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Jason_Martin

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Everything posted by Jason_Martin

  1. 10/6 & 10/7 Events with Dawn Glanc in PDX and SEA

    Dawn is awesome. Wish I could make it! Dawn Receives AMGA President's Award Dawn Appears on the Weather Channel Dawn wins the Ouray Ice Festival Dawn on the Cover of Alpinist Jason
  2. Touching the Void question...

    Neither of them had very good knowledge of mountain rescue techniques at the time that this happened. The whole thing could have been managed better...and if it were, Simon wouldn't have ended up in the situation that he ended up in... I've said this in the past and got jumped on because the route was so difficult. But the reality is that they pulled off an ascent that was way out of their league at the time and then got messed up on the descent. It's amazing that both of them survived... Jason
  3. The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam this weekend at Leavenworth. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on Sunday, September 27th. Primarily we are interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for free. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link: http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/spi/ If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call me at: 360-671-1505 Thanks, Jason Martin
  4. Ropeup 2009!

    FYI... For those who have friends who will be at this event and that you would like to have trained...or if you yourself are a beginner and would like some free training this weekend... The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam this weekend at Leavenworth. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on Sunday, September 27th. Primarily we are interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for free. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link: http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/spi/ If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call me at: 360-671-1505 Thanks, Jason Martin
  5. Slesse Question

    That's what I'm talking about. Thanks Buckaroo! Jason
  6. Slesse Question

    I guess I wouldn't say don't try it. Instead, I would say to just be aware that some parties have had trouble with it. The topo definitely refers to multiple rappels as does the SW BC book. The most helpful thing for everyone here would be to stop calling names and for someone who nailed the descent to amend the topo for future climbers. Jason
  7. Slesse Question

    We did it about three weeks ago and there was water on the approach and slightly above the forest on the descent. There was no water on route. The gullies I rapped were in the crux routefinding section part II. Crux routefinding part I was straight forward and simple. Part II was a lot more complex. The beta isn't quite right in either the Southwest book or in the topo. You might find our rap stations, but be prepared to surrender a bit of gear. We did go down through the woods low on the descent, but never found the flagging. This wasn't really a big deal though. The big deal on the descent was crux routefinding number II on the topo I posted. However, it does sound like people have somehow completely avoided that section. Jason
  8. Slesse Question

    Marc, Did you look at the topo I posted? It clearly says to go down those gullies. Obviously, it's not a great topo if there is a better way to go. Jason
  9. Slesse Question

    Marc, You must be really really really good. Thanks for putting me in my place. I must be really really bad. It was really nice of you to point out my deficiencies. I'll be sure to keep them in mind. I don't get the flaming on the internet. Is this what you want to hear from someone you don't know? This is a legitimate thread that should be kept clear of this kind of junk. I actually feel pretty comfortable with new routing. I've got about thirty FAs...mostly in spots where the descent was the crux. I guess I could keep spraying about myself, but then this would turn into another useless dick measuring thread... The Crossover Descent isn't new routing. Indeed, based on all the feedback I saw on the net prior to our experience this is a well-traveled descent. But as I stated, it's likely that people are going all over that ridge and as a result a trail has not begun to form. Had I been aware of this, I wouldn't have been looking for a trail or for carins. I guess the take-home point of this entire thread for the person who is thinking of this descent, is that it could be cruxy...but if you nail it spot on, could be okay... Jason
  10. Slesse Question

    Crossover Pass is only as Suck as whoever does the routefinding Now. Now. Let's all play nice... We followed this topo and felt that it was pretty honest in it's overall description. However, there was one section where the topo was a little bit off in what he calls the "Second Crux Routefinding" area and we never found the "trail" with flagging in the woods down low, even after traversing the hillside repeatedly. I think I could do it a lot faster now that I wouldn't be looking for signs of humans passing before me. There are very few carins to follow, only a few rap anchors to speak of, and no worn trail anywhere on the descent. We also upset a beehive on our way down, which really wasn't very much fun... That said, if I were to do it again, I would go down Slesse Creek. Jason
  11. Slesse Question

    Crossover Pass sucks. We had to leave four cams on the descent down the last set of gullies. It was not pleasant and took almost as long as the route to deal with. Jason
  12. The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam this weekend at Mount Erie. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on Sunday, August 30th. Primarily we are interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for free. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link: http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/spi/ If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call me at: 360-671-1505 Thanks, Jason Martin
  13. Free Training from Aspirant Climbing Guides

    We've got enough people. Thanks for calling. I'll put a new notice up next time we do this. Jason
  14. Green Lake Memorial July 11th...
  15. Sarah Palin just Stepped Down

    Sarah Palin Resigns
  16. ANC -> Talkeetna shuttle?

    Denali Overland is $75 per way... Jason
  17. Mt. Rainier Guiding

    The American Alpine Institute still has room on it's Kautz Glacier trip. http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/rainier/ Jason
  18. Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding in the Northwest: A Slideshow hosted by AAI Guides January 21, 2009 at 7:00pm Join the American Alpine Institute for a free slideshow on Backcountry Skiing and Snowboard in the Pacific Northwest! This free show will feature photos and a discussion lead by AAI mountain and ski guides. Presentations include skiing the Spearhead Traverse, the Coleman Pinnacle, and splitboarding on Washington Pass. American Alpine Institute – Equipment Shop 1513 12th St, Bellingham Event Cost: Free Snacks and Drinks will be provided Phone: 360-671-1505 www.aai.cc/winter_clinic.asp
  19. jtree xmas 2008

    After logging hundreds and hundreds of days at RR, I still can't get it out of my blood. It is the best climbing area in the country. It does take a little time to get used to the rock, but once you are...there's no place better... Jason
  20. American Alpine Institute Job Announcement: Alaska Range Programs and Expedition Coordinator Duties: *Coordinate the Alaska programs and oversee client bookings for AAI’s eight Denali expeditions and a variety of Alaska Range Mountaineering trips. *Work as a guide in at least one Denali program per season. *Assist in the management of programs in the Cascades, the Sierra and in Colorado. *Advise AAI’s executive director on Alaska mountaineering programs, risk management, and human resource issues. *Participate as one member of an executive team in the hiring and training of staff, in strategic and operational planning, and in the design and completion of special projects. *Optional – If an applicant has a strong motivation to continue working as a guide after the Alaska season, this position can be combined with guide work during the summer season. Requirements: *Alaska Range Guiding experience or Alaska Range Climbing Experience *Abilities to write and speak articulately, creatively, and effectively *An ability to work with a high level of energy, commitment, and responsibility. Location: *Bellingham, Washington, a beautiful and environmentally conscious town ranked #1 in the US by Outside magazine for quality of life in a community with exceptional opportunities for national caliber outdoor sports (cragging, alpine rock, glacier climbing, sea kayaking, mountain biking, trail running). Compensation: *$32,000 to $36,000 (DOE). Vacation pay, holiday pay, and health insurance benefits increase with time. Guiding wage is determined separately and is based on experience. For a prospectus and application, please visit: http://aai.cc/Employment/ Submit application, résumé, and cover letter to info@aai.cc Please feel free to contact Jason Martin at 360-671-1505 or at jason@aai.cc with any questions. www.aai.cc http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/
  21. Join us on Wednesday night at 7:00 pm at the American Alpine Institute to learn more about snow and avalanche safety in the winter backcountry. The free seminar provides an introduction to the hidden danger of avalanches for skiers, snowshoers, and snowboarders. If you have any questions, please feel free to call us at 360-671-1505. Or log onto our website. We are located at: 1515 12th Street Bellingham, WA 98225 On another avalanche note, we are going to start to present avalanche observations and news on our blog every Wednesday afternoon. To see the blog, log onto: http://alpineinstitute.blogspot.com/ Jason
  22. Alpine solo tent selection help?

    Choosing a Solo Tent
  23. Join us for a lecture and discussion series at the American Alpine Institute headquarters in Bellingham. November 19th -- An Introduction to Backcountry Skiing and Snowboarding This clinic is about how to get into backcountry skiing or snowboarding. We'll discuss gear and equipment, skiing techniques, and where to go in the Mt. Baker area. Space is limited, so first come, first serve! December 10th -- Avalanche Awareness Seminar An introduction to avalanche awareness in the backcountry. January 21st -- Backcountry Skiing in the Pacific Northwest A slideshow hosted by AAI guides. To find out more log onto: http://www.aai.cc/winter_clinic.asp The American Alpine Institute is located at: 1513 12th Street Bellingham, WA 98225 All programs start at 7:00.
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