Alex

those are all pretty sick times (all of you), but I've sailed to Tahiti probably faster than any of you ever will! Probably the fastest I've gone in the mountains are Direct East Buttress in around 3 hours, and NE Buttress of Slesse with Jens Klubberud, which was very fast climbing between the both of us. I think I'm not a very speedy climber in general though, so some of the times you are listing seem unattainable to me in my normal state of fitness or employment

I love some people think just because their group is smaller or more experienced, they somehow have dibs or rights, or a place to complain. Or that that some arbitrary group size is "too big". 6? 20? Or that guided groups guided by a "pro" somehow have some kind of entitlement over guided groups guided by "amateurs". Give me a freakin' break. This is Smith Rock, and there are precious few places to climb in Oregon let alone moderate practice routes at Smith where someone could actually learn. But not only that, this happens every day at any large well known crag: Gunks on a weekend anyone? You're only save there is to keep walkin'. Red Rocks Gallery? Wait in line. JTree? Wait in line or man up and lead the scary shit. I would like to see these newbie climbers have a great, positive experience at Smith, facilitated by safe, experienced climbers - both the climbers leading the group and the climbers around them who were encouraging them - than not...

I think the title of this post should rather read "I was late..". The other climbers did nothing wrong here, they just got up earlier than you. Smith is a very large place. Coulda gone to the Marsupial crag or the Gorge or something that isn't as popular.

you know if the weather sux for hood it is 99.7% likely to suck for st Helens as well. just sayin'.

dude, there is no shame in learning to ski and yard saleing all over the bunny slope, that's what the mightly Summit at Snoqualmie is for! I'll be there with my two budding alpinists all winter again this year! everyone who skis had to learn, and everyone who learned fell a lot at one time or another! What you really don't want to do is go backcountry skiing with poor skillz and either get injured far from the car, or die in an avalanche, those are just poor form.

skis and snowboards suffer equally on hard avi debris you can make up whatever contrived examples you want to support your arguments, but fact is that either splitboard OR skis are going to be way more efficient than snowshoes so the long term goal should be some form of sliding. Stay focused I think one other thing that deserves to be said is invest in a beacon if you don't have one

lambone! great pics, looks like a great adventure!

I'd echo what most posters are saying, to reinforce you making the correct decision: learn to ski, and on the proper gear. Climbing boots are not the proper gear. I've been skiing since I was 4. I used to think I was a hardman skiing around on 404s in my Nepal Tops; because I've been skiing long enough, I could actually do it without wiping out ALL the time. But I still wiped out regularly. I just didn't know any better. Then I borrowed a buddy's Dynafit setup for one weekend. Trying to learn in plastics with 404s and without buying a ski ticket and a lesson might be somewhat cheaper, but its a great way to get injured for the rest of the year. The modern randonee boots with their thermal-moulded linings, lockable ankles/cuffs, nice walking rocker to the sole, and great plastics are far superior to most climbing boots these days for long days in the mountains and snow. You don't have to go Dynafit, you can get any good setup, it will just be a little heavier. Buy some night tickets or better yet a night pass to the Summit, focus on becoming an adept in-bounds skier on your decent rando setup this season, and you'll never look back. Alot of the winter climbing routes in the cascades have now also been skied, just goes to show how much mileage you're going to get with the right skilz. Climb up, ski down.

forecast is epic through the weekend for this kind of early season actshun. unleash the hounds.

nice

up to several feet on the plateau, as of Sun/Mon

The approach from the west is very long, undulating except for the last climb from Rainy Pass to Wa Pass. The approach from the east is pretty much uphill from town (Mazama) but over a fair number of avalanche debris fields that usually cover the road in a number of places all the way to Wa Pass, so YMMV with regards to how many time you have to hike But, bottom line: these are roads. Their grades are not very steep compared to real ski terrain.

Coming from Diablo it's only going to be lonesome during the week, maybe. It's very well frequented by snowmobiles et al during the winter. Washington Pass tends to be buzzing with them all winter.

going to be hard to get something other than ramer plates or some other junk for 2 digits. it your super lucky youll find a good pair of used 404s or something, hope you do, good luck

thanks for your effort Darin, I will def go in and do it, as the position is amazing on that peak, and skipping the bottom junky pitches is also good

nice

squamish

ice floss. its just tough to rap on without a prussik knot

My crampons didn't poke a hole in the raft. We launched at the wrong spot in the dark, and capsized. It was a very dangerous situation that turned out fine. Still think about it often. The interesting irony is that while I am not a V4 climber, I and that same partner from the raft simul solo'ed NE ridge of Black without trouble some years back; the route is very exposed, I'm not surprised folks had trouble with it. That same partner(!) climbed W Ridge of Stuart with me in 13 hours easy car to car jaunt as well, and then did a forced bivy on it some years later with a different partner. I think it's really a YMMV thing, even very experienced people make mistakes, even when you've done the route before!

awesome

I've been up Quien Sabe in mid Sept, we end-ran around it without too much trouble, though it was quite large.

gene, no, most of the climb is a hike even more laid back than the first half of e ridge of edith cavell. but its clean and one can motor pretty quick.

Well that's a relief!

That's the final pitch, yes. But the route I've taken is straight above the climbers head, not the thing to the left. It's like a single-move chimney thing, and you flop out onto a huge fat ledge not far from the summit block. It might not feel moderate with a pack & tired, on but by the time you are standing there, it doesn't much matter any more right?

I hate to chestbeat or trivialize or anything, but last time I climbed the Tooth I placed 1 piece (a cam) on the entire route. The final pitch now actually has a small collection of fixed gear, which is easily clipped with some alpine draws. You shouldn't need much pro...