rbw1966

Did you bother contacting their customer service department? (Sorry, I found it tedious to try and wade through your rant to see if you mentioned that). I've been happy with everything I've ever purchased from BDEL. Further, the three times I have had problems with gear (buckles breaking, tent pole punching through the bottom of my Bibler tent, ski pole breaking--three times), they've promptly repaired or replaced the item in question at their expense. And the service items were operator error--not quality of craftsmanship or materials. I wish I could say the same for the other manufacturers with whom I've had to deal. Your mileage, of course, may vary. Perhaps I am odd, but it seems to me that ranting without giving the company an opportunity to satisfy your concerns is bigoted.

There was one reasonably nice line early Saturday but by the time we got done with it the lower portion was melted out.

quote: Originally posted by texplorer: Well Cody that depends on your definition of ice. Your more likely to get in some really scary dry-tooling but if anyone can find ice, herbs, or general debauchery in P-town, Will's the man. There have been rumors that from time to time the gorge has ice for short periods. In some cases you have a matter of hours to take advantage of the conditions. Anyhow, good luck to you gentlemen on your ice capades. I was climbing the ice at ski bowel last weekend. It was way too warm but fun nonetheless. I'm sure its all melted out by now.

Worst ascent: Cayambe in Ecuador. Pick-up driver got a flat, then his spare went flat too. We had to hike about 5 miles to get to the hut. At 12K-15K. Worst decent: East Wilman Spire."going straight down that west gully looks a lot easier then the way we came up""yeah, more direct too""lets do it" 6 rapels off manky chockstones, one stuck rope and 5 hours later we are back at the bikes in Monte Cristo.

I am a retard. Every reference to "east" was meant as "west". Sorry

quote: Originally posted by Dru: you mean the one on monkey space or what? i dont got no pix of that one. cant free it yet. heard bolts were sketchy as of last fall too, some friends retreated. This is incorrect. I have freed it. There is one sketchy bolt just below the cave that can be backed up with a cam but you lose the use of the pocket. The route goes at 5.11b I believe. Getting out of the cave is the crux in my opinion. The exposure is gripping. This cave is east facing and a perfect spot for bivy but of course, illegally.

quote: Originally posted by MysticNacho: No, I'm talking about the other cave (the one that makes up the monkey's ear, not the pioneer route cave. Sleeping in that one would be a bitch, rolling around everywhere! Got any pics of the other cave Dru? You mean the east facing cave?

Its big enough to sleep in, although the east-facing cave is far roomier. Hauling to either cave would be a snap. Also, given the popularity of this route be prepared for lots of company and an early wake-up. Almost every time I've been to Monkey Face, Outward Bound has had a cattle train of 8-15 climbers heading up it. Usually around daybreak. I'd rant about this practice but I'd be willing to bet I'm not in the minority on this. Oh--and its not legal to camp in the park. But you already knew that and were just asking hypothetically right?

quote: Originally posted by KeithKSchultz: I love my radios, my beer, and my wife. Don't we all?

I dont think there are very many purely sport climbs at Beacon. At least not enough to make it worth the trip. I agree with Will about SE corner. On a weekend that route can be as bad or worse than the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face. Wear a helmet if you're down below. Beacon's a great place. There's also some pretty good bouldering in the area.

SE Corner is considered by many to be a classic. Free for All is a great line. Either bring some big gear for the lower part or be prepared to solo a long ways.

Monitor Ridge is pretty common in the winter as well. Try to find someone to drive you to the trailhead on a snowmachine.

quote: Originally posted by erik: patent expired It had not expired by the time Petzl manufactured them. And Lets be clear: Petzl licensed the design from Kong. Probably why they cost more from Petzl then Kong. I imagine the expired patent has something to do with BDEL's entry into the keylock foray.

Thin Air on Koala Rock (5.9 I think) is a pretty fun climb as well. Mixed trad and bolts. The start of the second pitch is the crux.

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: I picked up a couple of KBs saturday. I got the Camp ones. A couple of dollars cheaper than BD too. Also heard they are both made by the same company and are the same pitons. Another reason BD sux butt sometimes. [ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: rayborbon ] I suppose Petzl sucks as well since they sell the keylock biner at a significant mark-up from what Kong (the patent holder) sells them. It pays to shop around. Good score Ray.

quote: Originally posted by kweb: I have noticed that many gear lists for Denali suggest using 2 pads... a therm-a-rest and the ridge rest. Combined they offer an R value of 5.2. and weight of 30ozs (3/4 length ultra light and full length ridge rest). I currently use a Mt. Hardware High Mt. 60. R value is 6.75 and weighs 32ozs. While the overall thickness of the combo is 1.63" (compaired to 1.125"), 4 ounces lighter and 12" longer....The Mt. Hardware pad has a higher R value. What do you all think is a better choice? Take them both. I don't understand the discussion here--you are asking about Denali right? Its not like you're doing it Twight style in a single 4-hour push from Kahiltna International Airport. You're pulling a fucking sled, fer crissakes. Take all the damn pads you can carry, along with a few camp chairs and a gas-fired BBQ. You'll be damn glad you did. When your tent-bound for a week at 14K trying to negotiate the indentations in the snow melted out from the lack of protection your puny .3mm thick, 6" long frame pad that you pulled from inside your pack. . jesus, someone stop me now. You're going to have plenty of time to think about what you left behind. Bring an extra pad. You'll be glad you did. Put all the light stuff in your pack, load the sled with the heavy stuff then tell your partner you have lower back problems and can't pull a sled. Have a good time and sleep well.

Gone. Traded for fresh Barney bibs. I'm a slave to fashion.

quote: Originally posted by wayne1112: They will form when the Gorge does,and stick around a little longer. A better phrasing might be IF the Gorge does. We saw a little ice earlier in the season but nothing climbable. Anybody know if Pete's pile is in?

quote: Originally posted by bballer44: i-84 to hood river, hang a right and go about 30 miles. . . This will put you at Parkdale (approximately) and quite a ways from Timberline. If I'm going to Timberline I take the Troutdale exit as described above. Its the most hassle-free in my opinion. If I'm going just about anywhere else on the mountain I go through H.R. Its alot mroe scenic, even if its a lot longer. Besides, the pizza in H.R. is worth the stop.

quote: Originally posted by IceIceBaby: Randy Rackliff the owner and maker of this packs is, a very accomplish NE climber who design the pack because the market at the time (1990) didn’t have an alpine packs. He doesn't have a marketing campaign, no ads at the magazines, hell - he doesn't have an 800 number needless to say a web site. When you call his studio, you always get him and not a marketing rap. Basically, he is not here for the money he is all about making gear that works and transfer the saving from all the extra that mention above to the climbers, who really know what they looking for. Why do people insist on assuming manufacturers are not in it for the money? Why the hell else would someone go through the hassle of desing, construction and marketing? Its a business.

quote: Originally posted by imorris: Tough to do if you live in NE and commute to L. Oswego. There are other reasons to avoid Burnside besides traffic. But I won't let the thread creep. You already did.

quote: Originally posted by imorris: In bike accidents, you tend to quit for the day or head to the hospital after you kiss the bumper of that *#&$# 4.7L Range Rover on Burnside driven by the f'ing soccer mom on the cellphone trying to organize a dinner party as you're trying to get to work, so you can generally expect only a single impact. Hence the lightweight styrofoam style. Here's a thought: avoid Burnside during rush hour. For climbing my vote goes for the hard-shell helmets. Styros aren't designed for multiple impacts. When I'm doing that agony of defeat tumble off the Sandy Headwall I don't want pieces of my helmet beating me to the base. Plus I'm a slave to fashion.

I need some new bibs. I don't need this handgun (anymore). Anyone wanna trade?

You're kidding right? You can't get a bike across that footbridge west of the bridge that was destroyed? If my arthritic, 11 year old golden retriever can make it across you should have no trouble making it with a bike. I'd recommend carrying it on your shoulder rather than riding it though. Rumor has it the water is pretty cold. That's a great climbing area. Thanks to my friend Larry for showing me around there.

I have an aquaintance who lives in Bellingham and got busted by the canucks on his way into Canada with Mr. Greenjeans riding shotgun. They cavity searched him and charged him $500 for the honor. Now his name is in a database that gets him the stink-eye every time he crosses the border (which is often). A group of us (in seperate cars) went to Manning to ski. I was behind his truck. Before we even left he begged everyone to leave Mr. Greenjeans at home, along with any accessories. My friend got pulled to the side for extensive questioning and searching whilst we passed on through unmolested. Its not that hard to locate Mr. Greenjeans or his relatives in either Mexico or Canada. Why bother with the risk of taking it with you? Speaking of Mexico, I was talking with a guy who was in baja for a month climbing. He had aquired the services of Mr. Greenjeans whilst there and plum forgot about the accessories conveniently located in a pocket of his pack. US Customs agents quickly discovered it (hint: clean up a bit--shave, etc--before making a border crossing) and hassled him for quite a while. He had no actual herbage on his person or baggage--just a little ol' pipe. Eventually they let him go with the admonition, "I should prosecute you just for being so stupid." 'Nough said.