subdivisions' are used on climbs 5.10 or harder, with a rating of 5.10- being equal in difficulty to 5.10a"
And certainly for twenty or so feet, Black Orpheous feels tenish.
The guidebook gives Rainbow Buttress eight pitches. Though the vast majority of the long routes in Red Rock can be done in far fewer pitches, especially if you have a sixty meter rope.
Even in February you'll have more than three hours of sun on Resolution Arete... Perhaps Dru is right it might not be a full half-day, but it's longer than three hours.
Regardless of all this, my original list was simply to help people identify sunny routes and plan trips to Red Rock in the winter. It is not meant to be a guidebook.
Jason
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Routes in the Sun to Consider:
Solar Slab, 5.6 - 14 P
Cat in the Hat, 5.6+ - 4-5 P
Geronimo, 5.7 - 5 P
Olive Oil, 5.7 - 6 P
Hop Route, 5.7 - 2 P
Tuna and Chips, 5.7 - 2 P
Johnny Vegas, 5.7 or 5.9 - 5 P
The Black Dager, 5.7+ - 6 P
Jubilant Song, 5.8 - 5 P
Rainbow Buttress, 5.8 - 6 P
Beulah's Book, 5.9 - 3 P
Black Orpheous, 5.10a - 6 P
Chicken Lips, 5.10a - 6 P
Leviatation 29, 5.11 - 8 P
Resolution Arete, 5.11+ - 17 P
The preceding list is a list of climbs that are in the sun for at least half or more of the day.
Have a blast!
Jason
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Perhaps someone can help us out with another question. I'm looking for information for the guide on the group of climbers from the eighties that called themselves "White Punks on Dope" after the punk rock tune by the Tubes.
I know Doug Klewin was part of this group, but I don't know who else. Any info would be helpful.
Jason
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j_b,
The index of climbs is quite long... Too long for me to type up here. If you have a question about a specific climb or area, I will answer it to the best of my ability.
Jason
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Be aware that with our deadline coming so quickly, you should explore early. Anything that is contributed after mid-December will have to wait until the second edition.
Jason
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Alan Kearney's Guidebook, "Northwest Select" has the approach in it.
Jason
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We've had so many people submit to this book, it's just not possible to give every person a free copy.
On my "Special Thanks" list in the back of the book over seventy people are listed. And that's people who have provided us with solid beta... We are really just starting the picture, map, and topo phase of the project.
Mounties are reasonable, but not seventy plus copies reasonable.
Jason
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Lambone,
Publishing is a very slow business, so is collecting data for a guide that has never been published before. To give you an idea of what this has taken, here is a timeline.
1999 -- Winter 1999 Start Project. Many days are spent looking for ice. We originally thought this might be a very short book.
2000 -- Research is slow and some people are unwilling to provide information. Though it appears that the book will not by any means be short.
2001 -- October, sent out drafts of the book to publishers in hopes of a bite.
2001/2002 -- December and January, I'm in the field almost every day trying to verify information that people have provided -- one of the nice things about being a grad student was that I got a little time off here and there. Often I'm doing approaches to routes that are not in, simply to get the beta correct.
2002 -- March, Mountaineers Books shows some interest.
2002 -- September, finally a contract is signed. Unfortunately Mountaineers only comes out with books in the Fall. Our guide is over 150 pages long, single spaced without pictures...
2002 -- December 31st, our final deadline for all information and field checking.
2003 -- January through May, Mountaineers does their part of the work, but we are required to look at proofs and galleys throughout the publication process. We are not allowed to add any new beta, just correct small mistakes.
2003 -- June through August, Final copy-editing and publication.
I truly wanted to have the guide out for this winter, that's why we submitted the book to publishing agencies a year ago... But as I've stated above, this is a very slow process.
Jason
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Captain,
Sorry, our contract is very tight and we don't even have that to give away. Though a photo credit in a guidebook could lead to paying gigs with the magazines... At least you'd have a published climbing photo on your resume.
Jason
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"Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide" by Jason D. Martin and Alex Krawarik, will be available from Mountaineers Books in September of 2003.
Our final deadline for all information concerning ice climbing in Washington State is in late December... Which means that we have to have any information that will be included in the guide by late November or early December so that we have time to format it and check out the beta.
If you have some secret spot that you think should be included in the book, please contact us.
We are also in dire need of photos. We will accept any photos that you may have of climbing on Washington Ice though that doesn't mean that we will use them for sure. Unfortunately we can't pay for photos.
We are interested in both action shots of ice climbers and overview shots of areas or routes.
In particular we are currently looking for any ice climbing photos of the following areas:
1) Climbs on Table Mountain
2) Cascade Pass climbs
3) Index climbs
4) Stevens Pass routes
5) Routes in the Quincy Wildlife Area
6) The little climb in Spokane
7) Frenchman Coulee
8) Chinook Pass
9) Any climbs in Mt. Rainier National Park
10) Climbs in Bluewood
In addition to this request for any photos, we have specific overview photos that we are looking for. They include:
1) Dragontail Peak in the Winter
2) The Mt. Index group in the Winter
3) The NW Face of Colefax Peak in the Winter
4) The steep buttress to the right of the North Face of Chair Peak.
5) N. Face of Abiel Peak in the Winter
Please let us know what you have.
I can be reached at: j_dougie@yahoo.com
Alex can be reached at: wastateice@yahoo.com
Alex, please chime in if I missed anything in this request...
Jason
[ 10-14-2002, 09:38 AM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]
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Black Velvet is awesome right now... But it's going to start getting cold back there in the next few weeks. Early November it's still okay, but after mid-November, routes in the sun are the way to go.
Jason
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Cat in the Hat can be done in four pitches with a 60m rope. It's a nice climb.
Ginger Cracks and Chrimson Chryslis are fun routes but require a bit more approach time.
It's not hard to get Olive Oil and Geronimo in the same day. They are both fun 5.7 routes. Each can be done in four to five pitches with 60m ropes.
Johnny Vegas to Solar Slab is a nice full day of 14 pithces at about 5.7. Be sure to bring double ropes and rappel the route. DO NOT DO THE "SUGGESTED" WALKOFF and DO NOT RAPPEL Johnny Vegas. Rappel down Solar Slab Gully. If you do these things you'll have a great day.
Any route that can be approached relatively quickly that can be done relatively fast can be done in conjunction with The Great Red Book. Though the route spooks me because it and Olive Oil are the only two routes in Red Rock that have seen fatalities.
Beware of the park closing times. A ticket after the gates close will cost you fifty bucks.
I just got down here and it's still a bit warm. Give it another week or so and both routes in the sun and routes in the shade will be climbable. Give it a month and you won't want to do routes in the shade too much anymore.
If you have specific questions feel free to email or PM me.
Have a blast!
Jason
[ 10-12-2002, 05:36 PM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]
drytooling at exit 38
in Climber's Board
Posted
There are easily accessable anchors on top. Though if you're just learning to drytool, freesoloing probably is not a hot idea. Too many sharp objects.
Jason