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DPS

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    Objectives in late May

    in Newbies

    Posted

    On 4/13/2023 at 10:23 AM, Syasinski said:

    Hey all!  Two of us are planning a trip to the North Cascades from Canmore, Ab area May 15-30. We are keen to climb some alpine routes (glacier travel, snow, ice, rock, etc.) and curious what objectives would be realistic goals for late May of this year (2023) given the snowpack.  Some examples of areas we are considering include Washington Pass (early winter spires, liberty bell) or Stephen Mather WA (eldorado, forbidden) and of course the Stuart range.  Happy to exchange seasonal beta for the Rockies! Thank you for any input.

    Given the amount of snow and your timeframe, I suggest snow/ice climbs. These are all conditions dependent, all are avalanche prone. The Washington Pass routes are typically best done as soon after the pass opens as possible. Some ideas:

    Washington Pass:

    - Early Winters Couloir (Couloir between east faces of North and South Early Winters Couloir

    - West Face of Silver Star Peak

    - East Face Couloir of Cuthroat

    - Southwest Gulley of South Early Winters Couloir

    - North Face of Greybeard

    Stuart Range:

    - North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck

    - NE Couloir on Argonaut

    - Stuart Glacier Couloir on Mt Stuart

    - West Face Couloir on Mt. Stuart

    - NE Couloir to East Ridge of Sherpa

    Cascade Pass:

    - NW Ice Couloir on Eldorado

    - Cascade-Johannesberg Couloir to East Face of Johannesberg Peak

    - West Face of Sahale Peak

    - North Face of Mt Buckner

     

    WA/OR Ice Conditions 2022-2023

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted

    On 1/4/2023 at 11:18 AM, CascadeClimber said:

    Does anyone know if Alex is still around the area? I saw him a few times with Summer on the Cable Line maybe 4-5 years ago, but nothing since.

    Hi Loren,

    Alex is still in Bellevue. He hasn't been climbing much lately, been sailing more. He was heading to the Rockies with one of his boys last month though. Wanted me to join, but I couldn't.

    Dan

    Denali 2022

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted · Edited by DPS

    You presented some seriously bad information in your blog post, just straight up wrong. You should not be giving any kind of advice on climbing. Guides were snapping at you because you were doing something stupid. I also take umbrage of your description of guides. The guides I know want to give their guests the best possible experience, not just take their guests' money. 

    "Another significant reason I would not do it guided is that their priority is not to get you to the summit safely. ... if a guide happens to be doing multiple trips in a season, their priority may be to get their next group started and your trip over with. Meaning they need to get your team off of the mountain so that they can start their next group of clients and take their money."

    • LMAO 1

    Mt Borah in late Fall?

    in Idaho

    Posted

    Hi Dane!

    I am in Boise now and I have been trying to find out the same thing. There is very little information avaliable on alpine climbing in Idaho, especially in the winter. I have been chatting with a guy who has climbed it fall/winter, and aparently avalaches are a big concern, but if conditions are safe then the face should go. If you are looking for a partner hit me up. I am gainfully unemployed and have a flexible schedule.

     

    Dan

    Zig Zag, Mt. Erie, Pitch 2 retrobolted

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    On 9/4/2021 at 9:13 AM, dberdinka said:

    This summer Zigzag, the boat launch wall at Larrabee and a very good route in the Twin Sisters have all been retro bolted.  I would assume by three different parties.   

    I’d say it’s a general and growing trend.  Drills are cheap and good.   Being a route developer is in vogue, rock is a limited resource and our general cultural illness of “don’t tell me what to do”  continues to grow.    

     Expect to see a lot more of this in the near future.

    I remember when the Boat Launch wall was retrobolted in the early 90's, replacing the old 1/4" bolts with 3/8" bolts. Were additional bolts added or the 25+ year old bolts replaced?

    Seeking: Cheap hexes and tricams

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted · Edited by DPS

    I'll never give up my hexes, but I have some Tricams that I would be happy to unload. I have pink, red, and brown available. I've carried them a few times but only placed each one maybe once or twice. The slings are in good shape and they have been stored in a sealed plastic bin. Email daniel-p-smith@hotmail.com if interested.

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