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Alex

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  1. I found some very good deals at REI (Flagship) last night - La Sportiva Trango Plus for 99$, with about 8 boxes sizes from 42-45 left. This is Sportiva's premier summer alpine climbing boot. Might want to call the store and put your size on hold if you are interested. Also Powerade was on sale for 4.99 the 2 pound can. I bought 5 cans (they make nice gifts)! I don't know how much there is left.
  2. Jon Fisher, you are absolutely right in saying Americans are more into the wilderness experience than technical climbing. Which is why American climbers will always suck. Except for Lynn Hill! Drawing from our American Car Culture, I would personally rather see a paved road to Kennedy Hot Springs. Maybe it would come a few hundred yards shy, so as not to overly disturb the hordes of tourists who would then show up. On that note, those blasted people in Colorado have (count em!) TWO roads to the summits of 14,000 foot peaks, why do we have to stop at Paradise, I would rather see it go to Muir at least, and have it be plowed year round. I also think the road should be extended to top of Palmer on Hood, so I don't have to walk those boring miles and can still feel good about not taking the snow cat. That way Rainier becomes a day trip, as it should be, and Hood becomes and after-work training hike, like Mt Si. Hell, with W in office, if we band together, we can get the Wilderness Act repealed and get the roads and huts we need into all those pristine climbing areas! A road into Cirque of the Towers sure would be nice. We could offer support for drilling the ANWR (no climbing there, so who cares?) in exchange for a set of roads and huts into the most majestic alpine climbing areas. Yeah, I can see it all now.... [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 01-10-2001).]
  3. The US organized climbing scene is lame. On that note, US climbing rags are lame. Like, I REALLY want to know about another route in Eldorado Canyon. Of course, if we had HUTS! like those wily Canadians, alot more people would likely suddenly be interested in joining the alpine clubs. Imagine, a hut system throughout the Cascades - a hut at the base of the E Ridge of Eldorado, a hut at Goat Pass on Mt Stuart...a gondola to Colchuck Lake from Icicle Canyon! If we had real climbing rags, like the old Mountain from days of yore, we might know something about other places to climb, other than Eldorado Canyon that is. Oh well. Alex Alpingesellschaft, Die Peilsteiner
  4. I think the point is, that with BPs the point is moot, as you can mix and match to whatever your climbing style. Dan, if your budget is really that tight, then just buy one tool. One thing to note, the BP adze is a godsend for just about everything. Makes real nice work of steep snow when topping out on a route and the ice runs out. You cannot say the same for non-modular Black Diamond adzes. Another thing to note: the "old" x-15s were all made with carbonfiber shafts, bonded rubber or no. I found the Prophets have a better swing than the old and new X-15s, especially with the curved shaft.
  5. Actually, they named their tool after the French Climber, Christophe Profit. Just kidding, its spelled "Prophet", and (as you know ) thats my vote! Alex
  6. Zeno, I use the "original" Wild Country Rocks in addition to the BD Stoppers, they make a nice addition to the rack. I like size 2,3 and 4. I would suggest you also supplement your rack with some BD copper-steel nuts in their larger sizes and especially check out Hugh Banner Offsets. The Offsets and nuts like them (RPs) are not exactly made for holding long leader falls, but they also hold in small cracks and pin scars like nothing else. I like the Offsets better than RPs, but a mix is always good.
  7. Alex

    Local Ice

    ##### [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 04-10-2001).]
  8. I bought a pair of Mnt Hardwear Altitude gloves yesterday, they are 49$ retail. They are made, not with Gore-Tex, but with "Conduit" material. Although the gloves are not taped (the mitts are), thats nothing SeamGrip can't help. Does anyone own or use the Condiut material or own the Altitide glove? How waterproof is waterproof on these gloves? How durable is the palm on these gloves? Any issues?
  9. I would like to try to call a polite halt to the Mountaineer bashing. I sometimes shudder at my own incompetence in the field, and would like to humbly remind us all that we all had to start somewhere, that we were all gumbys once. I log on here for good info and intelligent discussion. Lets try to keep the flame sessions on rec.climbing or at least to Private Messages, eh? Thanks!! Alex
  10. Hi SHW, welcome to the Pacific Northwest, where you will find lots of interesting things to do, and a fun and friendly (sometimes) climbing community too! I had a girlfriend who has taken the WAC course and know many people who "are" Mountaineers. The basic courses are pretty comparable in that you will get a decent group-style introduction to climbing with either. Through the group and the membership organization, you can find other people of similar ability to climb and grow with. They do not honor each others courses because, quite simply, these are rival social organizations, they are not "technical" certifications. The climbing courses only hold value to the particular organization with which you are participating - frankly, most other climbers couldn't care less whether you've completed some course or not; climbing competance can be ascertained pretty easily. Most people (myself included) have a somewhat guarded view of WAC'ers, Mazamas and Mountaineers because novice members of these orginizations have been featured in some prominent rescues and accidents over the years and its generally thought that large groups, such as Basic Course outings, tend to impact the environment and are unsightly in the backcountry. Fair or not, thats the perception. Given a choice, I would attend both group's meetings and see who you click with better. Outside the organizations, as I said, the membership and course graduation has dubious value... Alex
  11. With all due respect to Yvonne, Black Diamond has done nothing inovative since the first X-15 came out, and the fin gate. I still have my pair of Chouinard X-15s, and live and breathe by them. But you know, the neutrino isnt the only light biner on the market...there is the Helium. The wire gate is only evangelized by BD, it was used in sailing ages before it was used in climbing. Carbon fiber glue R&D does not impress me, as many many other industries, including bikes, aerospace etc use carbon fiber and have had to learn how to glue "stuff". So sorry, I remain unimpressed - BD offers a decent and thoughtful product, but I would say that and more about Petzl, Kong, Camp, Charlet, Grivel, Salewa, Trango, and other manufacturers. Aux Vieuex Campeur is a great shop in Paris that I am a big fan of, I did not know they were online! They have large buying power in Europe. Still, I think prices elsewhere in Europe are pretty high! Alex
  12. North Sister - NE Arete Just wanted to share with you all a wonderful climb that most Washington climbers might not be familiar with, since its so far South - the NE Arete on North Sister in the Three Sisters Wilderness in Oregon! North Sister is an aesthetic peak with varied terrain and easy access, even in winter. In 1994 I was climbing and living in Oregon, working as a research assistent for the Oregon Cooperative Fish and Wildlife Research Unit, and had lots of time to climb in the Oregon Cascades and at Smith. I chose this route because a month prior, in May, I had attempted the Early Morning Couloir, and had been stormed off. My partner climber the NE Arete 2 weeks later, sans moi, and, not to be outdone, I wanted to go finished my unfinished business. I decided to do something new and different for me, a moonlight solo! I picked a weekend with full moon in June and set out from Pole Creek so I would arrive at the base of the E Face before dark, the Villard Glacier approach. Indeed, I arrived at about 7:30 pm, and decided that in order for it to be considered a real night climb, I would have to wait until after dark to proceed. So I sacked out and watched the sun go down over Oregon. The air was still, the night clear. At 8:30 I set out. The freedom that I experienced while climbing up the steepening snow to the NE Shoulder in the next several hours will long stand in my mind as definitive and superlative. The sunset and moonrise, the vast views North to Mt Adams and South to past Thielsen, the Cascade crest silent and peaceful, the movement of crampons and tools over snow elevated me to something more. I had set out to prove myself better than my partner with this climb, and instead I discovered the simplicity and harmony of the alpine night solo. The majesty and beauty of the Oregon Cascades below my feet, North Sister became the teacher. I reached the shoulder of the summit ridge far too soon. It wasnt even midnight! This was not according to plan, I had expected to reach this point much later, as my proposed summit time was sunrise, about 5am. The summit was now only an hour away, and my partner had sternly warned that I not attempt to solo the summit pinnacle in the dark. So I tried to bivy. I had a bivy sack and some clothing, but no sleeping bag, no down sweater. I put on everything I had, climbed into the bivy bag with a 3/4 length pad at 10,000 feet on North Sister, and was comfortable for about 20 minutes. Then I started shivering and freezing. After an hour of fitful sleep and uncontrolled shivering, I at last broke open the emergency space blanket and wrapped myself in it. I did not get any colder, but by 2am I had had enough. I got out of the bivy, packed my rucksack, and headed over to the summit cone along the summit ridge. Here at the col where Early Morning Couloir tops out is a steep fourth class step about 30 feet high, with one fixed pin. I hesitantly tried out the steep neve, scratched up the steep section with my tools and crampons on, moved out on frontpoint holds above dizzying exposure, and commited to the last few moves. I summitted at around 4 am. The descent saw me hurrying along the gendarmes of the SE Spur, trying to get down before the snow softened up too much. I made it down to treeline by around 7am, the last 12 hours comprising still one of the most wonderful climbs I've ever done! Alex
  13. Even with prices at Barrabes being as low as they are, climbing is a luxury sport in Europe. Don't be fooled into thinking retail prices are any cheaper in most of Europe for most climbing goods than they are in the U.S. In Vienna (where I am sitting at the moment) there are only a few shops that sell anything technical. Those shops charge just as much or more for technical gear as you will find in the U.S., and Austria is an EC country, which means tariffs from France and Germany are not any different than in those countries. It is true you will find some things somewhat cheaper here, Alpine Touring bindings for example are 25-30% less. But you can't buy a decent ice tool for less than 200$ US here in Austria either. I am not a big fan of the US outdoor retail market's pricing or efforts to shut out competition from overseas. I do not support Black Diamond and do not buy their products. Evenso, it isnt that easy to get better prices on some merchandise. Just some perspective, Alex
  14. I have been into the lake and route in Nov, March and April of various years. I believe the route itself will be in climbable shape. However, I believe avalanche danger will be significant, based on the years snowpack history and the current conditions. The route itself is a loaded gun. There is no escape or shelter from slides once you get on the route; I believe the approach slope above the lake will be a good indication of what conditions are like in the first couloir. Dig a pit here, "try before you buy". It is steep enough to give you some indication near the mouth of Hidden. I would be extremely wary if you *didnt* see real fresh slide debris at the base of Hidden Couloir. If you decide to go for Hidden, conditions will change as you enter couloir 2/NF and couloir 3; these are higher up, "drain" less face-area, but might have completely different snow conditions. Alex
  15. I use an Ushba down bag for the Summer, it weighs 1.4 pounds and is very compact. Combined with all the clothes you bring on a trip its right for anything in the Cascades from March to October. My girlfriend uses an Integral Designs synthetic bag that is also very light and compact; both purchased from Jim Nelson. In the Winter I use a North Face Superlight down bag, bought 1994. I've slept in it (rated 5'F) down to -20'F without too much difficulty. In Alaska I used a Dryloft -25'F down bag. It was slightly warmer than the Superlight, but the dryloft was the key. The temps never got below -30'C. If you only have the budget for one purchase, I would suggest a Marmot, Feathered Friends, or similar quality 20'F down bag. Dryloft is only useful if you don't use a tent much (I use a tent). Alex
  16. Cool, ok, I'll stop doing that... Alex
  17. yes. ".., though cord is another story." Sorry I did not make clear that I was only referring to spectra webbing. As I understand it: "Whats best for alpine runners, v-threads, all-around good juju accessory material?" Couple of considerations: 1) Strength. Yes, Spectra cord, Gemini, Maxim whatever is the best. 2) Ease of Use. Depending on exactly what, it can also be hard to cut, tie, and work with. 3) Cost. Unless you like paying 2-3$ a foot, other stuff can easily substitute for spectra cord. 4) Wear. Cord wears slower than webbing in general, less surface area to volume. 5) UV resistance. For slings left in the field, its best to use something more UV resistant. Spectra tends to break down pretty quick, but I am not sure how it is compared to other materials. With that in mind: Spectra cord for: things involving anchors, things where high strength is required, things you wont leave behind often or use alot of length for. Perlon cord for: things involving body weight only, things you leave behind like rap slings and v-threads spectra and nylon webbing for: things that require medium strength, do not suffer from continual wear, things you leave behind like rap slings and v-threads Sorry to be long-winded Alex
  18. Spectra is too slippery to tie in knots safely, so you can't take slings and tie them, though cord is another story. 6mm perlon has a breaking strength of only 1000 pounds, so this is a poor choice for runners and should only be used as rap cord, v-thread material, or prussiks. for cordalettes I use 5.5 Gemini or technora or take your pick. Something strong. for runners I use a combination: spectra *sewn* slings and tubular nylon webbing tied slings, to leave behind. Spectra is lighter, stronger and better, nylon is cheaper. Best bet is to carry a good assortment of all of these things. Versatility is #1 in the alpine... Alex
  19. Alex

    Local Ice

    ##### [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 04-10-2001).]
  20. Forrest, I did agree with you what was best in general, but Colin already has the 9.4, which is why I suggested he get the 6mm. As to the double/twin stuff, I climb on double ropes, but often clip then to both pieces (twin technique) when the route does not wander much. I do not agree with you that the strands increase the impact force much, as you must realize that even the best belayer with not have the ropes exaclty "matched up" through their device, which will unevenly load the strands initially during the fall, especially in the alpine where you are not necessarlity climbing within sight of your belayer, or have a tight belay. Well, thats what I think anyway, but have no proof. I've taken plenty of lead falls (!!) on doubles as doubles and doubles as twins (Dan Smith can personally attest to several screamers at Index), and have not noticed any difference. You also point out that doubles can be used "singly" in lightweight applications and I agree, I routinely use a single strand of 8.5 for glacier travel and 4th class alpine routes. I think all the posts here so far, Lowells idea (sounds very influenced by ski patrol practices I am familiar with), dbb, Forrest, all these systems are proven in the alpine, and it really does come down to personal preference.
  21. Colin, I'm thinking 180 degrees from Forrest, and suggest you get the 7mm. I've been working with two different systems lately, both have their uses. I got in the habit of climbing on two strands of 8.5 mm ice climbing (both as twin or as double), and I really like this system. I also use this same rope system sometimes for trad routes in the summer. The upside is reduced rope drag, the psychological comfort of having *something* still on you if you chop a line leading or following ice climbing, and the very smooth and handy 3-person party system where the leader leads the belays the followers up simultaneously with a GiGi. The downside is some serious rope management is need to make this work at hanging belays or small ledges. If you were starting clean slate, I'd say go for this rope system. The rope management aspect is serious, but you'll be able to cope if you are very careful. The other system I've been using is a 70m 9.4 single PMI lead line for alpine rock. This is similar to the thing you have going now. I either take just it (allowing 35m raps) or I take 45m of 6mm. Upside is rope management is much improved over dual strands, and *man* you can lead really really long pitches with 70m or rope! Downside is that there is no weight savings with this system over twin/double system. The psychological safety net for ice climbing is gone, too, so I am still reluctant to climb ice on single strands. Forrest raises a real and legitimate issue that if you plan to really beat on your ropes, a 6mm or 7mm zip line has no place in the mountains, and I would tend to agree with him, but I have never actually had to use this thin strand line in a retreat yet, so I have not had any bad experiences with it. I guess for routes where the decent is known to be rap'ing off, I would bring beefier lines. But, you already have the 9.4 line, so why buy more ropes? the 7mm zip line will be a cheap (and light) addition for your trip, compared to two new strands of 8-9mm that you will only use half the time. I would go 7mm, use it until its time to retire your lead line, then assess again and decide whether its time to replace with dual strands. [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 12-07-2000).]
  22. I've been "around" on Yocum, though I don't want to say that I've actually climbed it. You need very very cold conditions to climb Yocum, a strong arctic high pressure system is what you want. I think the lower ridge is pretty straighforward past the third gendarme, with some traverses around the gendarmes. The upper cliff I guess is the crux, I have not been past here, but there is a "bail out" couloir that leads back down into Leutholds. However this "bail out" is pretty damn steep and scary(!). Yocum is pretty non-committing if you want to just get out there, cross the Reid, and poke around to see what conditions are like. If they suck, go up Leutholds. If they are good, you doo have a chance to bail at the half-way point. Oregon High by Jeff Thomas has some very good route info on Yocum Ridge. Alex
  23. A scene from Pulp Fiction comes to mind now, Bruce Willis and co. tied up...(substitute snowleopard)...an offscreen voice (substitute mikeadam) saying "go get the Gimp!"....
  24. Classic routes: In my mind, a classic route in the Cascades has several characteristics: 1) The experience on the route was trancendental. My number one criterion for a classic route is, did I have so much damn fun, I couldnt contain myself? Did I look at the sunrise and realize that *this* is why I am in the mountains? Did I flow through the moves and think, I wish this route could go on forever? 2) It is superlative in many ways to other routes of similar technical difficulty in the range. A classic route is one that is superlative, and one of the easiest ways to make the distinction is to choose from a set of routes with similar attributes. It is more difficult to compare when routes have dissimilar attributes; how to compare the Emmons Glacier with North Ridge of Stuart? Still, after climbing a number of routes with similar attributes, when you know that by popular consesensus or some other measurement (Beckey says so) this set represents a rounded selection of routes in the range, you find that one stands out in memory as a better experience than the rest, you may have a classic on your hands. 3) It is superlative in aesthtics in line and character a classic route has purity of line and character. On rock routes this may mean following a significant feature, like the N Ridge of Stuart, or NW Butress on Sless. On a Volcano it might mean surmounting the Kautz ice cliff, or climbing Lib Ridge. This is why I have always thought Lib Ridge more "classic" than Ptarmigan - Ptarmigan is a bit contrived, going hither and yon all over the place. Lib Ridge is a straight shot. 4) It is varied and challenging, mentally stimulating. I think the reason so many hard climbs get on a classic list (read "Favorite Routes" thread) is because varied terrain and mental difficultly make the experience and reward deeper. 5) It is not a certain success, it requires some work, skill and perhaps chance to complete Climbing is about challenge, and classic routes are usually challenging routes. Whether your success is weather dependent like Rainier, or technical-ability dependent like NW Butress of Slesse, I believe the uncertainty in climbing a classic route can be very satisfying. Accordingly, its no surprise that some of the following routes are classics in the Cascades: * N Ridge of Stuart. Despite its "trade route" reputation, a bivy high on the N Ridge and the entire experience are really magical. * Challenger. A casual glacier route, but an unforgettable setting and remote enough to be far from the maddening crowd. * Liberty Ridge. A pure line up a big mountain, with lots of big mountain expereince waiting for you! Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 12-05-2000).]
  25. Mr GoodTime, Edge and others... Put your money where your mouth is. I don't see *you* listing your fav's, yet you criticize others for the ones they list?? Gimme a break. Testosterone or no, climbing for the wrong reasons or no, if you don't agree with the thread, start a new one, but don't bust on people's choices just because you find them "wrong" for some reason. At least contribute something positive to the discussion...here's mine: trad rock: Great Northern Slab at Index, the finest most enjoyable moderate around. sport rock: Online, Static Point aid: some freaky stuff I've done at index best left unmentioned alpine rock: Probably a toss-up between N Ridge of Stuart and Serpentine Arete alpine mixed: mmm, Triple Couloirs, although SW Couloir of Early Winters is aesthetically very pleasing, just too damn short snow slog: Lib Ridge Classics, and what makes them classic, seems to be a seperate discussion (and an interesting one), so maybe we should start a thread on that... Alex [This message has been edited by Alex (edited 12-04-2000).]
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