Alex

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I have both a Pieps 457 and an older Ortovox dual frequency beacon. I like the Pieps better, mostly for aesthetic reasons, but both are serviceable. The Ortovox is from the days of yore where you had to plug in an earpiece, and there is no visual cue (unlike newer Ortovox beacons). The best avalanche beacon is the one you use regularly - even my decrepit Ortovox is better than nothing in the backcountry, and since I have two I never have to put up with the lame excuse "uhh, I don't own one" when heading into the backcountry. I paid 100$ each for my beacons; from various places around the country you can buy them for as little as 150$ new. An avalanche beacon is the second most important piece of gear you can own after a helmet for winter climbing and skiing. People who don't have them and venture out there anyway are, frankly, amateurs looking to get tagged. Alex

...is in! Here is the updated URL to the BC Ice conditions Page (more pictures, full updates): http://www.bivouac.com/casbc/ice0001.htm These photos taken Nov 18, 19 2000, courtesy Lyle Knight. See you up there! Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 11-29-2000).]

looks like the local forecast is starting... http://www.seawfo.noaa.gov/products/SABSEA "A 2 week period of dry cool weather prior to last weekend caused considerable faceting and weakening of previous snow. In addition significant accumulations of very weak surface hoar up to .5 to 1.5 inches had developed on most shaded and wind sheltered slopes. In many areas the overall shallow snow cover, terrain and vegetation anchoring should still be limiting the avalanche potential on many slopes. But the underlying layers may only marginally support potential new slab layers and new snow. This should be most likely a bit east of the crest and near the Cascade passes where less warming and rain may have been seen during the weekend storm cycle. Generally avalanches should be most likely on perennial snow and on slopes with a smooth underlying ground surface."

Pins: All pins racked by type on different biners: RURPS, beaks. All on one biner. Kinfeblades. All facing the same direction/orientation, smallest to largest on one biner. Lost arrows. Put onto biner alternating sides, i.e. facing left, facing right, facing left etc. You can get about 4 on a biner this way. angles. I only use bably angles, but you can rack them like lost arrows, alternating. I get about 3 per biner, but I rarely if ever carry more than 3 on a route, unless the topo tells me to. Bugaboos. Some people racke them with the knifeblades, I do too if only carrying a few pins total. For real nail ups, I rack them seperately, but the same way. Hooks. Get caught on everything! I put them on a seperate biner, and put them someplace where they wont hookl everything. Alex

Check out the conditions on Colchuck Peak under the "Alpine Lakes" section of this web site. It has not snowed since we were there two weeks ago, so conditions will likely be similar.

Looks like Rock and Ice have finally re-opened the bulletin board for 2000-2001 ice conditions: http://www.rockandice.com/index.phtml?section=ice

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Heinrich, lets go find out Saturday! Alex, recompense@hotmail.com

Probably some type of Cro - Moly Steel (and you say, duh!) Dan, you may just want to call SMC (makers of the ubiquitous SMC 12-point strap on dildo...err crampon and other various general moutaineering implements) or MSR, both are local companies that make climbing equipment using steel. I tried looking up SMC's website, but I couldnt remember if they were Seattle Manufacturing Co, Seattle Machine Co, or something else, and it seems "SMC" is a pretty common acronym... Cheers, Alex

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"Continental snowpack" is the term I should have used, thanks!

The clear and cold conditions, with sunshine and light fluffy snow on the ground, are certainly much more like the drier ranges (Rockies) than the maritime conditions we usually experience (warm, wet). I was surprised by the lightness of the snow last weekend even at low elevations, it is very unlike the PNW, a very temperate snowpack thus far. This is significant, as the light (in water content, weight) snow on the ground now (about a foot at 3500 ft, more higher) will be a weak layer if it gets loaded by heavier snow in the short term. Not only that, but the clear conditions and sunshine also lead to surface hoar on that layer, making for better layer lubrication if and when new snow is deposited. The continued cold temps in the mountains dont help stabilize the pack, there is not going to be as rapid aging and transformation of the crystals as with warm weather. In order to stave off the hazard, we need some prolonged warming, and rain, with as little new load on the pack as possible, or, if there is new load, then a hell of alot of it to compress and stabilize that first layer. I think you'll see lots of slide activity in the alpine either way the next time it snows!! Alex Addendum: areas where hazard will be worst, will vary. * On N facing slopes that are not exposed to sun, you'll have little consolidation, to this will be more hazardous, but thats pretty typical in almost any snowpack. * I think this snow will be more susceptible to wind transfer than usual, so leeward slopes will get heavily loaded, and slab packs could form more so than they typically do in the Cascades, where the snowpack settles very quickly due to water content, weight and temps. I think anywhere where the snowpack can be loaded by wind transfer are places to avoid during the next cycle. * Below treeline, this is reversed. Wind transfer, hoar formation less likely to occur, so I'd say the alpine zone is going to be more prone than usual to large releases, depending on the next cycle. But consider: with a cold, weak ground layer, if we get significant precip in the alpine during the next cycle, you could see very large slab releases that go down to the ground! Ugly! Run for cover! [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 11-14-2000).]

Guys, I'm certainly no expert. I'm just going off what I seem to see in the Rockies every year - that is to say, my familiarity with temperate snowpack, and the real FEAR it instills in me, is probably biasing my assessment. Would be nice to have some paralax..? As to depth hoar, I thought about that too, but to be honest I don't know if its an issue or not - it is warm ground followed by cold precip or cold ground followed by cold preceip that would result in ground layer hoar? Actually, we currently have 2 significant precipitation events...certainly the snowfal Dan Smith, Nick and I ran into at about 6000 ft a few weeks ago is the base layer. This was also light snow, not as light as the next layer, which fell about a week ago now or more, and to much lower elevations. How will the 2 layers interact? My guess is that they are both good sliding layers, especially if the next cycle is triggered by heavy wet snowfall (a warm front with lots of precip - a Southwesterly flow). Alex

I'll go if you go in January or later... Alex

Well, if the truth must be known I also own AT gear, but I use that for approaches pretty much. But no I don't ski tele on double camber edgeless boards with low-top boots.

Jens, its a long shot but Dan McHale might. McHale & Co. www.aa.net/mchalepacks/

Infidel, you will burn in HELL! for not freeing your most sacred HEELS! (accursed jump turns through powder! Begone EVIL heretic!)

I'm actually writing an article on bars and goo, as well. I've "taste-tested" about 25 different ones, and will have some nutritional info on them, maybe we can collaborate? As for my favorites so far: Luna Bars/Clif Bars, various flavors. Genisoy Bars, especially the mint, but anything they make is usually pretty good. PowerGel, vanilla and Strawberry/Bananna. The double caffeine tangerine tastes horrible! I really liked Clif Shots when they came in the toothpaste tubes. Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 11-06-2000).]

Colchuck Peak Current Conditions: --------------------------------- Colchuck Glacier Route, snow level 6500, getting deep at 7000, postholing and also thin layer over water ice on the glacier to the col. Crampons not used but I would bring them anyway for the ice near the col. Going to the summit was a complete grunt (an hour up, 10 min down). This is a great route for November! Alex K, Mike S

Eldorado approach (via Eldorado and Roush (?) basins) is currently straightforward to the notch. Snow level is at around 6000 feet, making the going across the slabs and heather a little slippery. The plateau at 7200 has a foot of new snow on it, making travel here slow and tiring. The East Ridge is currently in fine shape, we did not see the condition of the other routes. If you are planning a trip up to do the E ridge, its a fine time to go. If you plan to do something else, plan for lots of time on the approach as the snow and glacier conditions do not make for speedy travel right now. Alex

Speaking of which, I noticed N Face of Pyramid is another Ruch/Cotter route. Anyone seen this thing and what it might be like? Thanks in advance. ------------------ Wimp Climber http://www.mountainwerks.com/alexk/

Atle, Snoqualmie Pass is often in the clouds during weather like we are having now, so if its not raining outright, the route can still be damp. That said, it is very possible to climb the Tooth even when it is wet! The forecast is looking like 50% chance of rain, so I'd get at it and up it as quick as you can between the raindrops! Otherwise, the approach is very straightforward. Alex

Dan, I use a pair of Smiths with a clear lens. I initially bought them because they were the only thing REI had with a clear lens and I was in a hurry, but have since grown to like them. Not sure what model, but it was nothing fancy, about 50$. I wear them over glasses, and at belays the glasses fog up, but not the goggle, but once I get climbing again, everything is fine. Don't really need to see much at a belay anyway I've used them a few times in the Cascades and Banff. I think Carrera makes really nice goggles that are well vented and go over glasses as well, but I have not been actively looking for a replacement for the Smiths... The only thing I have found that cuts down on fogging is you must absolutely resist wiping the inside of the lens, or taking the goggle off and wearing them on your arm/forehead. Once they go on, they need to say on to perform well. This pisses me off because I find the nosepiece on the Smiths (all goggles really) restricts my breathing through my nose, and am very prone to taking the goggles off my face at a rest stop, but I am learning to deal. Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 10-25-2000).]

In addition to those suggestions already posted. Static Point, out of Sultan, has some wonderful classic moderate slab routes, including Online (10a), which gets progressivly harder as you get higher on the route (6,7,8,9,10a) - obviously you don't have to go to the top to enjoy the route. It is best to climb there in the late Spring or fall, as its Southern exposure lends itself to climbing in the sun. Washington Rock Climbs by Smoot has details on the approach. Another interesting suggestion is the Tooth, a staple among Seattle climbers. It is about 40 min approach from Snoqualmie Pass parking lot, and offers 4 pitches of up to 5.6 on the South Face, or other opportunitites. It can be found in Selected Climbs in the Cascades Vol 1.