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Everything posted by Alex

  1. Climbing goggles

    Dan, I use a pair of Smiths with a clear lens. I initially bought them because they were the only thing REI had with a clear lens and I was in a hurry, but have since grown to like them. Not sure what model, but it was nothing fancy, about 50$. I wear them over glasses, and at belays the glasses fog up, but not the goggle, but once I get climbing again, everything is fine. Don't really need to see much at a belay anyway I've used them a few times in the Cascades and Banff. I think Carrera makes really nice goggles that are well vented and go over glasses as well, but I have not been actively looking for a replacement for the Smiths... The only thing I have found that cuts down on fogging is you must absolutely resist wiping the inside of the lens, or taking the goggle off and wearing them on your arm/forehead. Once they go on, they need to say on to perform well. This pisses me off because I find the nosepiece on the Smiths (all goggles really) restricts my breathing through my nose, and am very prone to taking the goggles off my face at a rest stop, but I am learning to deal. Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 10-25-2000).]
  2. In addition to those suggestions already posted. Static Point, out of Sultan, has some wonderful classic moderate slab routes, including Online (10a), which gets progressivly harder as you get higher on the route (6,7,8,9,10a) - obviously you don't have to go to the top to enjoy the route. It is best to climb there in the late Spring or fall, as its Southern exposure lends itself to climbing in the sun. Washington Rock Climbs by Smoot has details on the approach. Another interesting suggestion is the Tooth, a staple among Seattle climbers. It is about 40 min approach from Snoqualmie Pass parking lot, and offers 4 pitches of up to 5.6 on the South Face, or other opportunitites. It can be found in Selected Climbs in the Cascades Vol 1.
  3. "Business Climbing"

    I posted something, but it was off-topic. Sorry. [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 10-23-2000).]
  4. Who's for the climbers? Bush v. Gore

    "Bush - hes a stronger leader.." Lhoste with the cool name, I have never met you but that makes me cringe. Bush has no record of leadership, how can you make such an unprovable statement? Bush has shown time and again in public that he lacks the experience to make the kinds of decisions a president will make - this did not stop Reagan, either, and if you tell me that all Bush needs to do is surround himself with very smart and experienced people, I would agree with you that he could hold office. (But anyone could, with that argument.) Thats why he picked Cheney. But individual intelligence and more importantly, individual experience counts big with me. Bush has none. Gore has 20+ years. Regarless of the issues, if anyone has a provable record of strong leadership skills, its Gore. Don't forget to vote! Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 10-20-2000).]
  5. test

    [ 08-14-2002, 10:46 AM: Message edited by: Alex ]
  6. Where the big sales are!

    The best place to get gear is not in the US. People North of the border have been getting the real deal (REI is not the real deal) for over 20 years: Mountain Equipment Coop. Your American dollar goes a long way in Canada!
  7. "Business Climbing"

    Hi, this is an interesting question that I have given some thought over the years. The short answer is, Americans and Europeans need heros, and the media caters to that. Ther is nothing wrong with funding, any professional would love to be paid (more) for what they love to do. Media coverage is not evil, it simply gives people what they want - Real TV, Survivor. People want to live vicariously through others. As for the Poles and the Czechs, the hard routes established in the Himalaya and elsewhere are no different. Easter European climbing was state and club sponsored for a very long time, making notable achievment necessary for continued funding abroad. If you were a Pole and wanted to climb, you better have some results after each season, to show your club or state that you deserved continued funding. The fact that the Pole and Czech (etc) contributions eclipse most Western contributions is a factor of the severity of failure under two distinct systems (western, and soviet). In the West, if you back off a hard route, chances are your sponsor will not drop you - you lived to climb and speak on tour another day. In the East, things are a little different. The Czechs who did Sultana and hard routes on Denali didn't go home to any better conditions, rarely went home to speaking tours, but didnt have a chance in hell of coming back should they fail. The need to succeed is higher, the result is a commitment to severity that is often missing in Western accomplishments
  8. Hardest Routes in the Cascades

    The most difficult route in the Cascades is the one no one has done yet. Doing hard summer routes, such as NE Rib on Slesse, in the winter, would certainly make things more interesting. Willis Wall, Yocum Ridge and routes like it were done back in the day (60s, 70s), and are completely within the possible for even the average climber. Armed with modern tools and protection (and weather forecasting), these routes are pretty much "well, how much objective hazard do you like? OK, then, off you go!"
  9. Who's for the climbers? Bush v. Gore

    Its really quite simple. Gore is pro-environment, Bush is pro-business concerns. There isnt much of a surprise there. Neither candidates policies will directly affect climbing..... ...unless you plan to climb in the Brooks Range. Alex