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Everything posted by Alex

  1. Looking for ice/ alpine partner

    No, the thing marked "Source Lake Line" is in fact Not Quite a Plum, and the thing marked "Rap Wall" is in fact Bryant Buttress/Hotline. Rap Wall is further down the hill, Source Lake Line is more over towards Chair Peak, at the top of the av gully that DPS and I almost died in long time ago.
  2. just as a basic remark, you gotta start *somewhere* right, there has to be a first glaciated thing you do? This isnt the worst choice you could have made, seems like you learned plenty from the trip,...
  3. Traverses

    Depends on how fast you move obviously but Ptarmigan gets done in single 24 hour pushes, a typical traverse itinerary is easy in 3 days including some summits incl Dome, you certainly don't need 5 days but it would make the trip extremely casual. I've tried Pickets N to S once and it is a different animal completely, it will be more time consuming and difficult. I have not completed this one. I dont know if your chosen time of year will jive well with a Shuksan-Nooksack trip, the better time to travel might be earlier in the summer for more snow coverage. There are other classic trips including an Entiat - Buck Creek pass loop you can construct, that might include things like Walrus Gl. etc..
  4. I think S Cascade Gl is comparable. As are a lot of the glaciers on the larger peaks, like Glacier Peak. But I think Blue Glacier is somehow a more magical spot, so close to the ocean, and different kind of scenery on the way in/out.
  5. great TR, thanks for bringing the spirit!
  6. European alps 2015

    cant wait to see this TR!
  7. Josh Lewis

    (Thanks Bob, I will join the ACC now!)
  8. Thanks for sharing. Two things stand out to me "I am very thankful to have survived such an ordeal." "November 15th I go for my first moderate hike above Cascade Pass with 12 miles of distance, almost 4,000 feet of elevation gain, and 15 pounds of gear on my back." Good on you for getting back out so soon after your accident. I bet that was very strange. I would take it slowly. This kind of stuff has happened to **ALL OF US** during our climbing and skiing (and sailing!) adventures, so you are not alone! Most people do not talk about these experiences because they are very scary, and sometimes best left in the dark recesses of the mind. They are not really badges of honor. Just reminders that we are short for this World.
  9. Best Beginner Trad Routes?

    Great Northern Slab at Index after a few dry days.
  10. Nice work getting up there, in normal conditions I would expect about a 2.5 hour approach with some snow filling in the holes and covering a lot of the brush, so without snow -4 hours- seems like low ROI, but all the better that you made the effort! The climbs themselves are relatively sheltered from direct threat by the trees above, but there is definitely hazard on the approach in normal snow years. The climbs are snowmelt fed, so the reason they are thin is because there isn't much feeding them yet. It's a hard place to time right. I think if there was a car-accessible spot to see the basin's condition, it would be visited more often.
  11. From Bob Loomis, separate thread Dec 7th "Hi Fellow Climbers, Thought I might give you a quick field report. Yesterday, 7 December, my friend, Nicholas and I went out to Banks Lake to see if the ice was in. It is. We ended up spending the day at the Devil's Punchbowl. There were minimal "death-cicles." The punchbowl itself is 80-90% filled in. The climb on the left--Trotsky's was in okay shape--water was running underneath, next to the ice so it was a bit hollow sounding but we each got several laps in and nothing fell down. We also replaced the old tree/bush slings at the top of Trotsky's with fresh perlon. The waterfall down below (Trotsky's something--cannot remember the name), close to the road, was not in. PeeWee's playground was mostly filled in. Miscellaneous ice was in down the road toward Coulee City. H2O2 is starting but not in, the Cable is starting but not in, Brush Bash is in, but thin. South of US 2, nothing seem in--not Children of the Sun, Clockwork Orange, etc. Warm temperatures and rain are in the forecast for the rest of the week so what we saw yesterday may be shortlived, but if it gets cold again it should rebuild fast. So, in sum, right now there is enough in to justify a first day on the ice and just get comfortable again--which is what it was for us. Hope this helps. Cheers, Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA."
  12. Banks Lake-Early December 2015 Report

    Thanks for the report! Copying this over to the ice condish thread, too.
  13. eyseonice, people here would love to help you, but this is a case where just looking at the available guidebooks to the Rockies (multiple authors), SW BC (Don Serl) and Washington State (me) for a few min might target your search more. Closest Rockies ice to Bellingham is probably located in Field, BC, if you are driving the TransCanada, or Bull River ice / Gibraltar Wall near Canal Flats BC, if you are driving I-90. The guidebooks are all available online on Amazon. Don Serl's is out of print however you can usually borrow a copy from a friend, and there are currently a few used offered on Amazon. "West Coast Ice by Don Serl". Mine here http://www.amazon.com/Washington-Ice-Climbing-Guide-Guides/dp/0898869463/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2 . There are multiple authors and printings for Rockies ice guides (I own 3 different ones) but you can usually get something useful from MEC in Vancouver or Calgary (or online) or a shop like Valhalla Pure in Canmore or Monods in Banff. HTH
  14. Hyalite Ice Conditions 2014/2015

    (@keenwash, yeah Canmore is cool )
  15. There is hope, certainly the higher the better. With the warm-up I would be very careful. What tends to happen is that the ice that was "set" on the base of rock becomes delaminated and water flows behind it, leading to both poorer pro (if that's possible! )and detached ice overall, especially top outs. The rock at the pass is not porous (like limestone is) so the ice never remains bonded to the rock when it warms up. But the good news is that there is a foot of snow up there now, which should both feed and preserve any ice that is still around for a bit.
  16. Thanks for all the reports! we warm up again with Rain on Thurs, but this is a fun pre-Thanksgiving diversion for sure!
  17. FS: Scarpa T1s, sz 6-7

    My wife switched to a different tele boot some years ago, these are now just sitting around. In good shape. Best Offer. http://images.craigslist.org/00T0T_5JNBFskrzXP_600x450.jpg
  18. closet cleaning-various winter stuff

    hey gene-o, I'll take the patapants and the full sidezip fleece pants from you.
  19. Frenches Dome Rebolt - Fall 2014

    thanks for your service.
  20. Ice Screws, Draws, Patagonia wool shirt

    I'll take your beacon. contact me recompense AT Hotmail DOT com for address / paypal
  21. Enchantments conditions

    don't know firsthand but assblaster pass is climbed all months of the year so I don't really know how it couldn't be safe. I wouldn't hesitate, if you have permits. This is the best time of year to go!
  22. Trip: Dolomites - Various Kid-friendly routes Date: 7/20/2014 Trip Report: My wife and I wanted to do a cool mountain trip with the kids that would be super kid friendly, allow my parents to participate (they live in Austria), but still be inspiring for us and not make our heads hurt too much with logistics or drama, so we chose to visit the Dolomites, Italy for a few weeks this Summer. We rented an apartment, which is what the rest of Europe does in this area, in the Summer and Winter. Having an apartment with a kitchen is important, as South Tyrol is very expensive and you would not want to eat out every day, or ever. We ate out twice the entire trip. It was the way to go! We've been training our little boys Max (6) and Zac (5) last few years and they really turned out to be very fast in the mountains and unafraid of the situations we put them in. Probably the hardest challenge with the kids was working on their motivation to do even short approaches. So, in hindsight, the Dolomites was perfect as the access is unrivaled! The weather was pretty unsettled in July so we fell into a routine of having about the first half of the day dry, and the latter half of each day threatened by thunderstorms, interspersed by rain days where we would just hang out. There were a lot of rain days, where we just went to the local market, or went to the ropes course, or some random playground. Day A We arrive in and stayed in Campitello di Fassa, a small commune just a few km down the valley from Canazei, which by any measure is a complete zoo. Campitello is much better. Day B We chose some easy stuff for the kids at first, as we did not really know what to expect. So we did the easiest via feratta there is: Grand Cir on the Gardena Pass. Hardly a feratta. The kids did it in fine style, were pretty bored, passed a lot of the adults going up and down the hill, and had the most FUN EVER! jumping on the trampoline at the Jimmy hut for hours! So, a success. Day C Summer and I decided to try some real climbing while my parents hung out with the kids, and this day turned out to be the best weather day we had the entire trip. We chose the Trenker route on the First Sella Tower, as a warm up. It is rated V, so...who knows what that means? It is very aesthetic looking, taking a large dihedral that divides a big face. The climbing was steep and basically only protected by fixed gear. Belays were mank. I got to lead the crux pitch, which was probably 5.7. We got in a queue behind some slower climbers but that was ok, until two Brits and their local guide showed up and we listened to the Brits slag the parties ahead of them for an hour or more while we waited. The local guide tried to be diplomatic but the Brits were complete dbags. Eventually, we all topped out and the route was fun! It started raining about a half pitch from the top. Day D We decided to do more of a mountain hike with the boys, and took the tram to Sass Pordoi and did a loop to the top of Biz Boe, the highest point of the Sella Group, and back. It was a decent day but at 3000+ meters quite a bit colder than the rest of the trip. We took a look at the Via Maria and it looks awesome! We wanted to do this route the entire trip but never actually got a full dry day. Day E Clearly Grand Cir was too easy for the kids, so we opted to go back for Picollo Cir/ Cir V, which is a bit harder, especially since we knew the kids would say yes if there was a trampoline party at the end. Day F Summer and I took another half day to ourselves, and, in the interest of doing as much terrain as possible, we elected to do a feratta instead of a roped climb. We launched into the Brigatta Tridentina, which all the doers of via feratta seem to rave about, it is very famous, at the Gardena Pass. The climb went very quickly for us, and it was really amazing to both see how much steep terrain one can climb very quickly in the Dolomites, how long the queue was to climb this famous thing in high season, and how many noobs were on this route completely freaking out because it was the first time ever in the mountains. It wasn't easy to help people here, as the thing is pretty much one-way, but it goes quickly. I found the deproach much more interesting and scenic than the ascent, but it was fun doing all that climbing at maximum speed, essentially soloing. Day G Its hard to keep track now of what order stuff happened, but we went to Venice for a rain day. Day H Summer and I ran for a quick half day and climbed the Steger route on the first Sella Tower, hoping to do the trip that mvs did at some point in the past, climbing Steger and then climbing the second Sella Tower via the Right Crack, which we saw up there on the first outing. Unfortunately, the rain started pretty much in earnest on second to last pitch, which is quite steep (Summer's lead) and then was really coming down on the last pitch, my pitch, through a wet overhanging chimney. The fixed pro was pretty good, and the crux move was a wet slimy hand jam but it got us to the top, and we bailed on climbing Sella II that day. Day ? We wanted to push the boys a little bit more, as Picollo Cir had turned out to be a walk in the park for them, they climbed literally as fast as we did on the feratta, and we also felt that Brigata Tridentina was a little too long of an outing for a 5-year old, so were looking for something steeper and longer but not TOO long. We opted for Piz da Lec, which is a Feratta on the exact opposite side of the Sella group from Campitello. After an hour driving and a couple of ski lifts and so on, we arrived at the base of what turned out to be a very steep climb. These things are equipped for adults, and adults reach, and so the kids cannot typically use the iron to advance on the rock on the steep sections; Piz da Lec was definitely like this - they had to climb the whole thing like a rock climb. The ladder at the top has yawning exposure, and we had the only child-meltdown of the trip at the top of the second ladder. Still, highly recommended as the walk-off is kind and the whole outing very balanced. Day ?? Winding down towards the end of the trip now, one more outing to the Lagazuoi Tunnels for a bit of World War 1 history. It was already drizzling when we left the parking lot but were able to motivate the troops enough to get to the tunnel entrance, and the latter half of this climb is entirely inside the mountain. We emerged in a full blown thunderstorm, and ran for the tram station between strikes. Wrap up This was a great adventure for our little climbers, and was a pretty easy trip for us. We brought a full assortment of climbing gear but ended up using not that much of the rack. For the trade routes, seems you can get by with just a few supplemental pieces. The kids did great, it was pretty easy trip for them too they got lots of treats on the rain days and there were a lot of family friendly things to do Approach Notes: Northern Italy. Take a right.
  23. The close up of the N side of Hood looks very regal!