rbw1966

I have an aquaintance who lives in Bellingham and got busted by the canucks on his way into Canada with Mr. Greenjeans riding shotgun. They cavity searched him and charged him $500 for the honor. Now his name is in a database that gets him the stink-eye every time he crosses the border (which is often). A group of us (in seperate cars) went to Manning to ski. I was behind his truck. Before we even left he begged everyone to leave Mr. Greenjeans at home, along with any accessories. My friend got pulled to the side for extensive questioning and searching whilst we passed on through unmolested. Its not that hard to locate Mr. Greenjeans or his relatives in either Mexico or Canada. Why bother with the risk of taking it with you? Speaking of Mexico, I was talking with a guy who was in baja for a month climbing. He had aquired the services of Mr. Greenjeans whilst there and plum forgot about the accessories conveniently located in a pocket of his pack. US Customs agents quickly discovered it (hint: clean up a bit--shave, etc--before making a border crossing) and hassled him for quite a while. He had no actual herbage on his person or baggage--just a little ol' pipe. Eventually they let him go with the admonition, "I should prosecute you just for being so stupid." 'Nough said.

On our way down from Camp Muir we passed a group of Army guys (national guard maybe?) who were hiking up in a rag-tag assemblage of street clothes and uniform parts. Some were wearing combat boots, others running shoes. ALmost all were wearing cotton socks--some had their socks on their hands.

quote: Originally posted by dharmabum: . . .In 1990, while making $4/hr, I saved up enough to buy a full set of Friends & biners. I walk in the next day, the same guy that sold me the stuff is acting like he doesn't know me when I have a couple questions, and then the owner acts like it's a big goddamned deal to get me a block of chalk. . . Hmmm. . lets see, 2002-1990=12 years. Awful long time to be harboring a grudge because a retailer didn't suck your dick after you spent $150. Like someone else said, they all have their good points and their bad points. Its a business, not a mutual admiration society. Thats what this board is for, no?

quote: Originally posted by crack addict: finally, the patagonia store on nw irving is cool if only because of their commitment to the environment, etc. The only climbing gear they carry are over-priced jackets and pants you could possibly fill with snow and use as bollards. Hell, they didn't even have bibs when I was in there Friday.

I'm with Will on his assessment of US Outdoor as an overpriced apparel store. HOWEVER, I got a ladies ratagonia shell jacket there once for a song. It pays to shop around. I rarely rely on the sales staff of a gear shop for beta on the equipment. I do my research before I ever go into the shops. Sometimes you can obtain route info from the staff, but again I rarely rely on it alone.

Hardly to let a thread pass without at least one voice of dissent: I think The Mountain Shop rules with respect to ski mountaineering info and equipment. Oregon Mountain Community is my second choice, with Climb Max usually being my first choice for rock gear. I almost never go to REI. I think U.S. Outdoor Store blows. No backcountry ski gear and maybe two/three people in the whole store who know anything about climbing--in my experience. Perhaps I just hit them on bad days? I still go there to compare prices.

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: Yeah, I was hoping someone that climbed the Sandy Headwall would post a report. I assume someone climbed it? I would be very interested in a TR and / or beta on the any routes on the Sandy side...anyone? What is it you want to know? The guidebook is pretty spot-on. When we did it (day before new years eve 1999) it was pretty straightforward with no great technical difficulties--we didn't even rope up. Whilst on the Yocum last week and looking down at it, it looked pretty sweet. Not too dissimilar from Leuthold but a bit steeper. I'll be going by there this weekend if the weather is descent. I can let you know what I see from the bottom looking up if no one else has posted beta before then.

I'm pretty sure the Wickwire photo was taken from the top of the third gendarme. It was a big inspiration for me as well.

quote: Originally posted by jules: Do we count Batso's passing as the 3rd incident, though? If so, then we're done, if, as erik states, these things happen in 3's. I'm not sure you can count "liver failure" as an accident. "Honest, I didn't mean to drink that gallon of Mogan David." Harding is my hero.

quote: Originally posted by imorris: I have never used the cat, but I think the requirement was an MLU, not a beacon. The snow cat costs $100, whether 1 person or 10 people ride. You can pre-arrange a pickup at the alpine lodge. It will eliminate that slog up the Palmer snowfield. They require that you have either an MLU OR a cell phone. I'd recommend the phone over the MLU. You can't order a pizza with an MLU.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: aintchu guys ever heard of bollards? Well Dru old boy, I'll let you come on down to Yocum and construct all the bollards you want. It pains me to leave my shiny gear behind. Perhaps I wasn't clear on the conditions: the snow was soft and shallow with a thin upper crust. My partner weighed in at a svelt 250 or so and I at a dainty 190. Bollards crossed my mind for about .001 second. My life is worth more than $20.

quote: Originally posted by Zenolith: you the shit man. As a matter of fact, I did have to change my underwear after we rapped off onto the Reid. If anyone wants some booty, there are two pickets on the fall line coming down the south flank of Yocum below the first gendarme. Bring some rock pro if you plan to retrieve them. You'll need it.

A friend of mine and I made an attempt on Yocum Ridge yesterday. Got about a third of the way up the first gendarme before a very unexpected storm rolled in and we rappelled to the Reid Glacier. We got caught in a whiteout on the descent from Illumination Saddle. Route conditions were excellent until the gendarme, then we faced soft, shallow snow with a thin crust and bare, choosy rock. Protection was almost non-existent. Be prepared for high exposure, lots of ice and snow falling, scant pro and a long day. Leuthold Couloir, Sandy Headwall and surrounding routes were all in excellent condition. light rockfall.

quote: Originally posted by gregm: the nuge posts on a telemarktips.com. i think this is interesting in relation to the "where are the greats" thread. http://www.telemarktalk.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?topic=322&forum=1 So does Michael Jackson and Rick Derringer. Check out the entire thread. Rob

quote: Originally posted by trask: What's your excuse genius? The fact that you couldn't pass the bar? I rarely pass a bar. I almost always have to stop and get a drink. But I'd rather chew off my arm then be a lawyer. Tighty-whiteys all bunched up today? Hmmm? Sorry if I offended you Trask old boy. Just having fun. Rob

quote: Originally posted by trask: Now that I'm 14 years old and wiser. . .[ 02-14-2002: Message edited by: trask ] This explains a lot.

Freshies? I dont want to see no shots of freshies. Hell, I try and cover them up unless I am really trying to piss someone off then I'll leave a freshie right on the hood of their fucking car. Speaking of gremlins, I hear crack addict drives one that has a Ross Perot sticker on the back next to another sticker showing a jesus fish being buggered by a hippy. Get on wid yer bad self. Rob

I've done quite a bit of canyoneering in Zion. If you need some beta let me know and I can steer you in the right direction. Like the original poster, I went down with the intention of doing some climbing but it was just too damn hot. If you decide to do some canyoneering you will want to consider bringing along a wetsuit. Rob

quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: Fred is cool, but people who get a woody cause they're in the same room as him need to catch a clue. I used to think he was cool till I learned he is a member of the Mazamas. I'll buy him a beer just for being 80 and spanking the mountains though. Rob

Word straight from the pack designer at BD is that the Ice pack comes in two sizes which strangely are designed to fit two different back sizes. I have the 45L pack and whined about it being uncomfortable for heavy loads. He told me to get the 50L version. I dont know squat about the mixed master. The ice pack hip belt is removeable and the frame pad is removeable as well. Trifold design folds out into a short bivy pad. Its not very thick so I was thinking about slicing up a ridgerest and seeing how that works. I really like my ice pack but it sucks for carrying skis. Also, just because it has a huge collar on it, don't be tempted to pack your keg in it. Rob

Check out that rad spell check feature while you "serch" for "infernos." Dude Rib

I climb at Smith relatively frequently (I'm in Portland). My wife's just learning to climb so we spend a lot of time on the easy/moderate climbs. There are many fine, easy climbs at Smith that are quite a bit different from what you may be used to at Tieton (I've climbed moderates in both areas). The crumbly tuff at Smith will inspire you. The gorge area at Smith is similar to the basalt of the Tieton. Drop me a line if you want check out Smith. If those outward bound fuckwads ever stop clogging up the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face with their cattle train I plan on taking my wife up it. Maybe you'd like to make it a threesome? Rob

Things have seriously gone downhill from when I was in the Army. Brittney Spears? http://www.liquidgeneration.com/poptoons/britney_breasts.asp Enjoy Rob

Alex Lowe is quoted as once saying "the greatest climber is the one having the most fun." Fuck the numbers. I think its admirable that there are guys out there pushing their limits on sick shit. Getting out of bed damn near has me gripped some mornings. So what? Hero worship isn't what I'm hear for--its to compare penis size. As it stands I'm hung like a castrated ferret. Whats an 'avatar' anyway? Rob

Let me draw your attention to where I wrote "Zig Zag" and not Government Camp. I'm not asking about the Glade Trail which seems to be what you are commenting on. More specifically, I am interested in what is rumored to be a pretty fun tree run down the west side of hood, via Paradise Park down into the Ramona Falls area and out to Lolo Pass Rd. Hope this helps. Rob