rbw1966

Anarchists drive? Since when? I don't own enough black clothes to be an anarchist. Rob

I've found that clove hitching to anchor points on multi-pitch to be fast and easy. I'm not a knot-master though. Rob

Picture of the West Buttress Route on Denali, antique wooden-stock ice axe from an auction in Mexico, picture of me looking like a dork (not hard) with Cayambe in the background. I'm planning on adding an antique crampon and some old pitons and ice screws to my wall. Haven't quite figured out how to hang them. Rob

I heard rumors that a fun run is to start off at Timberline, climb to Illumination Rock and head down towards zigzag where you car shuttle/hitchhike back to timberline. Anyone ever done this route? Rob

Any freeheelers in the Portland area want to hook up? I suck but am working diligently to get better before I wreck my body AND equipment. Got car, will drive. Email me. Rob

I'd be pretty surprised if there is an untrammeled square inch on Mt. Hood. Climbing a peak with no previous knowledge though can be an invigorating experience, especially for someone with a good imagination. I sometimes think that given the dynamic nature of alpine routes, almost every ascent is, in a way, a first ascent. Rock routes vary little over time unless holds are broken, bolts drilled etc. Alpine routes vary tremendously depending on snow pack, weather conditions, snow cconditions, etc. I climbed Cooper Spur in November 2000, in a year with exceptionally low snowfall and before the winter snows had really formed the route to its "normal" state. None of the guidebooks I read afterwards mentioned anything about the mixed climbing we encountered. I'm not knowledgable enough about ice climbs but I've wondered if the same is true for them as well. What are your thoughts? Rob

And you know the status of his foreskin how? You guys are a fascinating study. Rob

Shoulda found some medic-hottie to suck out the venom. Rob

Time for some meds to help with the tourrettes heinous. I've encountered the mazamas on several outings, almost exclusively on Hood where they stick with the "strength in numbers" adage. Their (abysmal) safety record aside, their manners and mountain ettiquette alone leave me with a bad taste. I go out of my way to avoid those schmucks. I've never knowingly encountered the mountaineers on anything but if they were the group on Liberty Bell when I did it in July then they have a lot in common with the mazamas. Ick. Rob

wdietsch--I agree with you. I carried ascenders on Denali, but as you pointed out, for most applications in the Cascades the ascenders are a bit more than needed. You can tout the weight advatages of tiblocs all you want--they've been shown to be pretty damaging to the sheath of a rope if you are not extremely careful. And yeah, I have tried working prussiks with gloves on in the dead of winter. So far I've never had to pull a partner out of a crevasse except in practice conditions. I'm hoping I never have to. You (in the general sense, not you specifically) weigh your decisions and make the choices that work best for you. I try to carry stuff that has more than one application. Good points to consider for sure! Rob

Does anyone take ascenders/ropeman on glaciated climbs? Seems like a lot of weight to be hauling when prussiks work just fine. I wouldn't use a tibloc unless I was desperate. I'll stick with prusskis thank you very much. I don't even wanna know what you use for "snow seal" Larson. I've used 7mm-11mm for glacier travel. The smaller the diameter the better in my opinion.

I'll toss in my $.02 (which adjusted for inflation equals nothing). I bought the bibler bombshelter for denali. My wallet was empty for montths after that one. Like someone else said though, you'll never complain about good gear on the mountains. At under 9lbs its pimpin for 2 and can sleep up to 4 in a pinch. I love bibler tents. I rarely use this thing anymore because its just overkill for the cascades. One complaint: the floor is a bit flimsy. I poked a tent pole right through but Black Diamond repaired it and had it back to me in less than a week. Condensation is never a problem. Set-up is easy, even solo in heavy winds. Their expensive but worth it if you're seriously considering a single wall tent. Garudas are too small for me (I am 6'3"). Rob

I dont read this all that often myself but I'd join in the festivities next time around. Always looking for a reason to drink. Shoot me an email next time at soyanarchisto@netscape.net I'm out of town this weekend. How avbout next tuesday evening? Rob

I'll bet the rangers know.

Cooper: Avi danger on this route cannot be over-emphasized. Winter time is a great time to do this route but hit it real early and go down south side. I'm really surprised no one else has mentioned the South Side as a descent for Cooper Spur as its way safer. The car shuttle is a bit of a logistical problem but easily overcome. Avi danger increases as the snow softens in the afternoons and most people fall on the descent so make life easier and head to Timberline afterwards for a cold (or warm) one. We did it this way in Nov. 00 and had a blast of it although the car shuttle turned into an epic. Great beta on the Sandy Headwall variation RP. We did that on New Years Eve '99. Best climbing day I've ever had on Hood. Best advice for this route: follow the beta about keeping low to get over Yokum. We didn't. At first. Har har. Do the folks at Timberline still sell one-ride lift tickets? That slog up the south side ski area bites. Rob

Sorry I missed you guys--didn't have a chance to read the board before heading out. Anyone been up on the mountains? I tried doing some backcountry skiing last weekend in Heather Canyon with my partner but the powder was deep, unstable and avis going off all over the place. We pussed out. Rob

Hey if you guys meet up in Portland shoot me an email and I'll try and hook up. Address is soyanarchisto@netscape.net Rob

I bailed off the (top of) first pitch of Liberty Crack. I french-freed Monkey Space. I fell asleep at the slide show for that women who led the all-female ascent of annapurna. "A woman's place at the top"? I'm bored.

We did it as a team of 2 (Mr. Greenjeans, '99) with no problems whatsoever. No way would I go in a cattle grind of 4 or 5 (or more). West Butt's a walk up enough without adding to the drama. Good luck man, I hope you find your sense of humor up there. Rob in Portland

Maybe by "fit" he was not referring to a level of fitness so much as being um. . how do you say it? "Accomodating"? Rob "not a porn star, just play one on the mountain"

I was looking at the Eliot about a month or so ago and it didn't look very "in" then. Maybe I was hallucinating though. Its happened. I'm in Portland and got a weekend free. Thinking of either going to Smith or on Hood if the weather is good. Anyone game? Rob

anyone want to go to smith this weekened? email me

I have an almost new Cobra for sale. Comes with the adze and leash. Only carried it (for three weeks in Ecuador), never used it so's its in excellent shape. $200. I'm in Portland. Also for sale are two Cassin bent-shaft hammers, brand new with extra pics and leashes, $200 or best offer. These tools have never seen any action. Email me at SoyAnarchisto@netscape.net if you have any questions or offers. Rob

I have the BOMBSHELTER (made by Bibler) and although it is fast it is far from light. I think it weighs in at around 9 pounds with poles. But it truly is the bomb. That said, I have the Megamid and for alpine camping I love the thing. No need for the pole that came with it as you can use your ski pole. Purdy cool.

The access fund rep in Washington is Andy Fitz (or was last time I contacted him). If you can't get his email address from the Access Fund let me know and I might be able to dig it up. Email me directly as I don't visit this site all that often. Rob